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Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern

Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern
4.6★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
2.0K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

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Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern teaches you how to crochet a 20-inch Summer Horse amigurumi with a soft mane, flowing tail, and floral embellishments. It uses medium weight yarn and works mostly in continuous rounds for smooth shaping. The instructions include tips for poly-pellet weighting in the hooves, placement photos, and optional hot glue techniques for finishing.

Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Youll make the head, neck, body, four legs, ears, mane, tail, and flowers with step-by-step rounds and clear assembly notes. Helpful photo references are provided for correct placement of eyes, mane sections, and floral decorations.

Why You'll Love This Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it turns simple stitches into a sweet, full-bodied horse with personality. I take joy in the way the braided-looking mane and layered tail add movement and charm. The pattern lets me be creative with colors for the roses and mane while still following structured rounds for consistent shaping. I also appreciate that the design includes placement tips and photo references — it makes assembly and finishing so much more satisfying.

Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how versatile this pattern is for custom colors — swap the body color for a chestnut, grey, or even a pastel to create a very different personality for your horse.

If you want a smaller or larger horse change yarn weight and hook size: a bulkier yarn with a larger hook will give you a chunky, cuddly version, while thinner yarn will make a smaller, more delicate toy.

I often experiment with different eye sizes or replace safety eyes with embroidered eyes for a softer, child-friendly finish.

Try different mane and tail colors or ombre effects by alternating two skeins as you make the strips to give a natural highlight look.

You can add wire to the neck or legs for a posable design; insert it carefully ahead of stuffing for flexibility and safety considerations.

For a festive twist, crochet tiny accessories like a saddle, blanket, or ribboned bridle and sew them on for seasonal gifts.

Embellish with different flower styles: use felt flowers, embroidered blossoms, or larger layered roses to vary the final look.

Adjust the length and number of mane/tail strips to create a fuller or sleeker style depending on whether you like a voluminous mane or a tidy one.

I sometimes change the hooves to match the mane color for a two-tone effect, or make the hoof cuffs taller by extending the ivory rounds before changing to body color.

Mix yarn textures for contrast — pair a soft acrylic body yarn with a slightly fuzzy or boucle yarn for the mane to add tactile interest and a different visual effect.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Not using a stitch marker during continuous rounds can make it hard to know where the round starts; place and move a marker at the start of every round to stay on track. ✗ Forgetting to insert poly-pellet beads into the nylon stocking for the hooves can leave the horse unstable; follow the poly-pellet stuffing instructions and secure the stocking to keep the horse balanced. ✗ Overstuffing early in shaping can distort the silhouette and make later decreases difficult; stuff gradually and firmly but add final stuffing just before closing. ✗ Skipping the instruction to crochet into the back bump of the starting chain for mane and tail strips results in a messy edge; always work into the back bump to create a clean edge for joining. ✗ Pulling decreases too tightly when shaping the head or body can create puckering or gaps; use a consistent, moderate tension and consider the invisible decrease method recommended in the pattern.

Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern

Create a charming, 20-inch Summer Horse amigurumi with this detailed intermediate crochet pattern. Youll follow clear round-by-round instructions to make the head, body, legs, ears, mane, tail, flowers and leaves. This pattern includes helpful assembly tips and photo references so you can position features and embellishments with confidence. Perfect for gifting or display — make a beautiful handmade companion for home or play.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Medium Weight (4) yarn - Body Color (approx. 10 oz)
  • 02
    Medium Weight (4) yarn - Mane/Tail Color (approx. 7 oz)
  • 03
    Medium Weight (4) yarn - Ivory or White Color (amount for nose strip and hoof cuff)
  • 04
    Medium Weight (4) yarn - Hoof Color (small amount)
  • 05
    Medium Weight (4) yarn - 3 colors for the roses (small amounts each)
  • 06
    Medium Weight (4) yarn - Leaf Color (small amount)
  • 07
    I used Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn colors: Toasted Almond, Linen, Ivory, Brown, Mango, Lt. Peach, Buttercup, Mid Green

