Make a cozy, graphic crochet sweater featuring a bold fish intarsia motif. This pattern walks you through making two rectangular panels, sleeves, ribbing and a collar, plus step-by-step graph instructions for two fish sizes. You can customize fit, color and fish placement to create a truly personal handmade sweater that fits your style.
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— Front panel :
Foundation row :
CH (55, 61, 68, 76, 82, 88, 97, 103, 109).
R1 :
HDC in the third CH from your hook. HDC until the end of the row for a total of (53, 59, 66, 74, 80, 86, 95, 101, 107) STS. CH 2 and TO.
R2 :
HDC in each ST until the end of the row. CH2 and TO.
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For sizes XS-S: Repeat R2 20 times, for a total of 22 rows. For sizes M-L: Repeat R2 24 times, for a total of 26 rows. For sizes XL-2XL: Repeat R2 30 times, for a total of 32 rows. For sizes 3XL-4XL: Repeat R2 36 times, for a total of 38 rows. For size 5XL: Repeat R2 42 times, for a total of 44 rows.
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If you want a longer/shorter sweater, you may add/detract rows. Just make sure you finish on an even row, meaning the tail from your foundation row is facing left after you CH2 and TO at the end of your last row.
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Now we start the fish graph! There are two different sizes of the graph — one bigger and one smaller. My recommendation is that sizes XS–M use the smaller graph and that L and upwards go with the bigger graph. This ensures enough padding on the sides so the fish will be visible even when panels wrap around your side.
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The bigger fish measures 34cm in width and 18cm in height. The smaller fish measures 28cm in width and 16cm in height.
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It is important that you start the fish on an odd row: XS/S: 23, M/L: 27, XL/2XL: 33, 3XL-4XL: 39, 5XL: 45.
— Smaller fish graph :
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The smaller fish is 39 STS wide and 16 R tall. To center your placement, detract 39 from your number of STS and divide that number by 2. The final number is the number of STS from each side (left and right) you should have before referring to the graph.
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For example, size XS is 53STS wide. 53 – 39 = 14. 14/2 = 7. There should be 7 STS of your background color on each side of the graph.
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On an odd row (23, 23, 27), with your foundation chain tail facing left: HDC (7, 10, 13). Enter graph, starting at bottom right.
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After the 39th HDC of each row, HDC (7, 10, 13), until end of the row. Repeat for 16 rows, until the end of the graph.
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Exit graph and HDC in each STS for 14 rows, for a total of (52, 52, 56) rows.
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** Please note: if you get a fraction when you calculate your placement and divide your STS count in two, e.g. 54-39 = 15 and 15/2 = 7.5, then HDC 7, enter graph, then HDC 8 after you exit the graph. **
— Bigger fish graph :
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The bigger fish is 47 STS wide and 21 R tall. To center your placement, detract 47 from your number of STS and divide that number by 2. The final number is the number of STS from each side (left and right) you should have before referring to the graph.
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For example, size L is 74STS wide. In this example, we get an odd number when 74 – 47 = 27. 27/2 = 13.5. To solve this, we make 13 STS on one side and 14 STS on the other.
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On an odd row (27, 33, 33, 39, 39, 45), with your foundation chain tail facing left: HDC (13, 16, 19, 24, 27, 30). Enter graph, starting at bottom right.
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After the 47th HDC of each row, HDC (14, 17, 20, 24, 27, 30), until end of the row. Repeat for 21 rows until the end of the graph. Continued on next page...
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Exit graph and HDC in each STS for 9 rows, for a total of (56, 62, 62, 68, 68, 74) rows.
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** Please note: if you get a fraction when you calculate your fish placement and divide your STS count in two, e.g. 66-39 = 27 and then 27/2 = 13.5, then HDC 13, enter graph, then HDC 14 after you exit the graph. Since the fish is not a symmetrical shape, one stitch difference from the center won't be visible. **
— Neckline shaping – Front :
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At row (53, 53, 57, 57, 63, 63, 69, 69, 75) we will start the neckline shaping/shoulder extensions. The shoulder extensions are worked separately, meaning you do the left and right side one at a time.
Step 1 :
HDC (19, 22, 25, 29, 32, 35, 40, 43, 46). CH2 and TO.
Step 2 :
HDC2TOG. HDC until the end of the row. CH2 and TO.
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Repeat step 1 and 2 for 8 rows, alternating between decreases. At the end of row 8, fasten off.
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To make the other side, count STS from the edge and add a stitch marker in the (19, 22, 25, 29, 32, 35, 40, 43, 46)th ST. Attach your yarn by your stitch marker.
Step 1 :
HDC until the end of the row (19, 22, 25, 29, 32, 35, 40, 43, 46). CH2 and TO.
Step 2 :
HDC until there are two STS left on the row. HDC2TOG. CH2 and TO.
