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Mimosa Doll Amigurumi Pattern

Mimosa Doll Amigurumi Pattern
4.8β˜… Rating
12+ Hours Time Needed
2.9K Made This
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Advanced Level

Designed for experienced crocheters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journeyβ€”perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Mimosa Doll Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern guides you through making a detailed Mimosa Doll complete with embroidered eyes, sculpted lips and implanted hair. It features clear rounds for head, arms, legs and body plus clothing patterns for a t-shirt and salopette. The instructions include wiring for poseable limbs and step-by-step hair transplant technique for realistic hair. Ideal for a finished collector-quality doll with lots of personality.

Mimosa Doll Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Includes materials list, abbreviations, and special finishing techniques such as eye processing and hair planting. Full assembly and placement instructions are provided for an accurate, polished result.

Why You'll Love This Mimosa Doll Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines crochet with hand embroidery and hair planting to create a highly detailed, expressive doll. I enjoy the challenge of shaping faces and embroidering realistic eyes β€” it brings each doll to life. The clothing options like the t-shirt and salopette let me customize styles and colors for different looks. Sewing the head and body together and adding wires for posability gives a satisfying finish that makes the doll durable and display-ready.

Mimosa Doll Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Mimosa Doll Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Mimosa Doll Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Mimosa Doll Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how many customization options this pattern offers; you can change yarn colors to create different skin tones, hair shades, and outfit palettes to suit your style.

Want a softer, cuddlier doll? Try bulky yarn with a larger hook to make a chunkier, more huggable version; conversely, use thinner yarn and a smaller hook for a delicate mini version.

I often swap the embroidery colors for the iris to give different expressions β€” darker irises give a deeper look, while lighter tones make the doll appear more whimsical.

If you prefer a no-sew finish for clothing, consider working sleeves and pant legs longer and seaming with mattress stitch for a tidy edge.

I also experiment with different hair styles: braids, pigtails, or short crops are all possible by adjusting the hair implant density and length.

To make the doll posable without wire, try tightly stuffing limbs and adding a stronger internal cord; for more flexibility, use thicker arm wires and wrap them in tape before embedding.

Personalize the outfit with tiny appliques, embroidered patterns, or miniature crocheted accessories like hats and booties to make each doll unique.

For gift-ready presentation, sew a tiny removable dress or onesie with snap buttons so the recipient can change the doll's outfit safely and easily.

I like to add subtle shading with dry crayons around cheeks, knees and elbows to create depth β€” always test on scrap yarn first to keep results natural.

Finally, try making a whole family set by changing scale: same pattern in different yarn weights and hooks makes a charming collection of matching dolls.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers at key alignment points can lead to misplaced facial features; mark the center and eye locations before starting embroidery to ensure symmetry. βœ— Understuffing or overstuffing limbs changes proportions and causes crooked legs; fill evenly every 5-6 rows and check shape frequently while stuffing. βœ— Rushing the eye embroidery often produces uneven pupils and iris shapes; take your time, baste carefully and follow the multi-stage eye processing to achieve neat results. βœ— Not securing wires and taping ends properly makes arm supports unstable; fold and tape wire ends, then place and wrap them in the arm before filling to secure them.

Mimosa Doll Amigurumi Pattern

Create a charming Mimosa Doll with detailed step-by-step crochet and embroidery instructions. This pattern includes head, body, arms, legs, clothing and hair transplant techniques so you can craft a fully finished doll. You will learn specialized eye embroidery and hair planting for a lifelike finish. Suitable for crocheters who enjoy detailed assembly and finishing work.

