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Cumulus Cardigan Pattern

Cumulus Cardigan Pattern
4.1★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
4.1K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

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Layered Comfort

Perfect for cozy, stylish layering through changing seasons with versatile, mix-and-match potential.

About This Cumulus Cardigan Pattern

This pattern creates an oversized, slouchy cardigan with bishop-style sleeves and a ribbed texture across all panels. You will make five separate pieces — one back panel, two front panels, and two sleeves — then join them with a flat SLST granny join for neat seams. The pattern is graded for three sizes and includes instructions for creating a custom fit using your measurements.

Cumulus Cardigan Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Clear step-by-step rows and photographed tutorials are included to guide you through ribbing, cuff construction, and seaming. A gauge and yarn estimate are provided so you can achieve the pictured oversized look or easily customize your own.

Why You'll Love This Cumulus Cardigan Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines simple stitches into a beautifully modern ribbed fabric that still feels cozy and luxurious. I enjoy how versatile the design is — you can make a relaxed oversized version or scale it to a more fitted piece by adjusting your foundation chains. The seaming technique (flat SLST granny join) produces a crisp, professional finish that I always aim for in wearable pieces. I also love that the pattern includes clear photos and measurement guidance so you can confidently make a custom fit.

Cumulus Cardigan Pattern step 1 - construction progress Cumulus Cardigan Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Cumulus Cardigan Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Cumulus Cardigan Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love changing the color layout of this cardigan to make each panel pop; try three complementary shades for a bold colorblock or tonal shades for a subtle look.

I sometimes use a slightly thicker sport-weight yarn and a larger hook to create a chunkier, cozier version that works up faster and is perfect for winter layering.

I will adjust the cuff height by making more or fewer SLST rows so the sleeve silhouette changes from slim to dramatic bishop shape.

I often shorten or lengthen the body by changing the number of rows for the back panel — just keep the same foundation chain multiple if you need to maintain patterning.

For a mini version suitable as a gift or keychain sweater, I choose a thinner yarn and smaller hook and reduce row counts proportionally.

I enjoy adding embroidered details or small appliques to the front panels to personalize the cardigan; simple surface embroidery can add a lot of character.

To make the cardigan more fitted, I decrease the foundation chain and work fewer rows, checking fit as I go on a dress form or on myself.

I sometimes replace the flat SLST granny join with a narrow whipstitch when I want a slightly softer seam line rather than the braided look of the SLST.

I add optional front ties or small buttons at the ribbing if I want an alternate closure; the pattern includes a brief optional tie method you can adapt in length.

I recommend experimenting with different hook materials (wood vs metal) as they affect drape; I prefer a smooth metal hook for sport-weight yarn to keep the ribbing crisp and even.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the gauge swatch can lead to a cardigan that does not fit as expected; make a 4x4 inch swatch using 21 SC BLO x 22 rows to check your tension before starting. ✗ Forgetting to turn your work consistently on ribbing rows will create mismatched rib edges; always turn your work in the same direction when instructed to keep the ribbing straight. ✗ Fastening off at the end of panels prevents you from using the tail to join pieces later; instead leave a long yarn tail for the back panel and one front panel to use as the working yarn for seaming. ✗ Not measuring panels while working may result in uneven sizing for custom fits; measure the width and height of your panels as you go and compare to your intended Back Panel width.

Cumulus Cardigan Pattern

Make an oversized, slouchy Cumulus Cardigan with this clear, photographed crochet pattern designed to teach you a ribbed look using basic stitches. You will learn how to work panels, cuffs, and sleeves, then join them with a flat SLST granny join for crisp seams. The pattern is graded for multiple sizes and includes guidance for custom measurements so you can tailor the fit to your body.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Cumulus Cardigan Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    4ply Milk cotton yarn or any Size 2 Sport Weight yarn
  • 02
    Estimated yarn amount XS-S: approximately 700-750g / 1980-2130 yards
  • 03
    Estimated yarn amount M-L: approximately 800-850g / 2270-2410 yards
  • 04
    Estimated yarn amount XL-2XL: approximately 900-950g / 2550-2690 yards

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 4.0mm
  • 02
    Stitch markers
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Measuring tape
  • 05
    Darning/tapestry needle for weaving ends

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Measurement, Materials, Abbreviation, and Gauge :

Info :

Materials: 4ply Milk cotton yarn or any Size 2 Sport Weight yarn. 4mm crochet hook. Stitch markers. Scissors. Measuring tape. Darning needle.

