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Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern
4.7★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.2K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a small, detailed ankylosaurus amigurumi named Bruno with textured plates, tiny spikes and a movable tail option. It uses three sport-weight yarns and small hooks to achieve a firm fabric and crisp details. The instructions include step-by-step rounds, photo references and assembly guidance to help you complete Bruno successfully.

Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Includes yarn suggestions, tools list and clear shaping instructions for head, body, legs and accessories. Helpful assembly notes explain how to attach parts and add the wire or cotter pin for a movable head or tail.

Why You'll Love This Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because the little textured plates and spikes give Bruno such personality with simple stitches. I enjoy how the pattern combines small precise crochet with playful construction — it feels like sculpting with yarn. Making Bruno is satisfying because the toy is compact but surprisingly expressive and poseable. I also love that there are clear photo references and assembly steps so I can focus on the creative details rather than guessing placement.

Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize Bruno — you can swap the color palette to create a pastel or bright version instantly.

Want Bruno to be larger or smaller? Use a thicker or thinner yarn and adjust your hook accordingly; bulky yarn will give you a chunkier dinosaur and thinner yarn will make a mini version perfect for keychains.

I often change the plates' placement and spacing for a different visual effect — try more big plates or a single central stripe for variety.

Try embroidering different facial expressions by moving the eyes and changing the mouth shape; a slight repositioning gives Bruno a very different personality.

For safety eyes alternatives, you can embroider the eyes with black thread or use smaller safety eyes for a softer look ideal for babies (avoid wires and cotter pins for toys for small children).

I sometimes add tiny crocheted accessories like a scarf or a tiny popcorn bucket (pattern notes include materials) to personalize the toy as a gift.

If you want Bruno to be poseable, add steel wire into the tail and secure it well with electrical tape; I recommend testing and covering all exposed metal for safety.

For a plush, cuddly Bruno, choose a slightly looser tension and softer yarn, but be mindful of hiding stuffing; tighter tension creates crisper spikes and plates.

I enjoy combining yarn textures: use a tweed or tweaked yarn for plates and a smoother yarn for the body to add contrast and depth.

To make a set, crochet multiple Brunos with different color themes and plate patterns — they make a charming display and great gifts.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at the start of each round can lead to misaligned rows and confusing counts; place a marker at the first stitch of every round to keep track of the beginning. ✗ Not stuffing gradually will create lumps or gaps; stuff in small amounts while crocheting to maintain a smooth, even shape and support the structure. ✗ Using the wrong hook size for the yarn will make the fabric too loose and show stuffing; use the recommended smaller hooks to produce a firm amigurumi fabric. ✗ Forgetting to change colors exactly as instructed can cause jagged color lines; change color by crocheting half of the single crochet with the old color and the other half with the new color for a smooth transition.

Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

Make your own chubby Ankylosaurus Bruno with this detailed intermediate amigurumi pattern. You will love the playfully textured shell, movable tail option and tiny spikes that give Bruno his character. The pattern provides clear step-by-step rounds, material lists and assembly photos so you can crochet with confidence. Perfect as a gift or a charming shelf friend.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Yarn A: Yarnart Jeans (sport) 160 m/50 g — dark brown tone used for shell and accents, approx 50 g
  • 02
    Yarn B: Alize Cotton Gold Batik (sport) 330 m/100 g — light/mid brown variegated, approx 50-80 g
  • 03
    Yarn C: Alize Cotton Gold Tweed (sport) 330 m/100 g — cream/white for details, approx 25-50 g
  • 04
    Bonus popcorn bucket: White, red and yellow yarns (Alize Cotton Gold Hobby color 56 and Gazzal Jeans color 1125) — small amounts
  • 05
    White felt and white cardboard for popcorn bucket base (small pieces)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook 1.75 mm (for crocheting dinosaur)
  • 02
    Crochet hook 1.5 mm (for crocheting cheeks, spikes and plates)
  • 03
    10 mm safety eyes (2 pcs)
  • 04
    Black, white and pink threads mouliné for embroidery
  • 05
    2 pins or stitch markers
  • 06
    Needles for cutting with a bead on the end (for fixing parts before sewing)
  • 07
    Synthepus (polyester stuffing) for filling
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Yarn needle (thick needle with blunt end)
  • 10
    Sewing needle
  • 11
    Round-nose pliers
  • 12
    Cotter pin T-shaped 25 x 2.0 mm
  • 13
    Shim 3 x 20 mm
  • 14
    Disk, diameter 20 mm
  • 15
    Steel wire, diameter 1.6 mm (optional for movable tail)
  • 16
    Electrical tape
  • 17
    White felt (small piece)
  • 18
    Black threads for detail
  • 19
    Super Glue 'Moment' (for tiny glue fixes)
  • 20
    Coin (for popcorn bucket weight)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Round 1 :

