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Kimono Baby-Kyoko Amigurumi Pattern

Kimono Baby-Kyoko Amigurumi Pattern
3.9★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
1.1K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Kimono Baby-Kyoko Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a delicate kimono-wearing baby doll named Kyoko with a fully crocheted kimono, obi and hair details. You will assemble wired arms, embroidered flowers and a fringed hair style for a finished, posed doll. The pattern includes step-by-step rows and photo references for placement and finishing.

Kimono Baby-Kyoko Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Techniques include working in spirals and rows, front/back loop work, hair strands, and simple embroidery. The pattern is richly illustrated with pictures and charts for accurate placement.

Why You'll Love This Kimono Baby-Kyoko Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it brings together small-amigurumi techniques with beautiful Japanese kimono details that feel special to make. I enjoy the combination of crocheting tiny parts and the creative finishing work—hair strands, obi wrapping and embroidered flowers—to produce a finished piece that looks handmade and refined. The step-by-step rows and photo references helped me place the details confidently, and I appreciate that wiring the arms gives great posing options. Making Kyoko is satisfying because every small step adds to a surprisingly expressive little doll.

Kimono Baby-Kyoko Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Kimono Baby-Kyoko Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Kimono Baby-Kyoko Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Kimono Baby-Kyoko Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how versatile this pattern is for customization! You can change the kimono color to create a whole wardrobe of Kyoko dolls—try pastel tones for a softer look or bright hues for a festive version.

Want a bigger or smaller doll? Adjust your yarn weight and hook size—bulky yarn creates a larger, cuddlier doll while thinner yarn works great for minis and keychains.

I often swap the hair color to create different characters: try auburn, deep brown, or even playful pastel shades for a modern twist on the classic style.

For unique finishes, replace embroidered flowers with tiny beads or French knot flowers to add texture and shine to the kimono hem.

Try substituting wired arm materials for pipe cleaners for a lighter, bendable option that still holds pose well.

I sometimes change the obi design: make it wider, add stripes or a centered bead brooch to match seasons or holiday themes.

Make the zori sandals in contrasting colors and add a small charm or bead to the toe strap for personality.

Experiment with different hair styles—braids, buns, or shorter bob cuts—by varying the hair strand lengths and placement shown in the hair cap chart.

If you want a plush-friendly version, skip wiring the arms and add a little stuffing to make the doll softer and more child-safe, though it changes posing ability.

I also enjoy creating matching mini accessories like a tiny purse or fan to tuck into the doll's hands; adapt the fuguro pattern for a tiny bag or coin purse.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at the end of rows when switching between 'SL, 1CH' rows; place a marker and mark the start of each row to avoid losing your starting point. ✗ Forgetting to leave long yarn ends for sewing and joining pieces such as the obi and obiage; always leave the long end requested so you can sew securely without rejoining. ✗ Not inserting wire into the arms before final assembly will make the arms impossible to pose; insert the wire as instructed before closing the arm opening and do not stuff the arms. ✗ Overstuffing the head and body will distort shaping and make attaching hair and kimono difficult; stuff gradually, especially in the head, and stop when shaping is correct. ✗ Skipping front/back loop changes (BLO/FLO) when instructed can change circumference and placement; follow BLO/FLO notes precisely to match the pattern shaping and embroidery placement.

Kimono Baby-Kyoko Amigurumi Pattern

Make an adorable Kimono Baby Kyoko amigurumi with full, photo-referenced instructions. This pattern walks you through head, body, hair, kimono and accessories so you can recreate the charming doll exactly. Perfect for crafters who love small, detailed projects with lots of finishing touches.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Kimono Baby-Kyoko Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    4 ply acrylic yarn (3# lace yarn) — main colors: Light Blue (approx 1 roll for kimono)
  • 02
    Skin color (4 ply) — small quantities for head, arms, legs (approx 50g)
  • 03
    White (4 ply) — small amount for undergarments and trims
  • 04
    Pink (4 ply) — for obi and obiage details (small amount)
  • 05
    Red (4 ply) — for zori, kanzashi flower (small amount)
  • 06
    Hair color (4 ply) — brown or chosen hair color approx 20-30g
  • 07
    Dark blue and deep pink — for embroidery details (small scraps)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 1.75mm
  • 02
    6mm black safety eyes (2 pieces)
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Yarn needles for sewing
  • 05
    Stitch markers
  • 06
    Polyester stuffing
  • 07
    Thin and thick wire for arms and internal support
  • 08
    Non-woven fabric, hard plastic card for internal support (zori)
  • 09
    Buttons for obiage