Advanced 12+ Hours

Materials Needed for Mimosa Doll Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Peria Baby Soft Cotton skin color 17 - 2 pieces
  • 02
    Peria Baby Soft Cotton white 13 - 1 piece
  • 03
    Schachenmayr Catania green 419 - 1
  • 04
    Schachenmayr Catania purple 240 - 1
  • 05
    Gazzal Baby Cotton lilac 3422 - 1
  • 06
    Trade Diva 55 - 1
  • 07
    Paper rope dark straw - quantity as needed for clothing
  • 08
    Viburnum Etamine 840 for hair - 2 skeins
  • 09
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 light blue K0028 - small amount
  • 10
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 dark blue K00147 - small amount
  • 11
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 brown K0035 - small amount
  • 12
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 white - small amount
  • 13
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 black - small amount
  • 14
    Orenbayan Cotton Perle pink 465 - small amount
  • 15
    Bead fiber - as needed for weight/structure

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.00 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 2.20 mm
  • 03
    2.5 size skewer
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Yarn needle for sewing
  • 06
    Stitch markers
  • 07
    Polyester stuffing
  • 08
    Etamine needle for sewing, society and quilt needle for eye embroidery
  • 09
    Pacifier chain rope / parachute rope half meter for shoelaces
  • 10
    70cm 2.5mm electrical wire to put on neck and arms
  • 11
    Dry crayon for make-up and aging
  • 12
    Buttons: 3 x 8mm white (back of t-shirt), 1 x 8mm purple (back of dress), 7 x 6mm white (front of dress)

Progress Tracker

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β€” Head :

Round 1 :

Magic ring into 6sc

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2sc,inc)*6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3sc,inc)*6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4sc,inc)*6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5sc,inc)*6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6sc,inc)*6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7sc,inc)*6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8sc,inc)*6 (60)

Round 11 :

(9sc,inc)*6 (66)

Round 12 :

(10sc,inc)*6 (72)

Round 13-27 :

72sc (15 rows)

Info :

***Go to eye processing. After the eye embroidery is finished, the head will continue to be knitted.

β€” Eye Processing :

Infos :

Determining the eye locations: Aligning the third increment loop on the 12th row of the head, aligning the 21. Mark with a pin between row and 22nd row. This is the middle between the eyes. Pin by counting 6 sc to the right, 5 sc to the left of the pin. Pupils will be embroidered on the marked places.

Info :

***The concept of tour will be used when processing the eye. The tour consists of two stages. First: In this stage, basting is done by sinking into the layers of the sc. Second step basting: The tour is completed by going through all the stitches made.

Round 1 :

Circle with a flying pen so that the diameter of the pupils corresponds to two sc. Attach a single layer of black domino thread to the needle. Circle the circumference of the circle by sc. Complete the first step by basting by taking it from the folds.

Round 2 :

Remove the needle from the upper part of the eye and pass under the opposite stitches and close the pupil.

Round 3 :

Make the iris a circle by leaving a sc around the pupil. Beginning from the upper part of the eye with a dark blue thread, wrap the loops around the iris. Process by basting from the floor. From the outside to the inside of each of the stitches you have worked.

Round 4 :

Process the iris one more round.

Round 5 :

Embroider the upper half of the iris with one more round of dark blue thread. The bottom half will be embroidered with light blue thread.

Round 6 :

Make a round embroidery on the half part under the pupil with a double layer of light blue thread. The width and length of the iris is 4 sc. Similarly, process the other eye. Retouch gaps by sinking into the head.

Round 7 :

To process the white part of the eye, use a lower row of the inner side of the eye as in the image. Draw a circle starting at the top of the outer corner of the eye. Fill and retouch vacant places if needed.

Infos :

9-Do one more round in the same way. 10-The upper white part of the eye is filled from the raw ground to the new round for starting one more round do it. 11-A round will be made with the same technique between the blue and white parts of the eye with the black thread. Process the other eye in the same way.

Section :

Lash bottom line: 1-Plunge into the second row from the bottom of the outer part of the eye. Baste up to the corner of the eye. It sinks into the eye socket and exits from the starting point, over the basting stitches. Complete the tour. 2- One more round starting from the upper row of the lower lash line to the corner of the eye.

Section :

Eyelash: 1-One upper lash line come out of the queue as in the picture sink into the root of the eyelash. Same operation on the same eyelash again. 2- Determine the places of the other eyelashes as in the image. A small eyelash by sinking further than the point you set first will be processed.

