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DRAGOBRAT girls' cardigan Pattern

DRAGOBRAT girls' cardigan Pattern
4.3★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
2.9K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

👕

Casual Chic

Relaxed style with a modern twist, perfect for everyday wear while maintaining that handcrafted uniqueness.

About This DRAGOBRAT girls' cardigan Pattern

This pattern creates a beautiful girls' cardigan worked seamlessly from the neck down with a circular yoke and cable lace detail. The design transitions into stockinette stitch for a clean, wearable body and uses increases along the sides to create a gentle A-line shape. The pattern includes charts for the yoke, clear instructions for sleeve division, and button band finishing.

DRAGOBRAT girls' cardigan Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Detailed stitch definitions and abbreviated charts are provided for clarity and ease of use. Suitable for knitters comfortable with cable techniques, short rows, and working in the round.

Why You'll Love This DRAGOBRAT girls' cardigan Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because the yoke cables create a gorgeous, wearable motif that feels special but not fussy. I enjoy how the design combines thoughtful shaping with practical finishing—so it looks polished on every size. The neck-down construction is satisfying to knit because you can try it on as you go and shape the length to preference. The charts make the lace repeat easy to follow, and the finished cardigan is both cozy and elegant.

DRAGOBRAT girls' cardigan Pattern step 1 - construction progress DRAGOBRAT girls' cardigan Pattern step 2 - assembly progress DRAGOBRAT girls' cardigan Pattern step 3 - details and accessories DRAGOBRAT girls' cardigan Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how adaptable this pattern is for customization—switching the yarn to a different fiber gives you a completely different feel, like a softer alpaca blend for warmth or a cotton sport for spring wear.

To make a smaller or larger cardigan, choose a thinner or thicker yarn and adjust needles to maintain gauge. Using bulky yarn and larger needles will create a cozy, oversized look, while a finer yarn will give a daintier result.

I often play with color: try a contrast color for the button bands or a subtle heather for the yoke to make the cable pattern pop. A two-color yoke is especially striking if you use a main and a contrast color.

Consider adding thumbholes to the cuffs or lengthening the body by a few centimeters for extra coverage—just measure as you go and try on the garment where possible.

For a more modern twist, swap the round buttons for a zipper or decorative toggles, or replace the ribbed button band with a garter-stitch band for a different edge finish.

I sometimes add decorative embroidered motifs on the lower front or near the hem for a personal touch; simple surface embroidery or duplicate stitch works well on stockinette.

If you want more structure, pick up stitches and knit a facing instead of binding off the rib so the front sits flat; this is a nice option for larger sizes and heavier yarns.

I also recommend experimenting with a subtle slipped-stitch color pattern down the body panels to echo the yoke texture—this ties the design together beautifully.

For gift-making, I adjust the sleeve length to grow-with-child size by adding a few centimeters to the body and leaving the sleeves intentionally shorter so they can be easily cuffed and then grown into.

Finally, if you enjoy making sets, create a matching hat or mitts using elements of the yoke cable to tie the whole look together; I find small accessories make lovely coordinated gifts.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Not checking gauge before starting can result in a cardigan that is too large or too small; knit a 10x10 cm swatch in stockinette on the recommended needle sizes and block it to match the gauge. ✗ Misplacing markers during the yoke and sleeve division will confuse counting and placement; place and double-check markers M1–M4 and BoR markers after every major change to keep sections accurate. ✗ Forgetting to change needle size when instructed will alter fabric density and size; switch to the indicated needle sizes (2.5 mm/3.0 mm) exactly where the pattern specifies. ✗ Working short rows without tightening the double stitch can create gaps in the back neck; tighten the working yarn so the double stitch sits neatly on the needle with two legs visible and continue in pattern. ✗ Skipping the recommended blocking step makes it hard to get the intended drape and stitch definition; moisten and block the cardigan on a flat surface, pinning it to measurements and allowing it to dry fully.