Info :

Gauge: 21 SC BLO x 22 rows = 4 x 4 inches. Note: Creating a gauge swatch before starting your project is highly encouraged, especially if you will be using a different kind of yarn and hook size from what is recommended.

— Overview :

Info :

The cardigan is composed of a total of 5 pieces worked separately: one back panel, two front panels, and two sleeves. Each piece will end with a row of SLST(s) and will be joined together using the flat SLST granny join method. The diagram shows the direction in which the pieces should be worked and the total number of rows and stitches per row needed for each size (XS/S, M/L, XL/XXL).

— Back Panel :

Foundation Chain :

(111,121,131)

Number of Rows :

(153,175,197)

— Front Panels :

Foundation Chain :

(111,121,131)

Number of Rows :

(57,67,77)

— Sleeves :

Foundation Chain :

76

Number of Rows :

(113,129,145)

— Front/Back Panel and Ribbing :

Foundation Chain :

CH (111,121,131). For custom sizing: CH until you reach your Front and Back Panel Foundation Chain length and CH 1.

Row 1 :

Starting from the 2nd CH from the hook SLST 15, SC until the end of the row. You should end with a total of (110,120,130) ST(s). CH 1, and turn.

Tip :

Insert your hook into the back ridge of the CH for a neater look.

Row 2 :

SC 1, SC BLO across until 15 CHS REM, SLST BLO 14, SLST 1, CH 1, and turn.

Tip :

Turn your work in the same direction every time you reach this point in the piece, this will ensure that the ends of your ribbing have a consistently nice and straight edge.

Row 3 :

SLST 1, SLST BLO 14, SC BLO across until 1 CH REM, SC 1, CH 1, and turn your work.

Repeat :

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you complete (153,175,197) rows for the back panel and (57,67,77) rows for the front panels.

Info :

For the back panel and just one of the front panels, do not fasten off; instead secure the last stitch with a stitch marker and leave a trail of yarn that is at least 4 times as long as the width of your piece; that will be used to join the pieces/panels together.

Edging :

This is done in preparation for the joining of pieces and to ensure minimal to no visible gaps in the seams. You will need to SLST into each stitch of the top side of your panel.

— Cuff and Sleeve :

Info :

Like the front/back piece, each row is divided into 2 sections, the cuff and the sleeve section. The cuff will be the section worked using SLST(s) and SLST BLO stitches, while the sleeve section will be worked using SC(s) and SC BLO stitches.

Foundation Chain :

CH 76. For custom sizing: CH until you reach your Sleeve Foundation Chain length and CH 1.

Row 1 :

Starting from the 2nd CH from the hook SLST 15, SC across the row until 1 CH REM, SC 1. You should end with a total of 75 ST(s). CH 1 and turn.

Info :

For custom sizing: Instead of making 15 SLST(s), make as much as you would like the height of the cuff to be, and then make SC(s) on the rest of the remaining ST(s) of the row. CH 1 and turn.

Tip :

Insert your hook into the back ridge of the CH for a neater look.

Rows 2 :

SC 1, SC BLO 58, SC 1. You should end with a total of 60 ST(s). CH 1, and turn.

Row 3 :

Repeat row 2.

Row 4 :

SC 1, SC BLO 58, On CH 60 insert your hook through the last ST of the 3rd, 2nd, and 1st row, yarn over and pull through 2 CH(s), and then yarn over and pull through 2 loops. SLST BLO 14, SLST 1. You should end with a total of 75 ST(s). CH 1 and turn. (See photos 1-11 in page 6 or watch the quick tutorial here: https://youtu.be/NCWktH0rmvQ)

Tip :

Turn your work in the same direction every time you reach this point in the piece, this will ensure that the ends of your ribbing have a consistently nice and straight edge.

