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Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern

Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern
4.1★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
1.7K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Iideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a charming little Tyrannosaurus named Oliver, a friendly amigurumi dinosaur with a poseable head and stitched details. The design includes instructions for the head, body, tail, legs, hands, crest and little spots, plus a bonus retro TV set. Techniques include jacquard color change, bobble stitch, and a cotter-pin attachment for a movable head.

Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Clear step-by-step rounds are given for every piece with photo references to guide assembly and finishing. You can easily personalise yarn colors, eye size, and embroidery to give Oliver his own personality.

Why You'll Love This Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines playful character with practical construction techniques that give a professional finish. I enjoy the tiny details like the embroidered teeth and the crest which really bring Oliver to life. The jacquard colorwork on the body is a fun way to practise neat color changes while keeping the wrong side tidy. Making the head poseable with a cotter pin adds an extra touch of interactivity that makes the toy feel special.

Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to personalise Oliver with different yarn colors; try pastel shades for a softer, nursery-friendly dinosaur or deep jewel tones for a bold look.

If you want a larger, cuddlier toy, use a bulkier yarn and a larger hook—your Oliver will grow proportionally, and the pattern still works well.

To make a keychain version, use thinner yarn and a 1.25–1.5 mm hook and replace the cotter-pin head attachment with a sewn head for durability.

I like adding embroidered eyebrows or eyelids to change Oliver's expression—move the eye placement slightly up or down to create a sleepy or surprised look.

Swap the safety eyes for embroidered eyes if making the toy for a young child to make it fully soft and safe.

Try using variegated yarn for Yarn A to get subtle color shifts on the body instead of spots, which is a fun, time-saving option.

Make a matching tiny outfit or accessory: a tiny scarf, bow tie, or a little party hat crocheted in one round can add instant personality.

For a playful texture, experiment with adding a row of bobble stitches along the back as an accent instead of or in addition to the crest.

I sometimes replace the cotter-pin with a glued-in wooden bead and a sewn joint for a simpler poseable head with fewer metal parts.

Use felt or small scraps of fabric to add appliqued details like a heart or patch on the tummy for a personal touch before final assembly.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at the start of rounds causes confusion and uneven stitch counts; place a marker at the first single crochet of each round and move it every round to stay accurate. ✗ Not stuffing gradually makes shapes lumpy and hard to control; stuff small amounts at a time and shape as you go to keep the profile smooth and even. ✗ Forgetting to change color correctly in jacquard rows can leave visible floats; at the last stitch before the color change pull the new yarn through and carry threads neatly, crocheting only the front or back loop as instructed. ✗ Pulling the stuffing too tight before closing seams can distort shaping; leave the piece slightly soft, stuff fully just before final decreases and then close securely with a yarn needle. ✗ Sewing parts without pre-pinning results in asymmetry and misplaced limbs; always pin pieces in place and check from multiple angles before sewing. ✗ Using a larger hook than recommended will make stitches loose and stuffing show through; if your stitches are large switch to a smaller hook to tighten the fabric.

Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern

Make your own adorable Tyrannosaurus Oliver with this detailed amigurumi crochet pattern. You will enjoy step-by-step instructions, photos and finishing tips to create a poseable, smiling dino with a retro TV bonus. The pattern uses two yarns and simple shaping techniques so you can personalise color and expression. Perfect as a handmade gift or a keepsake to treasure.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Yarn A: "Yarnart Jeans" sport weight (160 m/50 gr), color used in sample (green, color 29)
  • 02
    Yarn B: "Alize Cotton Gold Tweed" sport weight (330 m/100 gr), color used in sample (neutral/white mix, color 62)
  • 03
    Yellow yarn for TV bonus: "Gazzal Jeans" color 1125 (as noted for TV set)
  • 04
    Green, pink, black and white threads mouliné for embroidery (spots, cheeks, eye details)
  • 05
    Canvas Aida 16 count, color beige (for TV screen embroidery)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 1.75 mm (for crocheting dinosaur)
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 1.5 mm (for crocheting cheeks, crests and spots and fine details)
  • 03
    10 mm safety eyes (2 pieces)
  • 04
    Black thread floss (mouline) for eye outline and mouth
  • 05
    White thread floss (mouline) for eye highlights and teeth
  • 06
    Pink threads mouline for cheeks
  • 07
    Green threads mouline for crest and spots
  • 08
    Synthepus or polyester stuffing
  • 09
    Yarn needle (thick needle with blunt end) for sewing and finishing
  • 10
    Scissors
  • 11
    Needles for cutting - with a bead on the end (for fixing parts before sewing)
  • 12
    Round-nosed pliers
  • 13
    Cotter pin T-shaped 25 x 2.0 mm (for poseable head)
  • 14
    Shim 3 x 20 mm
  • 15
    Disk, diameter 20 mm (for head mounting)
  • 16
    Hoop (for TV embroidery)
  • 17
    Floral wire, diameter 0.95 mm; length ~10 cm (3.9 inches) for TV antenna
  • 18
    Styrofoam (for TV set form)
  • 19
    Pins or stitch markers