Info :

Eye shimmer: Attach two layers of white thread. Both eyes as pictured. Process the sparkle in the same way.

Info :

***Eye processing is finished. The head will continue to be knitted.

Round 28-30 :

72sc (3 row)

Round 31 :

2sc, dec, (10sc,dec)*5, 8sc (66)

Round 32 :

5sc, dec, (9sc,dec)*5, 4sc (60)

Round 33 :

(8sc,dec)*6 (54)

Round 34 :

2sc, dec, (7sc,dec)*5, 5sc (48)

Round 35 :

5sc, dec, (6sc,dec)*5, sc (42)

Info :

*** Fill in the head.

Round 38 :

2sc, dec, (5sc,dec)*5, 3sc (36)

Round 39 :

(4sc,dec)*6 (30)

Round 40 :

(3sc,dec)*6 (24)

Info :

*** Fill in the head. While filling the head, it is as round as possible without breaking its form. After the filling process is finished, filling to the sides. If you do, the head will be more rounded.

Round 41 :

(sc,dec)*8, sl st (16)

Info :

***The head is finished, cut the rope. Nose: Two rows below the eye, coinciding with the middle of the two eyes. Sc will be processed with spacing. Separate the yarn into layers. 4-5 times as in the picture. Embroider the nose out.

Section :

Brow: One row above lashes, 5 sc wide and 9 sc between brows leave and process the eyebrows. Follow the images.

Section :

Lip: Lip with pins, leaving 3 sc spacing 4 sc down the nose. Determine your location. Attach the thread to the needle in two layers. Triangle shape for lip processing. Round 1: Lip shaping will be created by wrapping the triangle. Embroider by inserting the thread from the bottom and exiting from the top.

Infos :

Wrap the rope 5 times. Make sure that the rope you wrap does not overlap and that it is side by side. Complete the round by wrapping the bottom edge 6-7 times. 2nd round: insert the needle from the outside to the inside and make 3-4 loops on the lips. Make 4-5 loops on the lower lip. Lip augmentation optionally with the same technique.

β€” Arm :

Round 1 :

Magic ring into 6sc

Round 2 :

2inc, sc, 2inc, sc (10)

Round 3 :

2sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 2sc (12)

Round 4 :

3sc, inc, 5sc, inc, 2sc (14)

Round 5 :

4sc, inc, 9sc (15)

Round 6-8 :

15sc (3 rows)

Round 9 :

4sc, dec, 6sc, dec, sc (13)

Round 10 :

11sc ,dec (12)

Round 11-36 :

12sc, sl st, finished, break yarn. ***The arms will not be filled with fiber. Knit the other arm in the same way.

β€” Foot :

Info :

Start with tan yarn. The two feet will be knitted with the same and the right and left legs will be continued with separate.

Round 1 :

Draw 9ch. Starting from 2ch, 2sc, 6sc into the first loop, 3sc, 7sc into the same loop (18)

Round 2 :

inc, 8sc, inc, 8sc (20)

Round 3-10 :

20sc (8 rows)

Round 11 :

3sc, pull 7ch and skip 9sc, 8sc

Round 12 :

3sc, 7sc over 7 chains, 8sc (18)

Info :

*** It will be continued with the heel part.

Round 13 :

(sc,dec)*6 (12)

Round 14 :

6dec, heel over, leave a long string to gather the heel and break the string.

Info :

*** With the needle, collect the 6 sc from the flo loops and tighten well, knot the thread inside the foot and hide it. *** The foot is over, it will be passed to the leg. Knit the other foot in the same way.

β€” Leg :

Info :

MUST READ! *** Right and left leg nomenclature; represents the baby's right and left legs. The shape of the legs depends on the regularity of the filling; fill every 5-6 rows. Keep the leg away and check the image frequently.