Row 5 :

SLST 1, SLST BLO 14, SC 1, SC BLO 58, SC 1. You should end with a total of 75 ST(s). CH 1, and turn. Repeat rows 2-5 until you have a total of (113,129,145) rows on your sleeve section.

Info :

For custom sizing - Row 5: Repeat rows 2-5 until you meet your desired cuff width and make sure you end with an odd number of rows. When measuring your cuff make sure that your cuff lays on a flat surface and is not overly stretched out vertically.

Info :

Edging: After ending your last row with a CH 1, do not turn your work and SLST into each space of the top edge of your work starting from the first space of the last stitch of your last row. Do not fasten off, instead secure unfinished ST with a stitch marker and leave a trail of yarn that is at least 4 times as long as the length of your sleeve; this will be used later on to close up the sleeves.

— Sleeves Right Side :

Info :

The right side of the sleeves shows the braided side of the SLST.

— Sleeves Wrong Side :

Info :

The wrong side of the sleeves shows "bumps" that separate the sleeve from the cuff.

— Seaming and Ribbing :

Info :

To join the pieces we will be using the flat SLST granny join method. The right side of the front and back panels, and the sleeves should show the braided side of the SLST.

Attaching the Left Front Panel to the Back Panel (P1) :

In this step you will be joining the front panel with the excess yarn from the edge of the to the back panel. The excess yarn from the front panel's edge will act as the working yarn to join the pieces together. Lay your pieces, right sides facing up. Taking the front panel, re-insert your hook into the last unfinished stitch of the edge, and make sure that your working yarn is under the pieces. Insert your hook into the 2nd CH from the hook and through the 1st SLST of the back panel. Yarn over and pull through both ST(s) and through the first loop on your hook. (See photos 1-8 in page 8 or watch the quick tutorial here: https://youtu.be/KRNf1KvQDl8)

Attaching the Left Front Panel to the Back Panel - Next Step :

On the next stitch, insert your hook into the loop nearest the back panel and through the loop nearest front panel, yarn over and pull through all loops. Repeat this step until you only have one stitch left on the front panel. On the last stitch insert your hook through the last SLST from the front panel and on the next stitch from the back panel, yarn over and pull through both stitches and the last loop, CH1 and fasten off. Make sure to leave a trail long enough to weave in.

Attaching the Right Front Panel to the Back Panel (P1) :

In this step you will be joining the back panel to the front panel. The excess yarn from the back panel's edge will act as the working yarn to join the pieces together. Lay your pieces, right sides facing up. Taking the back panel, re-insert your hook into the last unfinished stitch of the edge, and make sure that your working yarn is under the pieces. Insert your hook into the 2nd SLST from the hook and through the 1st SLST of the front panel. Yarn over and pull through both ST(s) and through the first loop on your hook. On the next stitch, insert your hook into the loop nearest the front panel and through the loop nearest back panel, yarn over and pull through all loops. Repeat this step until you only have one stitch left on the front panel. On the last stitch insert your hook through the SLST from the back panel and on the last stitch from the front panel, yarn over and pull through both stitches and the last loop, CH1 and fasten off. Make sure to leave a trail long enough to weave in.

Attaching the Sleeves to the Front and Back Panel (P1) :

Before the sleeves are attached to the front and back panels you must create an edge across the entire length of the body. If you are working on the left side of the body, start the edge from the bottom of the front piece, and if you are working on the right side start from the bottom of the back piece. Edging of the body piece: create a slip knot and SLST into each ST across the body starting from the very first ST of the row. Once you reach the seam between the back and front panel SLST into the last ST before the seam and SLST into the first ST after the seam and across the entire row, CH 1. Do not fasten off, secure unfinished ST with a stitch marker. (See photos 10.5-10.8 in page 10 and across the entire row, CH 1. Do not fasten off, secure unfinished ST with a stitch marker.)

Attaching the Sleeves - Centering :

To ensure that your sleeve is centered you need to subtract the number of SLST(s) on the edging of the sleeves from the edging of the body pieces, divide the difference by 2 to determine the number of STS you need to skip on the body piece. Example in pattern: Number of STS across the body piece's edge (STS BPE) = 240. Number of STS across the sleeve's edge (STS SE) = 146. Difference = 94. Quotient = 94/2 = 47. Start joining your sleeve on the 48th ST of the body piece's edge.