Yarn A 1: 11 loops, turning, 10sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook) (10)

Round 2 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 8sc, inc (12)

Round 3 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc (12)

Round 4 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 10sc, inc (14)

Round 5 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc only through front loops (14)

Round 6-7 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc (14)

Round 8 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 10sc, dec (12)

Round 9 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc only through front loops (12)

Round 10-11 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc (12)

Round 12 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 10sc, inc (14)

Round 13 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc only through front loops (14)

Round 14-15 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc (14)

Round 16 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 10sc, dec (12)

Round 17 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc only through front loops (12)

Round 18 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 8sc, dec (10)

Round 19 :

1 loop, turning, [dec]x2, 2sc, [dec]x2 (6)

Round 20 :

1 loop, turning, 6sc (6)

Round 21 :

1 loop, turning, 6sc only through front loops (6)

Round 22 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 2sc, dec (4)

Info :

Next change the color to yarn B. To get a beautiful line when changing color in the next row crochet part of the sc in this way - half of the sc with dark-brown (yarn A), and the other half with light-brown (yarn B).

Round 23 :

22sc up; 10sc straight; 22sc down; 4sc straight (58) (see photos 1-3)

Round 24 :

4sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 18sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 8sc (54)

Round 25-27 :

54sc (54)

Round 28 :

[7sc, dec]x6 (48)

Round 29 :

[6sc, dec]x6 (42)

Round 30 :

[5sc, dec]x6 (36)

Round 31 :

[sc, dec]x12 (24)

— Muzzle (Yarn C) :

Round 1 :

5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 4sc (from the back of the chain) (8)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x4 (12)

Round 3 :

12sc, sl st in the 1st sc (12)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Sew the muzzle to the head as shown on photo 5. Insert safety eyes between the rounds 26 and 27, the distance between them is approximately 12 stitches, don't fix yet (see photo 6).

Info :

Using the yarn needle to do from above of the eye "loose stitch" of black thread floss (see photos 7, 8). Separate one thread and fasten with a needle "loose stitch" in the middle of the eye (see photos 9, 10). In the same way, embroider one more "loose stitch" 1 mm higher than the previous one, in order to get an oval shape (see photos 11-14).

Info :

Using yarn needle to do from below the eye "loose stitch" of white thread floss (see photos 15, 16). Separate one thread and fasten with a needle "loose stitch" (see photo 17). Press the eye to the embroidered line and fasten it.

Info :

Divide the black threads floss in half, embroider the nostrils and mouth (see photos 18-24).

Round 32 :

[dec]x12 (12)

Info :

Completely fill the head. Insert cotter pin into shim (see photo 31). Place cotter pin between 31 and 32 round of the head as shown on photos 32, 33.

Round 33 :

[dec]x6 (6)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure.

— Spikes (Yarn C) :

Small 2 pcs - Round 1 :

2 loops, 4sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (4)

Small - Round 2 :

4sc (4)

Small - Round 3 :

[inc]x4 (8)

Small - Round 4 :

[3sc, inc]x2 (10)

Small - Round 5 :

10sc (10)

Small - Round 6 :

[4sc, inc]x2 (12)

Small - Round 7-8 :

12sc (12)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Slightly stuff the spikes with synthepus and sew it to the head.

Big 2 pcs - Round 1 :

2 loops, 3sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (3)

Big - Round 2 :

sc, inc, sc (4)

Big - Round 3 :

[sc, inc]x2 (6)

Big - Round 4 :

[inc]x6 (12)

Big - Round 5 :

[2sc, inc]x4 (16)

Big - Round 6 :

16sc (16)

Big - Round 7 :

[7sc, inc]x2 (18)

Big - Round 8-9 :

18sc (18)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Slightly stuff the spikes with synthepus and sew it to the head (see photos 34-36).

— Tail (Yarn A) :

Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x3 (9)

Round 3 :

9sc (9)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread. Crochet the second detail according to the same scheme, do not cut the thread. To connect the details insert the hook initially into the first detail (from the inside to the outside), and then into the second detail (from the outside to the inside) (see photos 37, 38).