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 3.75 mm
  • 02
    Tapestry needle for sewing
  • 03
    Stitch marker
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Poly pellet beads (or substitute rice) and nylon stocking to hold beads
  • 06
    PolyFiber filling
  • 07
    Hot glue gun (optional) for attaching eyes and some pieces
  • 08
    24mm safety eyes (or your preferred eye size)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Round 1 :

MR, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(sc 2, 3 sc in next) x 4 (20)

Round 4 :

sc 3, 3 sc in next, (sc 4, 3 sc in next) x 3, sc (28)

Round 5 :

sc 4, 3 sc in next, (sc 6, 3 sc in next) x 3, sc 2 (36)

Round 6-10 :

sc around, 5 rnds (36)

Round 11 :

sc 24, (inc, sc 2) x 4 (40)

Round 12 :

sc around (40)

Round 13 :

sc 25, (inc, sc 2) x 4, sc 3 (44)

Round 14 :

sc around (44)

Round 15 :

sc 6, (inc, sc) x 5, inc, sc 12, inc x 3, sc 2, inc x 4, sc 6 (57)

Round 16-21 :

sc around, 6rnds (57)

Round 22 :

sc 40, (inc, sc 4) x 3, sc 2 (60)

Round 23-25 :

sc around, 3 rnds (60)

Round 26 :

(sc 3, dec) x 8, sc 15, dec, sc 3 (51)

Round 27 :

sc 30, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 9, dec (48)

Round 28 :

(sc 6, dec) x 6 (42)

Round 29 :

(sc 5, dec) x 6 (36)

Round 30 :

(sc 4, dec) x 6 (30)

Round 31 :

(sc 3, dec) x 6 (24)

Info :

Start Stuffing. I used hot glue to attach the eyes after I closed the head, if you'd rather use the safety backs for the eyes, you can follow the instructions for the eyes now.*see below

Round 32 :

(sc 2, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 33 :

(sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 34 :

dec x 6 (6)

Info :

Finish Off.

Info :

Eye Instructions: To make the divots for the eyes to sit in - Take a piece of yarn (I used crochet thread so you can see it better) and thread it through the head between rnds 17 & 18 and approx 25 sts apart. Thread the yarn back through the head so that you 'grab a stitch'. Make sure the tail comes out in a way so that you will be able to tie a knot around a stitch on the other side and pull on the yarn until you form the divots on both sides. Knot the ends a couple more times & hide the ends inside the head. I used hot glue to secure the eyes in the divots.

— Ears :

Round 1 :

MR, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

(sc 2, inc) x 2 (8)

Round 3 :

(sc 3, inc) x 2 (10)

Round 4 :

sc around (10)

Round 5 :

(inc x 2, sc 3) x 2 (14)

Round 6 :

sc, inc x 2, sc 5, inc x 2, sc 4 (18)

Round 7 :

sc 2, inc x 2, sc 7, inc x 2, sc 5 (22)

Round 8-10 :

sc around, 3 rnds (22)

Round 11 :

sc 2, dec x 2, sc 7, dec x 2, sc 5 (18)

Round 12 :

sc, dec x 2, sc 5, dec x 2, sc 4 (14)

Info :

Sc 2 more times to get to the edge of the ear and ch 1, hold the bottom edges together, make 7 sc through both sides to close the opening. Finish off, leaving a long tail. Pinch the bottom of the ear together and make a few sts to secure. Sew the ears to the head at approx. rnds 25-27. *See photo on page 4 for reference.

— Nose Strip :

Info :

With Ivory~ Ch 9, starting in second ch from the hook-

Round 1-2 :

sc across, ch 1 & turn (8)

Round 3 :

sc across (8)

Info :

Finish Off, leaving a long tail. Sew the strip to the middle of the horse's nose.