DRAGOBRAT girls' cardigan Pattern

This elegant girls' cardigan is worked from the neck down with a circular yoke featuring a delicate cable lace pattern that flows into smooth stockinette fabric. The A-line shaping and thoughtful button band make it both stylish and comfortable to wear. You will enjoy the clear charts and step-by-step instructions as you create a timeless, handcrafted piece for a special child.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for DRAGOBRAT girls' cardigan Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Plucky Knitter - Traveler Sport (297 m / 105 g [325 yds / 3.5 oz]); 65% merino wool, 20% silk, 15% yak
  • 02
    Total yarn amount needed by size: 12 mos - 150 g [5.3 oz]; 18–24 mos - 190 g [6.7 oz]; 3 yrs - 210 g [7.4 oz]; 4 yrs - 250 g [8.8 oz]; 5 yrs - 290 g [10.2 oz]; 6–7 yrs - 310 g [10.9 oz]; 8–9 yrs - 330 g [11.6 oz]; 10–12 yrs - 350 g [12.3 oz]; 12–14 yrs - 370 g [13.0 oz]

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Circular knitting needles 2.5 mm [US1.5]
  • 02
    Circular knitting needles 3.0 mm [US2.5]
  • 03
    Alternative appropriate needle sizes to obtain gauge
  • 04
    Cable needle
  • 05
    Stitch markers
  • 06
    Stitch holder
  • 07
    Spare circular or extra cords or a piece of auxiliary yarn for holding sleeve stitches
  • 08
    Tapestry needle
  • 09
    Buttons about 13 mm [0.5 in] diameter
  • 10
    Pins for blocking
  • 11
    Measuring tape

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— Overview :

Info :

“Dragobrat” girls’ cardigan is worked from the neck down completely seamless. The circular yoke features a cable pattern that seamlessly transitions into the stockinette stitch in which the body of the cardigan is worked. Increases at the sides create the A-line shape of the garment.

— Sizes :

Info :

Sizes: 12 mos; 18 – 24 mos; 3 yrs (4 yrs; 5 yrs; 6 – 7 yrs) (8 – 9 yrs; 10 – 12 yrs; 12 – 14 yrs) in the indicated order.

— Needles and Materials :

Info :

Plucky Knitter – Traveler Sport (297 m/105 g [325 yds / 3.5 oz]; 65% merino wool, 20% silk, 15% yak). Circular knitting needles 2.5 and 3 mm [US1.5 and US2.5] or other appropriate size to obtain gauge; stitch markers, stitch holder, spare circular, extra cords or a piece of auxiliary yarn, tapestry needle; buttons, about 13 mm [0.5 in] diameter; cable needle.

— Yarn Amounts Table :

Info :

12 mos: chest circumference 50.0 cm [19.7], total yarn amount needed 150 g [5.3]. 18–24 mos: chest 52.0 cm [20.5], 190 g [6.7]. 3 yrs: 56.0 cm [22.0], 210 g [7.4]. 4 yrs: 58.0 cm [22.8], 250 g [8.8]. 5 yrs: 61.0 cm [24.0], 290 g [10.2]. 6–7 yrs: 64.0 cm [25.2], 310 g [10.9]. 8–9 yrs: 66.0 cm [26.0], 330 g [11.6]. 10–12 yrs: 72.0 cm [28.3], 350 g [12.3]. 12–14 yrs: 80.0 cm [31.5], 370 g [13.0].

— Gauge :

Info :

25 sts and 36 rows/rounds = 10x10 cm [4x4 in], in stockinette stitch, on 3.00 mm [US2.5] needles, after blocking and stretched.

— Stitch Definitions :

Info :

Stockinette stitch (st st) – in back-and-forth rows with turning: knit on right side, purl on wrong side. In rounds: knit all stitches in all rounds. Reverse stockinette stitch (rev st st): in back-and-forth rows with turning: purl on right side, knit on wrong side. In rounds: purl all stitches in all rounds. RLI = right-leaning lifted increase: insert right needle into stitch one row below next stitch and knit this additional stitch, then work next stitch as indicated. LLI = left-leaning lifted increase: insert left needle into stitch two rows below the stitch just worked, lift stitch onto left needle and knit this additional stitch, then work next stitch as indicated. ssk = slip, slip, knit: slip 2 sts individually knit-wise, return them to the left needle and knit them together through the back loop (left-leaning decrease). Yoke pattern charts: Charts indicate the order of work for the lace pattern on the circular yoke and the side lace panel inserts. The charts show both RS and WS rows. Charts are read from bottom to top and worked from right to left for RS rows, from left to right for WS rows.