Section :

Left leg :

Round 1 :

Turn the back of the foot and pull 7ch, attach the rope to the 4th loop of the loop, 4sc on the chain, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 9sc in the front, one sc in the remaining space between the front part and the sole, 3sc on the chain (18)

Round 2 :

4sc, dec, 7sc from flo, dec, 3sc (16)

Round 3-6 :

16sc (4 rows)

Round 7 :

inc, 15sc (17)

Round 8 :

17sc

Round 9 :

sc, inc, 15sc (18)

Round 10 :

18sc

Round 11 :

2sc, inc, 15sc (19)

Round 12 :

3sc, inc, 15sc (20)

Round 13 :

20sc

Round 14 :

4sc, inc, 15sc (21)

Round 15 :

21sc

Round 16 :

5sc, inc, 15sc (22)

Round 17 :

22sc

Round 18 :

6sc, inc, 15sc (23)

Round 19-23 :

23sc (5 rows)

Round 24 :

5sc, dec, sc, dec, 13sc (21)

Round 25 :

21sc

Round 26 :

4sc, dec, sc, dec, 12sc (19)

Round 27 :

5sc, dec, 5sc, 4inc, 3sc (22)

Round 28 :

22sc

Round 29 :

11sc, 4dec, 3sc (18)

Round 30 :

4sc, inc, sc, inc, 11sc (20)

Round 31 :

20sc

Round 32 :

6sc, inc, 13sc (21)

Round 33 :

21sc

Round 34 :

6sc, inc, sc, inc, 12sc (23)

Round 35 :

23sc

Round 36 :

8sc, inc, 14sc (24)

Round 37 :

24sc

Round 38 :

9sc, inc, 14sc (25)

Round 39 :

25sc

Round 40 :

10sc, inc, 14sc (26)

Round 41 :

26sc

Round 42 :

11sc, inc, 14sc (27)

Round 43 :

27sc

Round 44 :

12sc, inc, 14sc (28)

Round 45 :

4sc with tan thread, 24sc with white thread (28) *** White rope is used for the leg part of the shorts.

Round 46 :

28sc

Round 47 :

4sc, sl st, finish, break thread. Left leg done.

Section :

Right leg : Follow same instructions as left leg but fill to the right to create protruding calf image. Row counts and stitches mirror left leg. Continue until the 26th row, then follow body joining instructions.

β€” Body :

Info :

IMPORTANT READ! Feet will be bent inward and legs will be turned towards each other (crooked). Continue with the white rope. Baby's shorts are made.

Round 1 :

Continue on the right leg, pull 4ch, sink into the first loop next to the sl st loop we closed on the left leg, and make 14 sc, a Raise, 13 sc into the left leg. Make 4sc on the 4ch. Switching to right leg, make 13 sc, one Raise, 14 sc. Do 4sc on Ch. (66) (This will be the headland)

Round 2-7 :

66sc (6 rows)

Info :

*** Fill the baby's body and leg joints well. Row 8: 15sc, dec, 31sc, dec, 16sc (64)

Round 9 :

14sc, dec, 31sc, dec, 15sc (62)

Round 10 :

13sc, dec, 31sc, dec, 14sc (60)

Round 11 :

12sc, dec, 31sc, dec, 13sc (58)

Round 12 :

11sc, dec, 31sc, dec, 12sc (56)

Round 13 :

10sc, dec, 31sc, dec, 11sc (54)

Round 14 :

9sc, dec, 31sc, dec, 10sc (52)

Round 15 :

8sc, dec, 31sc, dec, 9sc (50)

Round 16 :

7sc, dec, 31sc, dec, 8sc (48)

Round 17 :

6sc, dec, 31sc, dec, 7sc (46)

Round 18 :

5sc, dec, 31sc, dec, 6sc (44)

Round 19 :

4sc, dec, 31sc, dec, 5sc (42)

Round 20 :

3sc, dec, 31sc, dec, 4sc, shorts over, tan to be continued. (40)

Round 21-41 :

40sc (21 row)

Info :

*** At this time, arm joining will be started. Align the ends of the arms to face the body. (The remaining thread at the end of the arms should remain under the arm.)