— Neck :

Info :

Start with a long beginning tail, you will use this to sew the head to the neck. Ch 36, slst into the first ch to join, ch 1

Round 1-2 :

sc around, 2 rnds (36)

Round 3 :

sc 10, (inc, sc 2) x 6, sc 8 (42)

Round 4-5 :

sc around, 2 rnds (42)

Round 6 :

sc 18, (inc, sc 2) x 3, sc 15 (45)

Round 7 :

sc around (45)

Round 8 :

sc 17, inc, sc 3, (inc, sc 2) x 2, (inc, sc 3) x 2, sc 10 (50)

Round 9-12 :

sc around, 4 rnds (50)

Round 13 :

(sc 2, inc) x 4, sc 12, (inc, sc 2) x 4, sc 10, inc, sc 2, inc (60)

Round 14 :

sc around (60)

Round 15 :

sc 25, (dec, sc 2) x 5, sc 15 (55)

Info :

Finish Off, leaving a long tail.

— Body :

Round 1 :

MR, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(sc 2, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(sc 3, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(sc 4, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(sc 5, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(sc 6, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

(sc 7, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

(sc 8, inc) x 6 (60)

Round 11-38 :

sc around, 28 rnds (60)

Round 39 :

(sc 8, dec) x 6 (54)

Round 40 :

(sc 7, dec) x 6 (48)

Round 41 :

(sc 6, dec) x 6 (42)

Round 42 :

(sc 5, dec) x 6 (36)

Round 43 :

(sc 4, dec) x 6 (30)

Round 44 :

(sc 3, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 45 :

(sc 2, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 46 :

(sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 47 :

dec x 6 (6)

Info :

Finish Off.

Info :

Assembly: Place the front of the neck at approx. rnd 4 of the body, the back of the neck will reach to approx. rnd 23. Stuff the neck firmly, then sew the head to the top of the neck. I sewed the head at an angle so it looks like the horse is looking off to the side but you can sew it straight on, or however you like. Add additional stuffing before closing up the last few stitches to make sure the neck is nice and firm and can support the head.

— Legs :

Info :

The bottom portion of all the legs will be made the same, however, each leg will have different instructions towards the top. Each leg will have a partial 'flap' at the top which will be sewn up onto the sides of the body, while the rest of the leg is sewn to the bottom of the horse. This helps with placement and the look of the legs.

— Right Front Leg (Start with Hoof Color) :

Round 1 :

MR, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(sc 2, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(sc 3, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(sc 4, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

BLO, sc 10, (inc, sc 2) x 6, sc 8 (42)

Round 8-9 :

sc around, 2 rnds (42)

Round 10 :

sc 10, (dec, sc 2) x 6, sc 8 (36)

Round 11 :

sc around (36)

Info :

Change to Ivory

Round 12 :

sc 11, (dec, sc 2) x 4, sc 9 (32)

Round 13-14 :

sc around, 2 rnds (32)

Round 15 :

sc 12, (dec, sc 2) x 3, sc 8 (29)

Round 16 :

sc around (29)

Info :

Insert nylon with poly-pellets *see page 3

Round 17 :

sc 10, (dec, sc 2) x 3, sc 7 (26)

Round 18 :

sc around (26)

Round 19 :

sc 11, dec x4, sc 7 (22)

Round 20 :

sc around (22)

Info :

Change to Body Color

Round 21-24 :

sc around, 4 rnds (22)

Round 25 :

sc, inc x 2, sc 10, inc x 3, sc 6 (27)

Round 26-30 :

sc around, 5 rnds (27)

Round 31 :

sc 4, inc x 2, sc 11, inc x 3, sc 7 (32)

Round 32-37 :

sc around, 6 rnds (32)

Info :

Here is where we will begin working back & forth to create the flap.

Row 38 :

sc 5, ch 1 & turn, hdc in same st as ch & in the next 16 (17) ch 1 & turn

Row 39 :

hdc 17, ch 1 & turn (17)

Row 40 :

hdc 3, dc 11, hdc 3 (17)

Info :

Finish Off , leaving a long tail. Make sure the leg is stuffed firmly so it can support the body.