— ORDER OF WORK :

Info :

This pattern contains instructions for the following sizes in the indicated order: 12 mos; 18 – 24 mos; 3 yrs (4 yrs; 5 yrs; 6 – 7 yrs) (8 – 9 yrs; 10 – 12 yrs; 12 – 14 yrs)

— Begin of work :

Info :

Using 2.5 mm [US1.5] needles and preferred cast-on method, cast on 105; 105; 133 (133; 141; 141) (141; 165; 165) sts.

— Work Set-Up Row (WS) :

Info :

Work 10 sts according to the Set-Up Row in the chart for the buttonhole band on the Right Front, k1, place marker 3, then work according to the Set-Up Row in Yoke Chart #2; 2; 2 (2; 1; 1) (1; 1; 1). Work the marked pattern repeat width-wise 3; 3; 4 (4; 5; 5) (5; 6; 6) times, place marker 2, work the marked pattern repeat width-wise 3; 3; 4 (4; 5; 5) (5; 6; 6) times, place marker 1, 10 sts according to the Set-Up Row in the chart for the button band on the Left Front.

— Work the next RS row the following way :

Info :

Work 10 sts according to the next row of the chart for the button band on the Left Front, slip marker 1 to right needle, work the marked pattern repeat width-wise 3; 3; 4 (4; 5; 5) (5; 6; 6) times, slip marker 2 to right needle, work the marked pattern repeat width-wise 3; 3; 4 (4; 5; 5) (5; 6; 6) times, slip marker 3 to right needle, p1, 10 sts according to the next chart row of the buttonhole band chart on the Right Front.

Info :

Continue in earlier established pattern. After having worked 8 rows of the Yoke chart, change to 3 mm [US2.5] needles and continue.

— After all rows of the chart have been completed :

Info :

Work 10 sts according to the next row of the chart for the button band on the Left Front, slip marker 1 to right needle, work the marked pattern repeat of Chart #5-1; 6-1; 3-1 (4-1; 7-1; 8-1) (8-1; 7-1; 7-1) width-wise 3; 3; 4 (4; 5; 5) (5; 6; 6) times, slip marker 2 to right needle, work the marked pattern repeat of Chart #5-2; 6-2; 3-2 (4-2; 7-2; 8-2) (8-2; 7-2; 7-2) width-wise 2; 2; 3 (3; 4; 4) (4; 5; 5) times, ending with the sts after the pattern repeat framed in Red, slip marker 3 to right needle, work 10 sts according to the next chart row of the buttonhole band chart on the Right Front.

Info :

Continue in established pattern to the end of the appropriate chart for the size worked.

Info :

You should now have a total of 212; 224; 252 (268; 270; 280) (280; 320; 320) sts.

— Continue in earlier established pattern :

Info :

Continue in earlier established pattern, working the button band and buttonhole band in the established pattern, and 1 purl stitch each before and after marker 2. Work a RS row in the earlier established pattern.

— In the next WS row, re-distribute sts, placing markers as follows :

Info :

Size 12 mos: 10 Right Front (buttonhole) Band sts, slip marker 3 to right needle, 25 sts in established pattern, place marker M4 (Right Front), p42, place marker M3 (Right Sleeve), 58 sts in established pattern, place marker M2 (Back), p42, place marker M1 (Left Sleeve), 25 sts in established pattern (Left Front), slip marker 1 to right needle, 10 Left Front (button) Band sts.

Info :

Size 18 – 24 mos: 10 Right Front (buttonhole) Band sts, slip marker 3 to right needle, 26 sts in established pattern, place marker M4 (Right Front), p46, place marker M3 (Right Sleeve), 60 sts in established pattern, place marker M2 (Back), p46, place marker M1 (Left Sleeve), 26 sts in established pattern (Left Front), slip marker 1 to right needle, 10 Left Front (button) Band sts.