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Arm :

Round 1 :

Work in Spiral: Magic ring 6X (6)

Round 2-20 :

6X (6) (Fasten off and leave a LONG end for sewing armpit hole)

Info :

Note: Only put wire in arms - no stuffing

— Leg :

Round 1 :

Work in Spiral: Magic ring 6X (6)

Round 2-15 :

6X (6)

Round 16 :

5X, V (7)

Round 17-18 :

7X (7)

Round 19 :

3X, V, 3X (8)

Round 20-21 :

8X (8)

Round 22 :

7X, V (9)

Round 23 :

4X, V, 4X (10)

Round 24 :

10X (10) (Fasten off)

— Body :

Info :

From now on make a SL and 1CH at the end of each row. Find the middle point on the inside of the legs and make 3CH to join the right leg to left leg at the back

Round 25 :

10X, 3X, 10X, 3X, SL, 1CH (Total 26?)

Round 26 :

26X, SL, 1CH (26)

Round 27 :

24X, A, SL, 1CH (25)

Round 28 :

4X, A, 12X, A, 5X, SL, 1CH (23)

Round 29 :

Change color BLO 21X, A, SL, 1CH (22)

Round 30 :

4X, A, 10X, A, 4X, SL, 1CH (20)

Round 31 :

3X, A, 10X, A, 3X, SL, 1CH (18)

Round 32 :

(X, A) * 6, SL, 1CH (12)

Round 33-41 :

12X, SL, 1CH (12)

Round 42 :

3X, (add ARM: X, A, 3X), 6X, (add ARM: 3X, A, X), 3X, SL, 1CH (22) (See P1.3)

Round 43 :

A, 20X, SL, 1CH (21)

Round 44 :

(X, A) * 7, SL, 1CH (Put in wire and stuff) (14)

Round 45 :

7A, SL, 1CH (7)

Round 46-47 :

7X, SL, 1CH (7)

Round 48 :

V, 6X, SL, 1CH (8)

— Head :

Round 49 :

FLO 8V, SL, 1CH (16)

Round 50 :

(X, V) * 8, SL, 1CH (24)

Round 51 :

(X, V, X) * 8, SL, 1CH (32)

Round 52 :

(3X, V) * 8, SL, 1CH (40)

Round 53 :

(5X, V, 4X) * 4, SL, 1CH (44)

Round 54-63 :

44X, SL, 1CH (44) (Eye position, see pic P6.4)

Round 64 :

10X, A, 20X, A, 10X, SL, 1CH (42)

Round 65 :

(5X, A) * 6, SL, 1CH (36)

Round 66 :

(2X, A, 2X) * 6, SL, 1CH (30)

Round 67 :

(3X, A) * 6, SL, 1CH (24)

Round 68 :

(X, A, X) * 6, SL, 1CH (18) (Stuff)

Round 69 :

(X, A) * 6, SL, 1CH (12)

Round 70 :

6A, SL (Stuff and fasten off) (6)

— Ear :

Round 1 :

Magic ring 4X, SL (Do not join) (Fasten off and leave a LONG end) (5)

Info :

Please see pic for ear placement P6.1

— Nose :

Info :

Please see pic P6.2-P6.3 for nose construction and placement (Nose positioned between Row 56 and 57)

— Hair (Cap) :

Info :

Make a SL and 1CH at the end of each round

Round 1 :