— Left Front Leg :

Info :

Follow the same instructions as the right front leg through rnd 37

Row 38 :

sc 10, hdc 17, ch 1 & turn

Row 39 :

hdc in same as ch & in the next 16, ch 1, turn (17)

Row 40 :

hdc 3, dc 11, hdc 3 (17)

Info :

Finish Off, leaving a long tail. Stuff firmly.

— Right Rear Leg :

Info :

Follow the same instructions as right front leg through rnd 33

Round 34 :

sc 6, inc x 2, sc 15, inc x 3, sc 6 (37)

Round 35 :

sc around (37)

Round 36 :

sc 8, inc x 3, sc 26 (40)

Round 37 :

sc around (40)

Row 38 :

sc 20, ch 1 & turn, hdc in same as ch & in next 24, ch 1, turn

Row 39 :

hdc 25 (25) ch 2 & turn

Row 40 :

dc in same as ch & in the next 17, hdc 7 (25) ch 1 & turn

Row 41 :

sc 7, hdc 18 (25) ch 1 & turn

Row 42 :

sc 6, hdc 12, sc 7 (25)

Info :

Finish Off, leaving a long tail. Stuff Firmly.

— Left Rear Leg :

Info :

Follow the same instructions as the Right REAR Leg through rnd 37

Row 38 :

sc 32, ch 1 & turn, hdc in same as ch & in next 24 (25) ch 1 & turn

Row 39 :

hdc 25 (25) ch 1 & turn

Row 40 :

hdc 7, dc 18 (25) ch 1 & turn

Row 41 :

hdc 18, sc 7 (25) ch 1 & turn

Row 42 :

sc 7, hdc 12, sc 6 (25)

Info :

Finish Off, leaving a long tail. Stuff Firmly.

Info :

Assembly: Sew the legs to the body, add stuffing before closing up the last few stitches to insure the bottom of the legs are firm. Add some lighter stuffing to fill in the flap area, making sure the stuffing doesn't pull gaps in the hdc/dc stitches.

— Mane & Tail :

Info :

The mane and tail are made up of 2 strips that are joined together at the top, forming what we will refer to as a 'Section'. Each strip begins with a starting ch. You will start by working in the 2nd chain from the hook and sc into the back bumps of the starting ch *See page 3. You will work a total of 3 rows of sc, then, without finishing off, begin a new starting ch for the second strip. After working 3 rows of sc on the second strip, you ch 1, fold the strips together and sc across the top to join, forming a Section.

Info :

I will write out the instructions for the first Section, then you will repeat the same technique for each section, changing only the length of the chains. You will have a total of 3 separate sections and 1 individual strip for the part of the mane that goes between the ears. *see photo on next page for placement.

— Front mane - Section 1 :

Info :

With Mane/Tail Color~ Ch 42, starting in 2nd ch from the hook & working in back bump-

Row 1-2 :

sc across, Ch 1 & turn (41)

Row 3 :

sc across

Info :

Ch 36

Row 1-2 :

sc across, ch 1 & turn (35)

Row 3 :

sc across

Info :

Ch 1 and fold the 2 strips together, sc across to join. Finish Off, leaving a long tail. This section will go next to the inside of the left ear.

Info :

Front mane - Section 2: Strip 1: ch 21; Strip 2: ch 31. This goes next to Section 1, in the middle.

Info :

Front mane - Section 3: Strip 1: ch 42; Strip 2: ch 26. This section is sewn directly behind Section 2 and lays over the top of Section 2. Now, we will make a single strip that is 31 ch long. This piece goes next to the right ear and is angled so it lays across the other sections. *see picture on page 10 for a different angle.

Info :

Side mane - Next, we will make the part of the mane that goes down the back of the horse's head and neck. For this piece I made 5 continuous sections. I made 2 strips and joined them together but instead of finishing off, I made the next starting ch, making my next 2 strips and joined those 2 strips together and so on. You will have 5 sections total that are all connected. Then I just single crocheted across the top of all five sections for a cleaner look and to make the piece easier to attach. Every strip will start with a ch of 58. Sew the Mane down the middle of the back of the horse's head and neck.