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— HEAD (Yarn A) :

Round 1 :

7 loops, turning, 6sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 6sc (from the back of the chain) (12l)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x6 (18l)

Round 3-4 :

18sc (18l)

Round 5 :

[2sc, inc]x6 (24l)

Round 6-7 :

24sc (24l)

Round 8 :

3sc, [inc]x18, 3sc (42l)

Round 9 :

18sc, 4dc in the next loop, [dec]x4, 4dc in the next loop, 14sc (44l)

Round 10 :

19sc, [2dc in the next loop]x2, sc, 4 sl st, sc, [2dc in the next loop]x2, 15sc (48l)

Round 11-13 :

24sc, 4 sl st, 20sc (48l)

Round 14 :

18sc, [dec]x3, 4sc, [dec]x3, 14sc (42l)

Round 15 :

42sc (42l)

Round 16 :

[5sc, dec]x6 (36l)

Round 17 :

[4sc, dec]x6 (30l)

Round 18 :

[3sc, dec]x6 (24l)

Info :

Insert safety eyes between the rounds 7 and 8, the distance between them is approximately 10 stitches, do not fix yet.

Info :

Using the yarn needle to do from above of the eye "loose stitch" of black thread floss. Separate one thread and fasten with a needle "loose stitch" in the middle of the eye. In the same way, embroider one more "loose stitch" 1 mm higher than the previous one, in order to get an oval shape.

Info :

Using yarn needle to do from below the eye "loose stitch" of white thread floss. Separate one thread and fasten with a needle "loose stitch". Press the eye to the embroidered line and fasten it.

Round 19-20 :

24sc (24l)

Info :

Divide the black threads floss in half, embroider the nostrils and mouth (see photos 13-21). Embroider 6 teeth (3pcs on each side) with white threads floss (divide in half) in the form of triangles (see photos 22-24).

Round 21 :

[2sc, dec]x6 (18l)

Round 22 :

[sc, dec]x6 (12l)

Info :

Start stuffing the head with synthepus and continue crocheting.

Round 23 :

[dec]x6 (6l)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure.

— CREST on the head :

Info :

Crochet crest with a hook 1.5 mm and green mouline threads.

Round 1 :

27 loops, turning, sl st (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), [sl st; crochet in one loop- {sl st, dc, sl st}; sl st]x8, sl st

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a very long end for sewing. Sew the crest to the head, pre-fixing it with needles for cutting, in order to achieve perfect symmetry.

— CHEEKS, 2 pcs (Pink threads mouline) :

Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring), sl st in 1st sc (6l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Sew the cheeks to the head with the wrong side outward.

— NECK and BODY :

Round 1 :

Yarn A 1: 2 loops, 8sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (8l)

Round 2 :

[inc]x8 (16l)

Info :

Next, you need to crochet the body of yarn A and yarn B at once, alternately change the thread, but not cutting it to get a white breast. This technique is called jacquard.

Round 3 :

[3sc, inc]x2 (Yarn B); [3sc, inc]x2 (Yarn A) (20l)

Round 4 :

only through back loops 10sc (Yarn B); 10sc (Yarn A) (20l)

Round 5 :

[4sc, inc]x2 (Yarn B); [4sc, inc]x2 (Yarn A) (24l)

Info :

Insert cotter pin in the middle of the neck (see photo 56). Put the disk on cotter pin and wrap the ends in the "rings" with the help of round-nosed pliers.

Round 6 :

12sc, (Yarn B); 6sc, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from the 2nd loop from the hook, sl st in the same loop (in which the last sc was crocheted before the chain), 6sc (Yarn A) (30l)

Round 7 :

12sc (Yarn B); 9sc, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from the 2nd loop from the hook, sl st in the same loop, 9sc (Yarn A) (36l)

Round 8 :

[5sc, inc]x2 (Yarn B); [5sc, inc]x4 (Yarn A) (42l)

Round 9 :

14sc, (Yarn B); [6sc, inc]x2, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from the 2nd loop from the hook, [6sc, inc]x2 (Yarn A) (52l)

Round 10 :

14sc (Yarn B); [7sc, inc]x2, 6sc, [7sc, inc]x2 (Yarn A) (56l)

Round 11 :

14sc (Yarn B); 21sc, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from the 2nd loop from the hook, sl st in the same loop, 21sc (Yarn A) (62l)

Round 12 :

14sc (Yarn B); 24sc, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from the 2nd loop from the hook, sl st in the same loop, 24sc (Yarn A) (68l)

Info :

It is more convenient to crochet with the jacquard only the front of the body, and the back should only be crocheted from yarn A. At the end of the row, when crocheting the last green sc, insert the hook into the loop, pull out the thread, and crochet this sc to the end with a white thread grabbing it in the place where it remained. A "loose stitch" is formed on the wrong side. You need to move it forward along with the green thread, so when crocheting jacquard it will be inside and the wrong side will become as neat as the front one.