Info :

Size 3 yrs: 10 Right Front (buttonhole) Band sts, slip marker 3 to right needle, 32 sts in established pattern, place marker M4 (Right Front), p48, place marker M3 (Right Sleeve), 72 sts in established pattern, place marker M2 (Back), p48, place marker M1 (Left Sleeve), 32 sts in established pattern (Left Front), slip marker 1 to right needle, 10 Left Front (button) Band sts.

Info :

Size 4 yrs: 10 Right Front (buttonhole) Band sts, slip marker 3 to right needle, 34 sts in established pattern, place marker M4 (Right Front), p52, place marker M3 (Right Sleeve), 76 sts in established pattern, place marker M2 (Back), p52, place marker M1 (Left Sleeve), 34 sts in established pattern (Left Front), slip marker 1 to right needle, 10 Left Front (button) Band sts.

Info :

Size 5 yrs: 10 Right Front (buttonhole) Band sts, slip marker 3 to right needle, 34 sts in established pattern, place marker M4 (Right Front), p53, place marker M3 (Right Sleeve), 76 sts in established pattern, place marker M2 (Back), p53, place marker M1 (Left Sleeve), 34 sts in established pattern (Left Front), slip marker 1 to right needle, 10 Left Front (button) Band sts.

Info :

Size 6 – 7 yrs: 10 Right Front (buttonhole) Band sts, slip marker 3 to right needle, 36 sts in established pattern, place marker M4 (Right Front), p54, place marker M3 (Right Sleeve), 80 sts in established pattern, place marker M2 (Back), p54, place marker M1 (Left Sleeve), 36 sts in established pattern (Left Front), slip marker 1 to right needle, 10 Left Front (button) Band sts.

Info :

Size 8 – 9 yrs: 10 Right Front (buttonhole) Band sts, slip marker 3 to right needle, 36 sts in established pattern, place marker M4 (Right Front), p54, place marker M3 (Right Sleeve), 80 sts in established pattern, place marker M2 (Back), p54, place marker M1 (Left Sleeve), 36 sts in established pattern (Left Front), slip marker 1 to right needle, 10 Left Front (button) Band sts.

Info :

Size 10 – 12 yrs: 10 Right Front (buttonhole) Band sts, slip marker 3 to right needle, 42 sts in established pattern, place marker M4 (Right Front), p62, place marker M3 (Right Sleeve), 92 sts in established pattern, place marker M2 (Back), p62, place marker M1 (Left Sleeve), 42 sts in established pattern (Left Front), slip marker 1 to right needle, 10 Left Front (button) Band sts.

Info :

Size 12 – 14 yrs: 10 Right Front (buttonhole) Band sts, slip marker 3 to right needle, 42 sts in established pattern place marker M4 (Right Front), p62, place marker M3 (Right Sleeve), 92 sts in established pattern, place marker M2 (Back), p62, place marker M1 (Left Sleeve), 42 sts in established pattern (Left Front), slip marker 1 to right needle, 10 Left Front (button) Band sts.

— Short rows to raise the Back neck :

Next Row (RS) :

work in earlier established pattern to marker M3, slip marker M3 to right needle, k21; 23; 24 (26; 26; 27) (27; 31; 31), turn work to wrong side, slip 1 stitch purl-wise to right needle, leading the working yarn in back of the stitch, above the right needle. Tighten the working yarn so that the stitch on the right needle sits on the needle with two legs visible (Double stitch). Continue working on the wrong side of the fabric in purl. Work to marker M2, slip marker M2 to right needle, pwork 21; 23; 24 (26; 26; 27) (27; 31; 31), turn work to right side. Slip 1 stitch knit-wise to right needle, leading the working yarn in back of the stitch, above the right needle. Tighten the working yarn so that the stitch on the right needle sits on the needle with two legs visible (Double stitch). Continue working on the right side of the fabric.

Next Row 1 :

work to 5 sts before the Double stitch, turn work to wrong side, slip 1 stitch purl-wise to right needle, leading the working yarn in back of the stitch, above the right needle. Tighten the working yarn so that the stitch on the right needle sits on the needle with two legs visible (Double stitch). Continue working on the wrong side of the fabric in purl.