Round 6 (incomplete) :

crochet 3sc of the first detail together with 3sc of the second detail, then crochet 6sc along the second detail

Round 7 :

crochet 6sc on the first part, crochet 6sc on the second part (12)

Round 6 :

[4sc, dec]x2 (10)

Round 7 :

[3sc, dec]x2 (8)

Round 8 :

[2sc, dec]x2 (6)

Round 9-10 :

6sc (6)

Round 11 :

sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (8)

Round 12 :

8sc (8)

Round 13 :

2sc, [inc]x2, 4sc (10)

Round 14 :

10sc (10)

Round 15 :

3sc, [inc]x2, 5sc (12)

Round 16 :

5sc, [inc]x2, 5sc (14)

Round 17 :

7sc, [inc]x2, 5sc (16)

Round 18 :

8sc, [inc]x2, 6sc (18)

Round 19 :

18sc (18)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread. Mark with a pin the place where the tail connect to the back - move the pin to the 12th loop right from the beginning of the round (see photo 51). If you decide not to use wire, then stuff the tail with synthepus.

— Body - Back (Yarn A) :

Round 1 :

14 loops, turning, 13sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook) (13)

Round 2 :

1 loop, turning, 13sc (13)

Round 3 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 11sc, inc (15)

Round 4 :

1 loop, turning, 15sc only through front loops (15)

Round 5 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 13sc, inc (17)

Round 6 :

1 loop, turning, 17sc (17)

Round 7 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 15sc, inc (19)

Round 8 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc only through front loops (19)

Round 9-11 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc (19)

Round 12 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc only through front loops (19)

Round 13 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc (19)

Round 14 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 15sc, dec (17)

Round 15 :

1 loop, turning, 17sc (17)

Round 16 :

1 loop, turning, 17sc only through front loops (17)

Round 17 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 13sc, dec (15)

Round 18 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 11sc, dec (13)

Round 19 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 9sc, dec (11)

Round 20 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 7sc, dec only through front loops (9)

Round 21 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 5sc, dec (7)

Round 22 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 3sc, dec (5)

Info :

Connect the back with the tail in the next round. To connect the details insert the hook initially into the tail (from the inside to the outside), and then into the back (from the outside to the inside) (see photos 52-55).

Round 23 :

1 loop, turning, crochet 5sc of the back together with 5sc of the tail (see photo 56)

Info :

Next change the color to yarn B. To get a beautiful line when changing color in the next row (the same way as for the head) crochet part of the sc in this way - half of the sc with dark-brown (yarn A), and the other half with light-brown (yarn B). Crochet the body around the perimeter in a counter-clockwise direction from the point "Start" (see photo 57).

Round 24 :

crochet 22sc, 13sc, 22sc on the back; crochet 13sc on the tail (70) (see photos 58, 59)

Info :

Sew the holes between the tail and the back using extra thread (see photo 60).

Round 25-27 :

70sc (70)

Round 28 :

[5sc, dec]x10 (60)

Round 29 :

[8sc, dec]x6 (54)

— Neck (Yarn C) :

Round 1 :

5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook) (4)

Round 2 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 2sc, inc (6)

Round 3 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 4sc, inc (8)

Round 4 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 6sc, inc (10)

Round 5-9 :

10sc (10)

Info :

Crochet the neck around the perimeter in a counter-clockwise direction from the point "Start" (see photo 61).

Round 10 :

8sc down; 4sc straight; 8sc up, 10sc straight (30)

Info :

Mark with a pin the place where the neck connect to the body - move the pin for 1 loop right from the beginning of the round (see photo 62). Cut and fix the thread.

Info :

Continue crochet the body, change the thread to yarn C. Connect the body with the neck in the next round. To connect the details insert the hook initially into the neck (from the inside to the outside), and then into the body (from the outside to the inside) (see photos 63-67).

Round 30 :

crochet 9sc, dec, 7sc along the body; crochet 10sc of the body together with 10sc of the neck; then crochet 2sc, dec, [9sc, dec]x2 along the body (see photo 68) (60)

Round 31-33 :

60sc (60) (see photo 69)

Info :

Insert cotter pin between 6 and 7 row of the neck (in the middle, see photos 70, 71). Put the disk on cotter pin and wrap the ends in the "rings" with the help of round-nosed pliers (see photos 72-75).

Round 34 :

[3sc, dec]x12 (48)

Round 35 :

[2sc, dec]x12 (36)

Round 36 :

[sc, dec]x12 (24)

Round 37 :

[2sc, dec]x6 (18)

Round 38 :

[sc, dec]x6 (12)

Info :

Completely fill the body.

— Plates (Yarn C) :

Small (8 pcs) Round 1 :

2 loops, 4sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (4)

Small Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x2 (6)

Small Round 3 :

6sc (6)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

Middle (10 pcs) Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6)

Middle Round 2 :

[2sc, inc]x2 (8)

Middle Round 3 :

8sc (8)

Middle Round 4 :

[3sc, inc]x2 (10)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

Big (4 pcs) Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6)

Big Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x3 (9)

Big Round 3 :

[2sc, inc]x3 (12)

Big Round 4-5 :

12sc (12)

Info :

Slightly stuff the plates with synthepus. Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing (see photo 79). Sew the plates to the back, placing them on the lines of the remaining back loops in a checkerboard pattern as shown on photos 80, 81.