Round 13 (incomplete round) :

14sc (Yarn B); crochet 26sc along the body, crochet 2sc of the body together with 2sc of the tail, then crochet 26sc along the body (Yarn A)

Round 14 :

15sc (Yarn B); crochet 25sc on the body, crochet 18sc on the tail, crochet 26sc on the body (Yarn A) (84l)

Round 15 :

15sc (Yarn B); 19sc, [dec]x3, 18sc, [dec]x3, 20sc (Yarn A) (78l)

Round 16 :

16sc (Yarn B); 15sc, [dec]x3, 18sc, [dec]x3, 17sc (Yarn A) (72l)

Round 17 :

16sc (Yarn B); 12sc, [dec]x3, 18sc, [dec]x3, 14sc (Yarn A) (66l)

Round 18 :

17sc (Yarn B); 14sc, [sc, dec]x6, 17sc (Yarn A) (60l)

Round 19 :

17sc (Yarn B); 14sc, [dec]x6, 17sc (Yarn A) (54l)

Info :

Next cut the yarn A and continue crocheting with yarn B only.

Round 20 :

[7sc, dec]x6 (48l)

Round 21 :

[6sc, dec]x6 (42l)

Round 22 :

[5sc, dec]x6 (36l)

Round 23 :

[4sc, dec]x6 (30l)

Round 24 :

[3sc, dec]x6 (24l)

Round 25 :

[2sc, dec]x6 (18l)

Round 26 :

[sc, dec]x6 (12l)

Round 27 :

[dec]x6 (6l)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure. Tip: Cut out a circle of white felt slightly larger than the resulting hole and insert it into the hole to prevent stuffing from clinging to the hook during closing.

— TAIL (Yarn A) :

Round 1 :

2 loops, 4sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (4l)

Round 2 :

[inc]x2, dec (5l)

Round 3 :

sc, [inc]x2, dec (6l)

Round 4 :

sc, [inc]x2, sc, dec (7l)

Round 5 :

sc, [inc]x3, sc, dec (9l)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, sc, inc, 2sc, dec (10l)

Round 7 :

10sc (10l)

Round 8 :

3sc, [inc]x3, 2sc, dec (12l)

Round 9 :

12sc (12l)

Round 10 :

3sc, [inc]x5, 2sc, dec (16l)

Round 11 :

16sc (16l)

Round 12 :

dec, 4sc, [inc]x4, 4sc, dec (18l)

Round 13 :

18sc (18l)

Round 14 :

dec, 5sc, [inc]x4, 5sc, dec (20l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread. Stuff the tail with synthepus. Mark with a pin the place where the tail connects to the back - move the pin to the 12 loop from the beginning of the round clockwise. Connect the body with the tail in the next round.

— LEGS, 2 pcs (Yarn A) :

Round 1 :

9 loops, turning, 8 sl st (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 8 sl st (from the back of the chain) (16l)

Round 2 :

[7sc, inc]x2 (18l)

Round 3-6 :

18sc (18l)

Round 7 :

3sc, dec, 8sc, dec, 3sc (16l)

Round 8 :

3sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 3sc (14l)

Round 9 :

2sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 2sc (12l)

Start stuffing :

Start stuffing the leg with synthepus.

Round 10-11 :

12sc (12l)

Round 12 :

sc, [dec]x2, 2sc, [dec]x2, sc (8l)

Round 13 :

sc, dec, 2sc, dec, sc (6l)

Info :

Completely fill the leg, don't stuff further.

Round 14 :

6sc only through back loops (6l)

Round 15 :

4sc, [inc]x2 (8l)

Round 16 :

4sc, [inc]x4 (12l)

Round 17 :

12sc (12l)

Round 18 :

7sc, [inc]x4, sc (16l)

Round 19 :

16sc (16l)

Info :

Change the thread to Yarn B (leave the long end of Yarn A). Remove the pin that marking the beginning of the round. Fold the resulting 16 loops in half and in the next round, crochet both halves together.

Round 20 :

1 loop, turning, 8 sl st (8l)

— HANDS, 2 pcs (Yarn A) :

Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Round 2 :

[inc, sc]x3 (9l)

Round 3 :

9sc (9l)

Round 4 :

[inc]x3, [dec]x3 (9l)

Round 5 :

9sc (9l)

Round 6 :

[dec]x3, [inc]x3 (9l)

Info :

Stuff the hand with synthepus.