Row 2 :

work to 5 sts before the Double stitch, turn work to right side. Slip 1 stitch knit-wise to right needle, leading the working yarn in back of the stitch, above the right needle. Tighten the working yarn so that the stitch on the right needle sits on the needle with two legs visible (Double stitch). Continue working on the right side of the fabric. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 another 1; 1; 1 (1; 1; 2) (2; 2; 2) time(s).

Next Row 3 :

work to 3 sts before the Double stitch, turn work to wrong side, slip 1 stitch purl-wise to right needle, leading the working yarn in back of the stitch, above the right needle. Tighten the working yarn so that the stitch on the right needle sits on the needle with two legs visible (Double stitch). Continue working on the wrong side of the fabric in purl.

Row 4 :

work to 3 sts before the Double stitch, turn work to right side. Slip 1 stitch knit-wise to right needle, leading the working yarn in back of the stitch, above the right needle. Tighten the working yarn so that the stitch on the right needle sits on the needle with two legs visible (Double stitch). Continue working on the right side of the fabric. Repeat Rows 3 and 4 another 1; 1; 1 (1; 1; 2) (2; 2; 2) time(s).

Next Row 5 :

work to 2 sts before the Double stitch, turn work to wrong side, slip 1 stitch purl-wise to right needle, leading the working yarn in back of the stitch, above the right needle. Tighten the working yarn so that the stitch on the right needle sits on the needle with two legs visible (Double stitch). Continue working on the wrong side of the fabric in purl.

Row 6 :

work to 2 sts before the Double stitch, turn work to right side. Slip 1 stitch knit-wise to right needle, leading the working yarn in back of the stitch, above the right needle. Tighten the working yarn so that the stitch on the right needle sits on the needle with two legs visible (Double stitch). Continue working on the right side of the fabric. Repeat Rows 5 and 6 another 0; 0; 0 (1; 1; 2) (2; 2; 2) time(s).

Info :

Continue in earlier established pattern to end of row, knitting both legs of the Double stitch together as one. Work the next WS row in earlier established pattern, purling both legs of the Double stitch together as one.

— Continue and Sleeve division :

Info :

Continue in earlier established pattern, working the Left Front Band and the Buttonhole Band on the Right Front, and between them, stockinette stitch, until the yoke has reached a height of 16; 16; 16 (16.5; 17.5; 18) (18.5; 19; 19) cm [6.3; 6.3; 6.3 (6.5; 6.9; 7.0) (7.3; 7.5; 7.5) in] measured on the Front, then proceed with Sleeve division.

Next Row – Sleeve division (RS) :

work 10 Left Front (button) Band sts, slip marker 1 to right needle, work in earlier established pattern to marker M1, slip marker M1 to right needle, transfer the next 42; 46; 48 (52; 53; 54) (54; 62; 62) sts (Left Sleeve) to a stitch holder, piece of waste yarn or spare cord for holding, cast on 8; 8; 8 (8; 10; 10) (12; 10; 12) new underarm sts, slip marker M2 to right needle, work in earlier established pattern to marker 2, slip marker 2 to right needle, work in earlier established pattern to marker M3, slip marker M3 to right needle, transfer the next 42; 46; 48 (52; 53; 54) (54; 62; 62) sts (Right Sleeve) to a stitch holder, piece of waste yarn or spare cord for holding, cast on 8; 8; 8 (8; 10; 10) (12; 10; 12) new underarm sts, slip marker M4 to right needle, work in earlier established pattern to marker 3, slip marker 3 to right needle, work 10 Right Front (buttonhole) Band sts.

Info :

After having divided for the sleeves, you should have 144; 148; 172 (180; 184; 192) (196; 216; 220) sts.

Info :

Continue working over the sts of the Body of the cardigan only. Move markers M1 and M3 – 0; 0; 0 (0; 1; 1) (2; 1; 2) st(s) to the left; markers M2 and M4 – 0; 0; 0 (0; 1; 1) (2; 1; 2) st(s) to the right.

Info :

This way, between markers M1, M3 and M2, M4, 8 sts each have been marked for the side panels, which are worked as: 3 sts in stockinette stitch, 2 sts in reverse stockinette, 3 sts in stockinette stitch.