Info :

For the tail we will make 2 continuous sections (total of 4 strips). After single crocheting across the top of the 2nd section, ch 1, fold one section over the top of the other and sc across the top to join. (you'll have 4 strips stacked one on top of the other)

Info :

Tail - Section 1: Strip 1: Ch 55; Strip 2: ch 61

Info :

Tail - Section 2: Strip 1: ch 57; Strip 2: ch 64

Info :

Fold the 2 sections together and sc across the top (there will be 4 strips layered). Finish off, leaving a long tail. Repeat these instructions 2 more times so that you have a total of 3 pieces with 2 sections each. Sew the first piece to approx. rnd 38 of the horse's body. Sew the next 2 pieces directly above the first.

— Flowers & Leaves :

Info :

I made 3 roses in each color and 3 rosebuds in each color. I also made 7 leaves. You can make as many flowers and leaves as you wish, adding some to the tail as well if you like.

Rose :

Ch 27, 3hdc in 2nd ch from the hook, slst, (3hdc in next st, slst) x 12 Finish off, leaving a long tail. Roll the petals into a rose shape and secure with a few stitches through the bottom.

Rosebud :

ch 18, dc in 3rd ch from the hook & in the next 15. Finish off, leaving a long tail. Roll up and secure with a few stitches through the bottom.

Leaf :

Leave a long starting tail for sewing the leaves to the roses: Ch 8, starting in 2nd ch from the hook, slst, sc, hdc, dc 3, 5 dc in next st, (Now begin working down the opposite side of the ch) dc 3, hdc, sc, slst, ch 2, slst into the first slst on side 1. Finish Off.

Info :

Reference photos on the next page for placement of the flowers.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the neck to the body: place the front of the neck at approximately round 4 of the body and the back of the neck to approximately round 23, stuff the neck firmly, then sew the head to the top of the neck with the long beginning tail.
  • Sew the ears to the head at approximately rounds 25-27, pinning and adjusting for symmetry before securing with stitches.
  • Sew the legs to the bottom of the body, adding stuffing before closing the last few stitches to ensure the bottoms of the legs are firm; sew the flap portion to the sides of the body for placement.
  • Insert nylon stocking filled with poly-pellet beads into the hooves before closing the hooves to help the horse stand balanced and upright.
  • Position mane and tail sections using the photos as reference; sew the mane down the middle of the back of the head and neck and attach tail sections at approximately round 38 on the body.
  • Attach roses, rosebuds and leaves by sewing through the base with the long tails and secure; use hot glue optionally for extra hold on embellishments and the white nose strip.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning of each round when working in continuous rounds.
  • 💡Insert poly-pellet beads in a nylon stocking for the hooves to help the horse stand; tie and trim the stocking before sewing into the hoof.
  • 💡Stuff firmly but gradually; add final stuffing just before closing to avoid lumps and to maintain proper shaping.
  • 💡Work into the back bump of the starting chain for the mane and tail strips to create a clean edge for joining.
  • 💡Hot glue can be used in place of sewing for some small pieces, but leave long tails if you prefer to sew.

This Summer Horse is a delightful project that turns medium-weight yarn into a soft, standable friend with braided-looking mane and layered tail. Make roses and leaves to give your horse a fresh, seasonal look and personalize colors to match your decor. Whether you gift it or keep it, this pretty amigurumi will brighten any room and make a thoughtful handmade keepsake. 🧶🌸🧵

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The horse measures approximately 20 inches tall when using medium weight (#4) yarn and a 3.75 mm hook as recommended in the pattern.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can substitute yarn weights, but the finished size and required hook will change. Use an appropriate hook size for your chosen yarn and expect size variations.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of single crochet, increases, decreases, working in rounds, and reading round counts is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 8-10 hours, though time may vary depending on experience, customization, and assembly choices.

How do I make the hooves stable so the horse stands?

Fill a small section of nylon stocking with poly-pellets (or rice), tie securely, trim the excess and insert into the hooves before finishing the leg. This adds weight and stability.