Round 7 :

[sc, dec]x3 (6l)

Info :

Change the thread to Yarn B, cut the Yarn A thread. Remove the pin that marking the beginning of the round. Fold the resulting 6 loops in half and in the next round, crochet both halves together.

Round 8 :

1 loop, turning, 3 sl st (3l)

Round 9 :

1 loop, turning, crochet in 1 loop - {sc, 2 loops, sl st}; sl st; crochet in 1 loop - {sc, 2 loops, sl st} (see photo 99)

— CREST on the body :

Round 1 :

Crochet crest with a hook 1.5 mm and green mouline threads: 45 loops, turning, sl st (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), [sl st; crochet in one loop - {sl st, dc, sl st}; sl st]x14, sl st

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a very long end for sewing. Sew the crest to the body, pre-fixing it with needles for cutting, in order to achieve perfect symmetry.

— SPOTS :

SMALL, 8 pcs :

1: 3 loops, turning, 2sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 2sc (from the back of the chain) sl st in 1st sc (4l). Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

MIDDLE, 6 pcs :

1: 4 loops, turning, 3sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 3sc (from the back of the chain) sl st in 1st sc (6l). Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

BIG, 4 pcs :

1: 5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 4sc (from the back of the chain) sl st in 1st sc (8l). Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

— ASSEMBLY :

Info :

Sew on the spots on the hands, legs, back and tail. Sew your crocheted hands and legs to the body with a threaded bracing (use round-nosed pliers to make it easier to pull the needle). Attach the hands between rounds 9 and 10 of body, distance between hands approx 16 stitches; legs between 17 and 18 rounds of body, distance between legs approx 26 stitches.

Info :

Insert the needle through the back into the hand attachment point (leaving the loose end of the thread outside). Thread the needle through two loops on the inner surface of the hand (the needle for cutting must be in the middle). Insert the needle into the body at the hand attachment point and pull out it at the point of attachment of the second hand. Pass the needle through the second hand in the same way and sew the body and the hands two more times for strength.

Info :

Insert the needle at the hand attachment point and pull out it at the point of attachment of the opposite leg. Thread the needle through the leg, insert the needle into the body at the leg attachment point and pull out it at the point of attachment of the second leg. Pass the needle through the second leg and sew the body and the legs two more times for strength. Insert the needle into the body at the leg attachment point and pull out it at the back in the place, where it was introduced at the very beginning. Tie a few knots and hide the thread.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach hands and legs using needles for cutting: hands between rounds 9 and 10 of the body (approx 16 stitches apart), legs between rounds 17 and 18 (approx 26 stitches apart); pin parts to check positioning then sew securely.
  • Insert the cotter pin through the shim and disk, place between rounds 14 and 15 at the bottom of the head, then position the head onto the neck cotter pin assembly so the head can turn.
  • Sew the crest and spots to the body and head by pre-fixing with needles for cutting to ensure symmetry, then tack and secure with a needle and matching thread.
  • Embroider eyes, nostrils, mouth and teeth before final assembly: use black threads for outline, white threads for highlights and teeth, and pink for cheeks as shown in photos.
  • Connect tail to body by crocheting the tail and body together at the marked point and then close the seam; reinforce connection with extra stitches if needed.
  • Once all parts are pinned in place, use a threaded bracing technique (run needle through parts multiple times) and tie knots, hide ends inside the body for a secure finish.

Important Notes

  • 💡Mark the first single crochet with a pin or marker at the beginning of each round to keep track of rounds and avoid miscounts.
  • 💡Stuff pieces gradually and shape while stuffing; overstuffing or uneven stuffing can distort the amigurumi shape.
  • 💡If you cannot crochet tightly enough and stuffing shows through, use a smaller hook to tighten the fabric and prevent filling from escaping.
  • 💡When using jacquard color changes carry and arrange threads neatly on the wrong side; move the "loose stitch" forward along the green thread to keep the wrong side tidy.
  • 💡Pre-pin parts before sewing to ensure symmetrical positioning and check the dinosaur stands steadily before permanently attaching limbs.

This Tyrannosaurus Oliver amigurumi pattern is full of personality and small details that make him truly special. Make one for yourself or as a thoughtful handmade gift, and enjoy the playful construction and poseable head. Happy crocheting and have fun bringing Oliver to life! 🧶🦖

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 10.5 cm (4.1 inches) high when using the recommended yarn and hook sizes.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but the final size and stitch count will change. Choose an appropriate hook size and adjust eye size and hardware accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate due to jacquard color changes, bobble stitches and the cotter-pin head assembly, so basic amigurumi experience is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary with experience level, finishing details and photo referencing.