Info :

Work 2 cm [0.8 in] in earlier established pattern.

Next Row – increases :

Work in earlier established pattern to 1 st before marker M1, RLI, k1, slip marker M1 to right needle, work the 8 sts of the side panel in pattern described above, slip marker M2 to right needle, k1, LLI, work in earlier established pattern to 1 st before marker M3, RLI, k1, slip marker M3 to right needle, work side panel in pattern described above, slip marker M4 to right needle, k1, LLI, work in earlier established pattern to end of row = 4 sts increased.

Info :

Repeat increases in every 8th; 8th; 8th (8th; 10th; 10th) (10th; 10th; 10th) row another 3; 3; 3 (3; 4; 4) (4; 5; 5) times.

Info :

You should now have a total of 160; 164; 188 (196; 204; 212) (216; 240; 244) sts.

Info :

Continue in earlier established pattern until piece has either reached a height of 16; 18; 19 (20; 23; 25) (28; 31; 33) cm [6.3; 7; 7.5 (7.9; 9.1; 9.8) (14.2; 12.2; 13) in] or is 8 cm [3.1 in] shorter as desired length from sleeve division.

Info :

Slip markers M1 and M3 1 st to the right; markers M2 and M4 – 1 st to the left. In the next RS row, work in earlier established pattern to marker M1, then work the side panel sts as "p2, k2, p2, k2, p2" (= 10 sts), slip marker M2 to right needle, work in earlier established pattern to marker M3, then work the side panel sts as "p2, k2, p2, k2, p2" (= 10 sts), slip marker M4 to right needle, work in earlier established pattern to end of row. Work 3 more rows (1 RS, 1 WS, 1 RS) in earlier established pattern.

Info :

Slip markers M1 and M3 – 4 sts to the right; markers M2 and M4 – 4 sts to the the left. In the next RS row, work in earlier established pattern to marker M1, then work the side panel sts as (p2, k2) 4 times, p2.(= 18 sts), slip marker M2 to right needle, work in earlier established pattern to marker M3, then work the side panel sts as (p2, k2) 4 times, p2.(= 18 sts), slip marker M4 to right needle, work in earlier established pattern to end of row. Work 3 more rows (1 RS, 1 WS, 1 RS) in earlier established pattern.

Info :

In the next RS row, change to 2.5 mm [US1.5] needles and begin working ribbing as follows: Work 10 Left Front (button) Band sts, slip marker 1 to right needle, work in "k2, p2" ribbing to 2 sts before marker 2, k1, LLI, p1, slip marker 2 to right needle, p1, RLI, k1, work in "p2, k2" ribbing to marker 3, slip marker 3 to right needle, work 10 Right Front (buttonhole) Band sts.

Info :

Work the buttonhole and button band and between them, "k2, p2" ribbing for 6 cm [2.36 inches], then bind off all sts.

— Right Sleeve :

Info :

Take up the formerly held sts again, and place them on a 3.0 mm [US2.5] circular needle. Right side facing, join new working yarn, place BoR marker, work 8; 8; 8 (8; 10; 10) (12; 10; 12; 10; 12) sts into the corresponding sts at the side of the cardigan as they appear: knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts, place marker 1, work in stockinette stitch to end of row, join to work in the round. You should now have a total of 50; 54; 56 (60; 63; 64) (66; 72; 74) sts.

Info :

Work the sleeve in stockinette stitch in the round, purling the 2 sts in the center between BoR marker and marker 1.

Info :

Work even over an unchanged stitch count. Work in earlier established pattern in the round until sleeve has either reached a length of 15; 20; 22 (24; 27; 29) (33; 35; 37) cm [5.9; 7.9; 8.7 (9.45; 10.6; 11.4) (13; 13.8; 14.6) in] from armhole, or is 6 cm [2.36 inches] shorter than desired sleeve length.