Magic ring 3CH, 11F, SL, 1CH (3CH = 1F) (12)

Round 2 :

3CH, F, 11FV, SL, 1CH (24)

Round 3 :

3CH, FV, (F, FV) * 11, SL, 1CH (36)

Round 4 :

3CH, F, FV, (2F, FV) * 11, SL, 1CH (48)

Round 5 :

48F, SL, 1CH (48)

Round 6 :

48T, SL (DO NOT fasten off and c'nue)

— Hair Strand :

Rows 1-16 :

26CH, turn to 2nd st, SL, 15X, 9T, skip 1 st and make SL at reverse direction (see pic) — 16 strands

Rows 17-24 :

26CH, turn to 2nd st, SL, 15X, 9T, skip 1 st and make SL at outside stitch (DO NOT fasten off and c'nue) — 8 strands

— Hair Bang :

Info :

Make a SL to next inside stitch at the end of each round

Row 1 :

24CH, turn to 2nd st, 23SL (1 strand)

Row 2 :

24CH, turn to 2nd st, 23SL (1 strand)

Row 3 :

12CH, turn to 2nd st, 11SL (1 strand)

Row 4 :

13CH, turn to 2nd st, 12SL (1 strand)

Row 5 :

14CH, turn to 2nd st, 13SL (1 strand)

Rows 6-7 :

(2 hair strands in each st) 14CH, turn to 2nd st, 13SL (2 strands)

Rows 8-9 :

(2 hair strands in each st) 15CH, turn to 2nd st, 14SL (2 strands)

Rows 10-11 :

(2 hair strands in each st) 16CH, turn to 2nd st, 15SL (2 strands)

Rows 12-13 :

(2 hair strands in each st) 15CH, turn to 2nd st, 14SL (2 strands)

Rows 14-15 :

(2 hair strands in each st) 14CH, turn to 2nd st, 13SL (2 strands)

Row 16 :

14CH, turn to 2nd st, 13SL (1 strand)

Row 17 :

13CH, turn to 2nd st, 12SL (1 strand)

Row 18 :

12CH, turn to 2nd st, 11SL (1 strand)

Row 19 :

26CH, turn to 2nd st, 25SL (1 strand)

Row 20 :

26CH, turn to 2nd st, 25SL (Fasten off) (1 strand)

— Haneri :

Info :

Leave LONG LONG yarn and start Work in Rows

Row 1 :

31CH, turn to 2nd st, 30X, 1CH & turn (30)

Row 2 :

X, skip 1 st, 26X, skip 1 st, 1X, 1CH & turn (28)

Row 3 :

X, skip 1 st, 24X, skip 1 st, 1X, 1CH & turn (26)

Row 4 :

X, skip 1 st, 22X, skip 1 st, 1X, 1CH & turn (24)

Info :

Crochet downward 3X (Fasten off and leave a LONG end) (See P7.1)

— Kimono :

Row 1 :

Work in Rows: 19CH, turn to 2nd st, (X, V, X) * 6, 1CH & turn (24)

Row 2 :

X, V, 20X, V, X, 1CH & turn (26)

Row 3 :

X, V, 22X, V, X, 1CH & turn (28)

Row 4 :

X, V, 24X, V, X, 1CH & turn (30)

Row 5 :

X, V, 2X, 3CH, skip 7 sts, 8X, 3CH, skip 7 sts, X, 2V, X, 1CH & turn (25) (See P7.3)

Row 6-11 :

25X, 1CH & turn (25)

Row 12 :

25X, 3CH, turn to 2nd st (28)

Row 13 :

3X, (V, 2X) * 8, 1CH & turn (35)

Row 14 :

35X, 1CH & turn (35)

Row 15 :

3X, (V, 3X) * 8, 1CH & turn (43)

Row 16-51 :

43X, 1CH & turn (43)

Row 52 :

43X (Fasten off)

Row 53 :

BLO 43SL (Fasten off) (See P7.5)

— Sleeve (Left/B) :