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Repeat step 1 and 2 for 8 rows, alternating between decreases. At the end of row 8, fasten off. See next page for diagram.
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You should have a total of (60, 60, 64, 64, 72, 72, 78, 78, 84) rows.
— Back panel :
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The back panel is the same as the front, minus the fish graph. You may add whatever text or graph you want here, or just keep it simple.
Foundation row :
CH (55, 61, 68, 76, 82, 88, 97, 103, 109).
R1 :
HDC in the third CH from your hook. HDC until the end of the row for a total of (53, 59, 66, 74, 80, 86, 95, 101, 107) STS. CH 2 and TO.
R2 :
HDC in each ST until the end of the row. CH2 and TO.
Info :
For sizes XS-S: Repeat R2 54 times, for a total of 56 rows. For size M-L: Repeat R2 58 times, for a total of 60 rows. For sizes XL-2XL: Repeat R2 66 times, for a total of 68 rows. For sizes 3XL-4XL: Repeat R2 72 times, for a total of 74 rows. For size 5XL: Repeat R2 78 times, for a total of 80 rows.
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... or repeat for however many rows you made your front panel, minus four (for the back panel's shoulder extensions).
— Neckline shaping – Back :
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At row (57, 57, 61, 61, 69, 69, 75, 75, 81) we will start the neckline shaping/shoulder extensions for the back panel.
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The shoulder extensions are worked separately, meaning you do the left and right side one at a time. The process is the same as it is for the front, but you do 4 rows of decreases instead of 8.
Step 1 :
HDC (17, 20, 23, 27, 30, 33, 38, 41, 44). CH2 and TO.
Step 2 :
HDC2TOG. HDC until the end of the row. CH2 and TO.
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Repeat step 1 and 2 for 4 rows, alternating between decreases. At the end of row four, fasten off. Continued on next page.
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To make the other side, count STS from the edge and add a stitch marker in the (17, 20, 23, 27, 30, 33, 38, 41, 44)th ST.
Bullet :
HDC until the end of the row. CH2 and TO.
Bullet :
HDC until there are two STS left on the row. HDC2TOG. CH2 and TO.
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Repeat step 1 and 2 for 4 rows, alternating between decreases. At the end of row four, fasten off. You should have a total of (60, 60, 64, 64, 72, 72, 78, 78, 84) rows.
— Joining the panels :
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When you've finished your two panels, it's time to seam them together at the shoulders. You may either SL ST them together or sew them together, whatever you prefer.
— Collar :
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After you've joined the panels, let's make the collar! Start by attaching your yarn anywhere on your neckline. CH 1 and SC around. Make two rows of SC and SL ST to your starting point. From here:
Foundation row :
CH 6 ST or however tall you want your collar to be.
Step 1 :
Starting from the 2nd CH from hook, SC in the BLO until the end of the row (5). SL ST in the next two STS. TO.
Step 2 :
SC in the BLO until the end of the row (5). Ch1 and TO.
Step 3 :
SC in the BLO until the end of the row (5). SL ST in the next two STS. TO.
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Repeat step 2 and 3 until your collar reaches around. Make sure you can fit your head through!
— Sleeves :
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SL ST the two panels together going from the bottom up. You may modify how loose/tight you want the sleeve to be on your arm pit. When you feel satisfied, SC around the hole, slip stitching into the first st. This will be your base.
Row 1 :
HDC in each ST. SL ST into the first ST. TO.
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Repeat row 1 until you reach the length you wish. Repeat for the other side.
— Ribbing and arm cuffs :
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I'm one of those people who always end with the ribbing. If you are familiar with making ribbed sweaters, shirts, or other clothing, feel free to start with the ribbing. I like to end with the ribbing because that way if the sweater feels too wide, I can use the ribbing to cinch it in.
How to make ribbing :
1. CH to the desired height of ribbing + 1 (I wanted my ribbing to be 6 STS tall, so I started by chaining 7). 2. HDC in each CH (6). 3. HDC in the BLO of each ST. 4. Repeat until ribbing reaches around both panels.
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When you have your ribbing, attach it to the bottom of the sweater by SL ST or by sewing. I prefer sewing, as it leaves a flatter finish, but you may choose whatever you please.
For cuffs :
CH to the desired width of your cuff + 1. 1. HDC in each CH. 2. HDC in the BLO of each ST. 3. Repeat until cuff reaches around wrist.
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When you have your cuffs, attach them to the bottom of the sleeve by SL ST or by sewing. I prefer sewing, as it leaves a flatter finish, but you may choose whatever you please.
— Finishing :
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Now just weave in all those loose ends and you're all done!!!
This sweater pattern brings playful intarsia to a classic, comfy silhouette — perfect for everyday wear or gifting. 🧶
The instructions include two fish graph sizes, plus step-by-step shaping and finishing notes so you can customize fit and style. 🐟
Enjoy making something bold and handmade that will get compliments every time you wear it. ✨
