Make a cozy Gryffindor-inspired colorwork hat featuring bold stripes, an optional two-toned ribbed brim, and full graph designs (Harry and Yoda/HP logos). This intermediate crochet pattern walks you through waistcoat stitch colorwork, bobbin use, two brim options, and finishing details so you can create a polished fan-favorite hat. Perfect for gifting or adding magical flair to your winter wardrobe, the pattern includes full rounds and graph instructions for accurate shaping.
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— Stitch Guide :
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Waistcoat stitch- (also known as center post stitch) The trick with this stitch is to insert your hook in the middle of the post, just under the inverted "v," pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull your hook through both loops.
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Waistcoat stitch decrease- Insert your hook into the "v" of the first stitch, pull up a loop, insert your hook in the "v" of the second stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull your hook through all three loops.
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Backwards join- Remove hook and insert hook into the back of the beginning stitch. Turn work around backwards. Pull working loop through to the inside of the hat. Do not ch1. Instead, pull the yarn up a bit to loosen, making it easier to start the next stitch. Turn work around forwards.
— Abbreviations :
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ch = chain. st = stitch. sl st = slip stitch. sc = single crochet. blo = back loop only. bb = back bump. wcs = waistcoat stitch. wcsdec = waistcoat stitch decrease. FO = fasten off. ** = marks the repeats around. () = final stitch count.
— Size :
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Fits most. Teen-adult size hat measurements: 8 1/2" long x 10" wide at widest point. Use the following hook size for the hat size you are making with the body of the hat directions: Child ages 6-10 or head circumference of 16"-20 1/2", I/9 (5.5mm). Ages 11 & up or head circumference of 20"-22", J/10 (6mm). Adult large or head circumference of 23"-24", K/10.5 (6.5mm).
— Gauge :
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7 wcs x 8 rounds = 2" with 6mm hook. 8 wcs x 8 rounds = 2" with 5.5mm hook.
— Supplies :
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Worsted medium weight yarn (#4) in desired colors. Yarns used: I Love This Yarn in Sungold (15 yards), Aubergine (106 yards), Mid Green (17 yards), Pink (2 yards), Black (14 yards), Light Peach (12 yards), Greybeard (2 yards). 145-160 total yards used. Crochet hooks 7 (4.5mm), I/9 (5.5mm), J/10 (6mm), K/10.5 (6.5mm). Yarn needle for hiding threads. Scissors. Bobbins. Faux fur pompom for the top of the hat. Stitch marker.
— Pattern Notes :
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Please read through the entirety of this pattern before starting. The techniques you need to know are: the waistcoat stitch, color change, backwards join, carry yarn, and follow a graph. I have added videos of these techniques on my Facebook page, "Jennifer's Stitched Up." Access my page with the hyperlink below. I also have a Facebook Group that has many supportive crochet artists that offer help with questions you may have. Join my group, "Stitched Up Community," for access to free patterns and share your finished projects with us. Use the following tag @jennifersstitchedup. Waistcoat stitch along with the graph. Use loose tension when making the WCS. This helps with ease of insertion into the "v" of the stitch.
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Using a pointed style crochet hook will help you grab the bar of the "v" portion of the stitch, then when pulling your hook to the right of the "v," or to the left when crocheting left-handed. This will help straighten the stitch. You will automatically color change, carry yarn, if joining-backwards join, or move stitch marker up in every round. This is not stated after each set of directions. You can use the backwards join (this join looks best with the waistcoat stitch) each round or continue around using a stitch marker to keep your place. The backwards join was added for those that like to join each round. I prefer to work without joining to keep the hat seamless. Various yarns, even though worsted, and varied tensions can change the measurements of this pattern. Do not pull carried yarn at a tight tension. This will cause the hat to not have any stretch. You can try the hat on to check and make sure you are not doing this or you will need to rip it out and start over. It does not have to have a neat, clean look on the inside of the hat. Rounds are numbered on the left & right of the graph. Stitches are numbered on the bottom of the graph, with the option of working the graph left to right or right to left. Decrease rounds are highlighted with the stitch count next to the round. Use the hyperlinks below to find me on social media, purchase patterns, and purchase faux fur pompoms.
— Bobbins :
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How to use bobbins: Pick up bobbin when needed, adding that color. Drop after use. When needed again in the following round pick back up and pull across the stitches, working over the strand you just picked back up and pulled across. Note: when picking it up and pulling it back across the stitches to use for the next round, you will need to make sure that it is not pulled tight by leaving some slack to work over. This will prevent it from puckering. Continue working in this fashion with each color, as it is not stated after each set of directions.