Rows 1-2 :

Work in Rounds: Start crochet from middle of inner 12X, SL, 1CH (12)

Round 3 :

11X, V, SL, 1CH (13)

Round 4 :

13X, SL, 1CH (13)

Round 5 :

V, 12X, SL, 1CH (14)

Round 6 :

33CH, turn to 2nd st, 32X, 14X, SL, 1CH (46) (See P8.3)

Round 7-18 :

32X + 32X + 14X, SL, 1CH (78) (See P8.4)

Round 19 :

32X + 32X + 14X, SL (Fasten off and leave a LONG LONG end) (78)

Round 20 :

Cuff: (see pic) BLO 22F (Fasten off) (See P8B)

— Sleeve (Right/A) :

Rows 1-2 :

Work in Rounds: Start crochet from middle of inner 12X, SL, 1CH (12)

Round 3 :

11X, V, SL, 1CH (13)

Round 4 :

13X, SL, 1CH (13)

Round 5 :

V, 12X, SL, 1CH (14)

Round 6 :

14X, 33CH, turn to 2nd st, 32X, SL, 1CH (46) (See P8.3)

Round 7-18 :

32X + 32X + 14X, SL, 1CH (78)

Round 19 :

32X + 32X + 14X, SL (Fasten off and leave a LONG LONG end) (78)

Round 20 :

Cuff: (see pic) BLO 22F (Fasten off) (See P8B)

Info :

IMPORTANT NOTE: Crochet the cuff and do embroidery before you sew the sleeves (see P9.2)

— Collar :

Row 1 :

(see pic) 1CH, 7T, crochet up 7T, 4TV, 7T, crochet down 14T, SL (Fasten off) (See P9.3) (44)

Row 2 :

(see pic) Crochet loosely BLO 44SL along the row 1 (Fasten off) (See P9.4) (44)

— Obiage :

Row 1 :

Wok in Rows: 28CH, turn to 2nd st, 27X, 1CH & turn (27)

Row 2-6 :

27T, 1CH & turn (27)

Round 7 :

27X, crochet down X, 7CH, 6X, 7CH, X, SL (Fasten off) (See P10.1)

— Obi :

Info :

Leave LONG yarn (for sew and join the obiage) and start Work in Rows

Row 1 :

32CH, turn to 2nd st, 31X, 1CH & turn (31)

Row 2 :

31X, 1CH & turn (31)

Row 3 :

FLO 31X, 1CH & turn (31)

Row 4 :

31X, 1CH & turn (31)

Row 5 :

FLO 31X, 1CH & turn (31)

Row 6 :

31X, 1CH & turn (31)

Row 7 :

FLO 31X, 1CH & turn (31)

Row 8 :

31X (Fasten off and leave a LONG LONG end) (31)

Info :

Sew the Obi to middle of the Obiage and sew two buttons to Obiage (See P10.2 - P10.3)

— Obijime :

Row 1 :

130CH (Fasten off) (130)

— Obi(back) :

Row 1 :

Work in Rows: 56CH, turn to 2nd st, 55X, 1CH & turn (55)

Row 2-3 :

Change color: 55X, 1CH & turn (55) (Pink)

Row 4-5 :

Change color: 55X, 1CH & turn (55) (White)

Row 6-7 :

Change color: 55X, 1CH & turn (55) (Pink)

Row 8 :

Change color: 55X, 1CH, crochet round the whole circumference 7X, W, 53X, W, 6X, W, 53X, V, SL (Fasten off) (185)

— Embroidery :

Info :

Flower embroider on Kimono and sleeves (see pic and chart P11-P13). Embroider 8 flowers in Pink + D.Blue as shown in the reference pictures and grid placement.