Info :

Change to 2.5 mm [US1.5] needles, and proceed with working "k2, p2" ribbing, in the first round decreasing 2; 2; 0 (0; 3; 0) (2; 0; 2) sts evenly distributed by working p2tog (once if the number for your size is "1", twice if your number is "2", and not at all if your number is "0"). You should now have a total of – 48; 52; 56 (60; 60; 64) (64; 72; 72) sts. After having worked 6 cm [2.36 inches] in ribbing, bind off all sts.

Info :

Work the Left Sleeve the same way.

Info :

Moisten the cardigan, and block on an even horizontal surface, leaving pinned until completely dry.

Info :

Sew the buttons to the Left Front Band in the appropriate spots. Hide all ends. Happy knitting! ☺

— Buttonhole band on the Right Front (chart notes) :

Info :

Set-Up Row: p3, k4, p2, k1. Rows 1, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27: p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k3. Rows 2, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28: p3, k4, p2, k1. Row 3: p1, k2, p1, ssk, yo, p1, k3. Row 4: p3, k4, p2, k1. Work Rows 1–28 once, then repeat Rows 3–28 as often as needed, then work Rows 1–2.

— Button band on the Left Front :

Info :

Set-Up Row: k1, p2, k4, p3. Row 1: k3, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1. Row 2: k1, p2, k4, p3. Repeat Rows 1–2.

— Yoke pattern chart #1 (written rows) :

Set-UpRow (WS) :

(p1, k1) 6 times.

Rows 1, 3 (RS) :

(p1, k1) 6 times.

Rows 2, 4 (WS) :

(p1, k1) 6 times.

Row 5 :

p1, k1, LLI, p1, RLI, (k1, p1) 3 times, k1, LLI, p1, RLI, k1.

Rows 6, 8 :

(p2, k1) 2 times, (p1, k1) 2 times, (p2, k1) 2 times.

Row 7 :

(p1, k2) 2 times, (p1, k1) 2 times, (p1, k2) 2 times.

Row 9 :

(p1, k2) 2 times, pfb, k1, p1, k1, pfb, k2, p1, k2.

Row 10 :

(p2, k1) 2 times, (k1, p1) 2 times, k1, (k1, p2) 2 times, k1.

Row 11 :

(p1, k2) 2 times, pfb, (p1, k1) 2 times, p1, pfb, k2, p1, k2.

Row 12 :

(p2, k1) 2 times, (p1, k1) 4 times, (p2, k1) 2 times.

Row 13 :

(p1, k2) 2 times, p1, RLI, (k1, p1) 3 times, k1, LLI, (p1, k2) 2 times.

Row 14 :

(p2, k1) 3 times, (p1, k1) 2 times, (p2, k1) 3 times.

— Yoke pattern chart #2 (written rows) :

Set-UpRow (WS) :

(p1, k1) 2 times, (p2, k1) 2 times, (p1, k1) 2 times.

Rows 1, 3 (RS) :

(p1, k1) 2 times, (p1, k2) 2 times, (p1, k1) 2 times.

Rows 2, 4 (WS) :

(p1, k1) 2 times, (p2, k1) 2 times, (p1, k1) 2 times.

Row 5 :

p1, k1, LLI, p1, RLI, k1, p1, (k2, p1) 2 times, k1, LLI, p1, RLI, k1.

Rows 6, 8 :

(p2, k1) 6 times.

Row 7 :

(p1, k2) 6 times.

Row 9 :

(p1, k2) 2 times, pfb, k2, p1, k2, pfb, k2, p1, k2.

Row 10 :

(p2, k1) 2 times, (k1, p2) 2 times, k1, (k1, p2) 2 times, k1.

Row 11 :

(p1, k2) 2 times, pfb, (p1, k2) 2 times, p1, pfb, k2, p1, k2.

Rows 12, 14 :

(p2, k1) 2 times, p1, k1, (p2, k1) 2 times, p1, k1, (p2, k1) 2 times.

Row 13 :

(p1, k2) 2 times, p1, k1, (p1, k2) 2 times, p1, k1, (p1, k2) 2 times.

— Yoke pattern chart #3-1 (written rows excerpt) :

Row 15 :

(p1, k2) 2 times, p1, RLI, k1, (p1, k2) 2 times, p1, k1, LLI, (p1, k2) 2 times, p1, k1, LLI, (p1, k2) 2 times, p1, LLI.