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Make bobbins for the back side of either design you make. You can work from the skein on the front portion of the design. Use approximately 20" pieces of your scarf colors. Place each stripe of the scarf color in the first stitch added using this tail working upwards to complete that stripe. Do this for front and back design. You will use your bobbins at each place and just crochet along with the graph for this pattern.
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These graph pictures show bobbin placement for best outcome and less bulk. Depending on which hand you crochet with, you might need to make adjustments and place them on the opposite sides instead.
— Brim :
Item Name (P1) :
Brim: Options include Ribbed & Slip Stitch
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Two-toned ribbed brim (This brim is used for the cover photo) Fits most. For all sizes use a 4.5mm hook for brim. With brim color and 4.5mm hook ch 9,
Round R1 :
sc in 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, ch1, turn (8)
Round R2 :
sc, sc in BLO next 6, sc ending with a color change, with alternate color ch1, turn (8)
Round R3 :
sc, sc in BLO next 6, sc (8)
Round R4 :
sc, sc in BLO next 6, sc ending with a color change, with alternate color ch1, turn (8)
Round R5-60 :
Repeat rows 3 and 4
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Align the brim and slst into both back loops only from each brim side to seam shut. Adjustments can be made here. Try the brim on to check fit. If you need to take out rows or add rows this will change the directions up a bit. The end goal is to have the graph stitch count needed before working the hat design.
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Switch to hook size needed for hat. 5.5mm child, 6mm teen-adult, 6.5mm large adult.
Round R61 :
* Sc next 9, scinc* around the brim. (66) Backwards join.
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Picture shows color changes at the top. Each color is used for 2 rows.
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Slip Stitch Brim Fits most. For all sizes use a 4.5mm hook for brim. With brim color and 4.5mm hook ch 9,
Round R1 :
slst in bb of 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, ch1, turn. (8)
Round R2 :
slst blo across, ch1, turn each row to desired length. (8) (13" for child, 14" for teen-adult, 15" for large adult.) I use 14 inches for myself. This style brim is very stretchy.
Round R3 :
Align the brim and slst into both back loops only from each brim side.
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Switch to hook size needed for hat. 5.5mm child, 6mm teen-adult, 6.5mm large adult.
Round R4 :
Sc around the brim, attempting to get to 66sts before you start the graph. (I usually sc next 2, scinc,) Backwards join, ch1. (66) The end goal is to get the stitch count needed for the graph. You can count your rows and figure out how many increases you will need to add, then make them accordingly. If you did not get the amount of stitches needed, this design allows you to easily add increases to the next round to obtain the 66 stitches used.
— Body of Hat :
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Child-Adult child I/9 (5.5mm) teen-adult J/10 (6mm) large adult K/10.5 (6.5mm)
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Body of Hat: Continue with hook needed for hat size you are making. Make color changes along with the graph. Crochet the wcs, using loose tension throughout. Work continuously without joining. Use a stitch marker to keep your place.
Round R1-17 :
With all colors, follow along with the graph, using the bobbin directions. (66)
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Start of decreasing rounds Friendly reminder, keep the decreases loose. It is easy to tighten tension while decreasing.
Round R18 :
*wcs next 9, wcsdec* around (60)
Round R19 :
*wcs* around (60)
Round R20 :
*wcs next 4, wcsdec* around (50)
Round R21 :
*wcs* around (50)
Round R22 :
*wcs next 3, wcsdec*around (40)
Round R23 :
*wcs* around (40)
Round R24 :
*wcs next 2, wcsdec* around (30)
Round R25 :
*wcs*around (30)
Round R26 :
*wcs, wcsdec* around (20) Child size only FO, leaving a tail, cinch and sew closed.
Round R27 :
*wcs*around (20)
Round R28 :
*wcsdec* around (10)
Round R29 :
*wcs*around (10)
Round R30 :
*wcsdec* around (5) FO. Leave a long tail for cinching then sew closed.
— Detailing :
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Using the graph for placement of details: Split a piece of black worsted, (or you can even use sport weight). Using only 3 strands of the worsted and a yarn needle sew on the glasses. Do the same with the scar, in red. Then black or brown for the wand, on both front and back sides. With gold add a spark onto the wand tip on both front and back sides.
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Decrease rounds are highlighted in yellow. The stitch count of the decrease rounds are next to the highlights. Follow the graph from either left or right side. Rounds are numbered on the left and right of the graph. Stitches are numbered at the bottom of the graph.
This gilded Gryffindor-inspired hat brings magic to your winter wardrobe with bold colorwork and a cozy fit. ✨ Handcrafted details and full graphs let you personalize the look with ease for fans and gift-givers alike. Whether you pick the ribbed brim or the slip-stitch brim, this pattern delivers a warm, magical finish. 🧶🎁