— Legs (Yarn B) :

Front, 2 pcs - Round 1 :

5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 4sc (from the back of the chain) (8)

Front Round 2 :

3sc in the next loop, 6sc, 3sc in the next loop (12)

Front Round 3 :

only through back loops 12sc (12)

Front Round 4-5 :

[inc]x2, 3sc, {sc3tog}*, 4sc (12)

Front Round 6 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12)

Front Round 7 :

12sc (12)

Info :

Start stuffing the leg with synthepus.

Front Round 8 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12)

Front Round 9-14 :

12sc (12)

Front Round 15 :

[sc, dec]x4 (8)

Front Round 16 :

[2sc, dec]x2 (6)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure.

Back, 2 pcs - Round 1 :

5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 4sc (from the back of the chain) (8)

Back Round 2 :

3sc in the next loop, 6sc, 3sc in the next loop (12)

Back Round 3 :

only through back loops 12sc (12)

Back Round 4-5 :

[inc]x2, 3sc, {sc3tog}*, 4sc (12)

Back Round 6 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12)

Back Round 7 :

12sc (12)

Info :

Start stuffing the leg with synthepus.

Back Round 8 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12)

Back Round 9-12 :

12sc (12)

Back Round 13 :

[sc, dec]x4 (8)

Back Round 14 :

[2sc, dec]x2 (6)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure.

Toes :

THOES, 3 pcs on each leg (Yarn C, in two folds). Embroider 3 toes on each leg with French knot (see photos 85-90).

— Assembly :

Info :

Sew your crocheted legs to the body with a threaded bracing (use round-nosed pliers to make it easier to pull the needle). For this, it is necessary:

Step 1 :

Attach the legs using needles for cutting (front legs between 29 and 30 rounds of body, distance between legs approx 24 stitches, back legs between 25 and 26 rounds of body, distance between legs approx 16 stitches - view from above, see photos 91-93). Check that the dinosaur stand steadily. Detach the arms and legs without removing the needles from them, and insert other needles for cutting in their place (see photo 94, 95).

Step 2 :

Insert the needle through the back into the front leg attachment point (leaving the loose end of the thread outside) (see photo 96, 97).

Step 3 :

Thread the needle through two loops on the inner surface of the leg (the needle for cutting must be in the middle) (see photo 98).

Step 4 :

Insert the needle into the body at the leg attachment point and pull out it at the point of attachment of the second leg (see photo 99). Continue sewing as described and secure all seams.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach head to body by inserting the neck portion into the opening at the top of the body, aligning the cotter pin placement between rounds 31 and 32 and sewing securely with a threaded bracing.
  • Sew front legs between body rounds 29 and 30 spaced approximately 24 stitches apart; sew back legs between rounds 25 and 26 spaced approximately 16 stitches apart, checking balance as you go.
  • Sew plates to the back in a checkerboard pattern using long ends left from each plate; place small plates toward top and bottom rows and big plates in central rows for the pictured layout.
  • Insert the decorative wire into the tail ring and wrap the twisted ends with electrical tape; crochet the tail over the wire and secure it inside the body at the marked attachment point (move the pin to the 12th loop from the start).
  • Use extra thread to sew and close holes between tail/back and between neck/body, then insert the disk and cotter pin for a rotatable head if desired; wrap and secure metal parts with round-nose pliers and tape.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of your rounds, especially when changing colors and shaping the head and body.
  • 💡Stuff firmly but in small amounts while shaping to avoid lumps and to maintain the toy's form; overstuffing can distort seams.
  • 💡If you add wire for a movable tail or cotter pin for the head, take care to secure all metal parts and avoid small detachable pieces for toys intended for small children.
  • 💡When changing color mid-stitch, crochet half of the single crochet with the old color and the other half with the new color to create a smooth color line.

This little Ankylosaurus Bruno is perfect for handmade gifts and display — packed with personality in a pocket-sized form. The pattern includes complete rounds, plates, spikes and assembly tips to help you finish Bruno just like the photos. Whether you keep him on your shelf or make one for a friend, he will bring smiles and handmade charm. 🧶🧸

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 7 cm (2.8 inches) high and 12 cm (4.7 inches) in length without a tail when using the recommended yarn and hook sizes.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but the final size will change; choose an appropriate hook size to maintain a firm fabric and adjust the amount of stuffing accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of single crochet, increases, decreases and reading round counts is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary based on experience level, customization and assembly time.