— Tabi :

Round 1 :

Work in Rounds: 5CH, turn to 2nd st, 3X, W, 3X, SL, 1CH (9)

Round 2 :

V, 2X, 3V, 2X, V, SL, 1CH (14)

Round 3 :

BLO 14X, SL, 1CH (14)

Round 4 :

4X, 3TA, 4X, SL, 1CH (11)

Round 5-7 :

11X, SL, 1CH (11)

Round 8 :

11X, SL (Fasten off) (11)

— Zori :

Round 1 :

Work in Rounds: 5CH, turn to 2nd st, 3X, W, 3X, SL, 1CH (9)

Round 2 :

V, 2X, 3V, 2X, V, SL (14)

Round 3 :

(see pic) Put in shoe support, join the 3A; crochet loosely BLO + FLO 14SL (Fasten off & leave a LONG LONG end for Zori string) (14)

— Fuguro (Pouch) :

Round 1 :

Magic Ring 8X, SL, 1CH (8)

Round 2 :

7TV, T, SL, 1CH (15)

Round 3 :

15X, SL, 1CH (15)

Round 4 :

3CH, 14F, SL, 1CH (15) (3CH = 1F)

Round 5 :

15X, SL, 1CH (15)

Round 6 :

(2X, 2CH, skip 1 st) * 5, SL, 1CH (15) (2CH = 1 st)

Round 7 :

(3CH, X) * 15, SL (Fasten off) (76)

String Row 1 :

80CH (80) (Fasten off) - white string for closure

— Kanzashi Flower :

Row 1 :

Work in Rows: 50CH, turn to 8th st, F, (2CH, skip 2 sts, F) * 14, 1CH & turn (43) (Red)

Row 2 :

(Crochet in hole 5F, SL) * 15 (Fasten off) (90)

— Leaf*2 :

Round 1 :

Work in Rounds: 10CH, turn to 2nd st, 2X, 2T, F, FV, F, T, (X, 'X,3CH,SL', X), T, F, FV, F, 2T, 2X, SL (Fasten off) (21) (Dark Blue)

— Tassel :

Info :

See picture for tassel construction and attachment (use glue and tidy as shown) (See P16-P17)

Assembly Instructions

  • Join the two legs at the back: find the middle point on the inside of the legs and make 3CH to join the right leg to the left leg at the back before continuing the body at Row 25.
  • Insert wire into both arms before closing the arm opening and fasten off; arms should have wire only and no stuffing, then sew the armpit hole to secure the arm in place.
  • Sew head to body after stuffing and shaping; stuff the head firmly before completing the final rounds and fasten off with a long tail for sewing.
  • Place safety eyes between rows 57 and 58 (refer to picture P6.4 for exact spacing), then embroider nose and mouth using the reference pictures for position.
  • Attach kimono, obi and obiage by pinning into position first; sew the obi to the middle of the obiage and add buttons as shown in the pictures for an accurate finish.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers and SL, 1CH at the end of rows to keep track of row starts and edges for sewing.
  • 💡Only put wire into arms; do not stuff arms as specified to allow posing and avoid hard lumps.
  • 💡Embroider the cuff and sleeves before sewing the sleeves to the body to ensure neat embroidery placement.
  • 💡Leave long yarn tails when instructed for sewing and joining parts such as the obi, obiage and ear placement.

This Kimono Baby Kyoko pattern is a delightful project that creates a charming, poseable doll with a handcrafted kimono and embroidered details. It combines amigurumi stitches with simple garment construction and pretty hair techniques to make a special keepsake. Whether you make it for display or a thoughtful gift, Kyoko will bring handmade joy to any shelf. 🧶✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 19 cm tall when using the recommended 4-ply yarn and 1.75 mm hook, including the hairband.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size. Use an appropriate hook size for your chosen yarn and expect a change in scale and stitch counts.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of crochet stitches, working in spirals, and simple shaping techniques is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crafters complete this project over multiple sessions; expect roughly 12-15 hours depending on experience and how much time you spend on embroidery and finishing.

Where should I place the eyes and ears?

Place the safety eyes between Rows 57 and 58 (refer to photo P6.4). Attach ears around Row 57-58 area as shown in the assembly pictures.