Round 42 :

12sc, sinking arm and body together 3sc, 17sc, sinking arm and body together 3sc, 5sc (40)

Round 43 :

12sc,9sc on arm, 17sc, 9sc on arm, 5sc (52)

Round 44 :

10sc, dec, 9sc, dec, 13sc, dec, 9sc, dec, 3sc (48)

Round 45 :

10sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 13sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 3sc (44)

Round 46 :

9sc, dec, 2sc, m, 2sc, dec, 11sc, dec, 2sc, m, 2sc, dec, 2sc (36)

Round 47 :

7sc, dec, 2sc, m, 2sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 2sc, m, 2sc, dec (28)

Info :

*** Prepare the wires to be put on the arms by cutting them about 3 cm longer than the arm and taping them as in the image. The end of the wire should be bent in half and taped. *** Fill in the form without disturbing the body. Place the wires on the arms as in the image.

Round 48 :

dec, 3sc, dec, 2sc, m, 2sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 2sc, m, 2sc (20)

Round 49 :

(3sc, dec) *4 (16)

Round 50-53 :

16sc (4 row)

Round 54 :

2sc, sl st, body done. Leave a long thread to sew the head. Lightly fill the groin and shoulders.

Info :

Sewing the Head to the Body: Fold the wire you cut about 35 cm long and tape the ends. Putting half on the body and half on the head; Sew head and body together.

β€” Hair Transplant :

Info :

Hair transplantation technique: The hair rope is wrapped in a book so that the length of a hair strand is about 50 cm and the hair is prepared. (When the hair is folded, it will be around 25 cm.) Double layers of rope will be used in hair transplantation.

Step 1 :

Facial hair transplantation; The hair on the forehead will be planted eight rows above the eyebrow. Find the midpoint on the forehead, aligned with the nose. Draw the forehead line with the flying pen, counting 6 sc from the midpoint to the right and left. Plant 11-12 strands of hair on the forehead.

Info :

***The sides of the face are aligned under the eyes; nine on the right between the eye and the hair (right side when the baby is facing us); hair is planted on the left side, leaving ten sc spacing. Straight planting is done in vertical lines up to the highest point of the eyebrow.

Step 4 :

Hair transplantation to the empty parts; sow by skipping three rows one sc apart. Plant more frequently, skipping two rows at the top. When planting is over, comb the hair and cut to same length. Lightly color cheeks and areas with dry crayons.

β€” T-SHIRT :

Info :

Start with the white rope.

Round 1 :

40ch, starting chain 2 5sc, inc, 8hdcinc, inc, 9sc, inc, 8hdcinc, inc, 5sc, back

Round 2 :

1ch, 59sc , back

β€” Mimosa Baby Clothing :

Round 3 :

1ch, 6sc, inc, 16hdc, inc, 11sc, inc, 16hdc, inc, 6sc, back

Round 4 :

1ch, 63sc, back

Round 5 :

1ch, 7sc, inc, 5hdc, 3hdcdec, 5hdc, inc, 13sc, inc, 5hdc, 3hdcdec, 5hdc, inc,7sc, return

Round 6 :

1ch, 9sc, 3ch and jump 13hdc, 17sc, 3ch and 13hdc Skip, 9sc, back

Round 7 :

1ch, 3sc, inc, 5sc, 3sc to a multiple of 3 chains, 17sc, 3sc to a multiple of 3 chains, 5sc inc, 3sc, back (41) *** Make 3sc using a multiple of 3 chains. For the sleeve end of the t-shirt, sc will be passed to the other floor.

β€” Salopet :

Info :

Start with the purple yarn. In the salopette, the reverse direction of the knitting will be used.

Round 1 :

Pull 59ch, make 52sc starting from 8ch, break the rope.