Rows 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26 :

(k1, p2) 8 times, k1.

Rows 17, 21, 25 :

(p1, k2) 8 times, p1.

Row 19 :

p1, k2, p1, hold 3 sts on cn BEHIND work, k2, then “p1, k2” from cable needle, (p1, k2) 2 times, p1, hold 2 sts on cn in FRONT of work, k2, p1, then k2 from cable needle, p1, k2, p1.

Row 23 :

p1, k2, (p1, hold 3 sts on cn BEHIND work, k2, then “p1, k2” from cable needle) 2 times, p1, hold 2 sts on cn in FRONT of work, k2, p1, then k2 from cable needle, p1, k2, p1.

Rows 28, 30 :

k1, (k1, p2) 8 times, k2.

Rows 32, 34 :

k1, p1, (k1, p2) 8 times, k1, p1, k1.

Row 33 :

p1, k1, (p1, k2) 8 times, p1, k1, p1.

Row 35 :

p1, k2, (hold 2 sts on cn in FRONT of work, k2, p1, then k2 from cable needle, p1) 2 times, hold 3 sts on cn BEHIND work, k2, then “p1, k2” from cable needle, p1, hold 3 sts on cn BEHIND work, k2, then “p1, k2” from cable needle, p1.

Rows 36, 38, 40, 42 :

k1, p7, (k1, p2) 4 times, k1, p7, k1.

Row 37 :

p1, k7, (p1, k2) 4 times, p1, k7, p1.

— Yoke pattern charts and further chart sets :

Infos :

Additional yoke pattern charts #3-2, #3-3, #3-4, #4-1, #4-2, #4-3, #4-4 appear in sequence and contain the continuing stitch-by-stitch cable and lace pattern for different size and placement adjustments; follow the charts exactly, reading RS rows right-to-left and WS rows left-to-right.

Assembly Instructions

  • Moisten and block the cardigan on an even horizontal surface, pinning to the garment measurements and leaving pinned until completely dry.
  • Sew buttons to the Left Front Band at the appropriate positions marked by the buttonhole band; use a yarn tail and secure firmly with a tapestry needle.
  • Weave in all yarn ends neatly on the wrong side using a tapestry needle, hiding tails within seams and along ribbing to secure them.
  • Re-distribute and check marker placement before any final seaming or finishing to ensure side panels and button bands align correctly.
  • Pick up and join sleeve underarm stitches carefully onto circular needles when instructed, making sure cast-on underarm stitches match the prescribed counts.
  • After blocking, check button placement and buttonhole alignment by overlapping the front edges before final sewing.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of pattern sections, especially the markers M1–M4 and BoR markers during yoke and sleeve division.
  • 💡Check gauge on 3.0 mm needles after blocking; the recommended gauge is 25 sts and 36 rows = 10x10 cm in stockinette.
  • 💡Change to the specified needle sizes (2.5 mm for ribbing, 3.0 mm for main fabric) exactly when the pattern indicates to maintain correct measurements.
  • 💡Work short rows carefully and tighten the double stitch so the back neck shaping is neat with no visible gaps.
  • 💡When casting on underarm stitches for sleeve division, use a waste yarn or stitch holder to secure sleeve sts for later pick-up.

This charming DRAGOBRAT girls' cardigan blends thoughtful shaping with an elegant cable yoke that feels timeless. The neck-down construction makes it easy to try on as you go, and the finished piece is wearable and cozy for everyday adventures. Whether you knit one for a loved child or as a gift, it becomes a cherished handmade wardrobe staple. 🧶✨😊

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The pattern includes multiple sizes from 12 months through 12–14 years; refer to the chest circumference table for exact finished measurements by size.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can substitute yarn but the final size and drape will change; swatch to match the gauge of 25 sts and 36 rows = 10x10 cm on 3.0 mm needles and adjust needle size accordingly.

Do I need prior knitting experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate—familiarity with cables, reading charts, short rows, and working in the round is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most knitters will take 12-15 hours spread over several sessions depending on size, experience, and how much time is spent on finishing and blocking.