Info :

*** The 7ch left at the beginning of the chain will be the buttonhole. Cut and reattach rope at row 16 to make dressing comfortable. Knit rows in reverse direction counterclockwise by inserting the crochet from the inside of the knitting.

Round 2 :

Attach the yarn to the first loop. (Insert the buttonhole side.) 1ch, 52sc, break the yarn.

Round 3 :

Attach the thread to the first loop. 1ch, 52sc, break thread.

Round 4 :

Attach the thread to the first loop. 1ch, sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 26sc, inc, 10sc, inc, sc. (56)

Round 5-6 :

Attach the thread to the first loop. 1ch, 56sc, break thread.

Round 7 :

Attach the thread to the first loop. 1ch, 13sc, inc, 28sc, inc, 13sc. (58)

Round 8 :

Attach the thread to the first loop. 1ch, 58sc, break thread.

Round 9 :

Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, sc, inc, 54sc, inc, sc break yarn. (60)

Round 10-16 :

Continue increasing rows as instructed up to row 16 then join and continue. Follow given row counts and increases exactly as written in the pattern images.

β€” Hangers :

Info :

Attach the thread to the first loop of the buttonhole side of the salopette; Pull 1ch and pull 4 sl st, 33ch (hanger) starting from the first stitch on the side. From the 2nd chain, make 32hdc on the hanger and knit into the next loop with sl st.

β€” Pockets :

Round 1 :

pull 9ch, 8sc from chain 2, back

Round 2-3 :

1ch, 8sc, back

Round 4 :

1ch, skip 1sc, 7sc, back

Round 5 :

1ch, 7sc, back

Round 6 :

1ch, skip 1sc , 6sc back

Round 7 :

1ch, 6sc, back

Round 8 :

1ch, skip 1sc, 5sc, done. Leave thread for sewing. Knit the other pocket.

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew the head to the body: fold a wire approx 35 cm, tape ends, place half on the body and half on the head, then sew head and body together securely using the long tail.
  • Attach arms by aligning arm ends with the body at the designated rounds (join at rounds 42-43 where instructions say 'sinking arm and body together'), sew firmly making sure remaining arm thread stays under the arm.
  • Position and sew legs to the body so the feet point inward (crooked). Align legs before joining on the first body round and continue knitting around to join both legs into the shorts.
  • Add hair by following the hair transplant steps: mark forehead midline, plant strands in vertical lines as instructed, comb and trim to even length and lightly color cheeks with dry crayon.
  • Finish clothing assembly: attach t-shirt and salopette ropes, sew buttons in place (3 x 8mm white for back of t-shirt and additional buttons per pattern), sew pockets and hangers as directed.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers and pins to mark eye and facial feature positions precisely before embroidery to ensure symmetry.
  • πŸ’‘Fill pieces evenly every 5-6 rows and shape while stuffing; inconsistent stuffing will distort legs, hips and facial shapes.
  • πŸ’‘When inserting wires for poseability, fold and tape wire ends securely and place them before stuffing to prevent poking and shifting.
  • πŸ’‘Work eye embroidery in stages (basting then final passes) and check shapes oftenβ€”retouch gaps by sinking stitches into the head for a smooth finish.
  • πŸ’‘Weave in ends and leave long tails where instructed for sewing parts together to make assembly easier and neater.

This Mimosa Doll pattern includes everything you need to create a charming, fully dressed amigurumi with embroidered eyes and realistic hair 🌸. From head shaping to hair transplant and clothing, the pattern walks you through every detailed step. Enjoy creating a handmade keepsake that will be treasured for years to come 🧢✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 35 cm tall when using the recommended yarns and hook sizes and following the pattern shaping and stuffing guidance.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but the final size and proportions will change. Use an appropriate hook for your yarn and consider making a gauge swatch to adjust counts if needed.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated advanced because it includes embroidery, wiring, implanted hair and detailed shaping, so experience with amigurumi techniques and finishing is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 12+ hours, though time will vary depending on experience, embroidery speed and how much time you spend on hair planting and finishing.