Info :

To join the body piece to the sleeves follow photos in page 8 and 9 (or watch the quick tutorial here: https://youtu.be/UH6PLdM5hpl). The excess yarn from the sleeve's edge will act as the working yarn to join the pieces together. At the end of the sleeve do not fasten off, instead secure unfinished ST with a stitch marker and make sure to leave a trail 4 times as long as the length of your sleeve; this will later on be used to close up the sleeves.

Closing up the sides of the cardigan and the sleeves :

In this step you will be using the excess yarn from the edge of the body piece and the excess yarn from the sleeve's and the body piece's seam. Follow photos in page 8 and 9 to start joining the body piece together. Once you reach the last ST before the sleeves section, insert your hook into the unfinished stitch of the sleeve's seam, pull through the loop and continue joining the sleeves. (See photos 1-4 in page 12)

— Ribbing :

Info :

The ribbing consists of SLST(s) across the inner sides of the front panels and the neck line starting from the bottom of the right panel. For custom sizing: Increase/decrease the number of rows for a thicker/thinner ribbing.

Row 1 :

Create a slip knot and SLST into each ST across the body starting from the very first ST of the row. Once you reach the front and back panel seam, SLST into the next available CH after the seam, continue to SLST across the front panel and then CH1, and turn.

Row 2 :

SLST 1, SLST FLO across until 1 REM, SLST, CH1, and turn.

Row 3 :

SLST 1, SLST BLO across until 1 REM, SLST CH1, and turn. Repeat to achieve your desired thickness. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Optional :

Adding front ties Row 4: SLST BLO until the closing point where you would like to have the ties, CH until it measure 13 inches or your desired length, skip 1 CH and SLST on each CH across, SLST BLO until you reach the closing point on the opposing side, CH the same number as on the right side, skip 1 CH and SLST on each CH across, SLST BLO across until 1 REM, SLST1, CH1 and fasten off.

— Finishing :

Info :

Weave in all loose ends. Block lightly if desired to relax ribbing and even out shape. Ensure all seams are secured and tails are woven in.

Info :

The pattern ends with photos showing SLST placement at the seams to illustrate the finished joining. End.

Assembly Instructions

  • Join one front panel to the back panel using the excess yarn from the unfinished edge of the front panel; insert your hook through the unfinished edge, then through the first SLST of the back panel, yarn over and pull through both ST(s) to begin the flat SLST granny join.
  • Join the opposite front panel to the back panel using the same flat SLST granny join method, repeating insertion into the loop nearest each panel until one stitch remains, then finish by CH1 and fastening off, leaving a tail to weave in.
  • Create edging across the entire top edge of the body and use the excess yarn from the sleeve edge to join each sleeve to the body; center the sleeve by subtracting ST counts and starting the join on the calculated stitch (example: start on 48th ST in the provided example).
  • Close up the sides of the cardigan and the sleeves by continuing the flat SLST granny join along the side seams; secure unfinished stitches with a stitch marker and leave yarn tails long enough to weave in and close sleeve openings.

Important Notes

  • 💡Make a gauge swatch (21 SC BLO x 22 rows = 4 x 4 inches) before beginning to ensure the oversized fit and correct stitch tension.
  • 💡Do not fasten off the back panel and one front panel; instead leave a long working tail (about four times the width) to use for joining panels with the flat SLST granny join.
  • 💡Turn your work consistently in the same direction when working the ribbing edges to keep a straight, even ribbed edge.

This Cumulus Cardigan pattern helps you craft a roomy, modern cardigan with soft ribbed texture and beautifully finished seams. Whether you follow the graded sizes or customize your measurements, the step-by-step photos and join method make assembly simple and satisfying. Have fun creating a piece you will reach for again and again. 🧶✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The pattern is graded for XS/S, M/L, and XL/XXL with layout measurements provided; final size will depend on your gauge and chosen yarn, so make the gauge swatch to confirm.

Can I use a different yarn weight for this cardigan?

Yes, but changing yarn weight will affect the final size and drape; adjust your hook size and make a new gauge swatch if you choose a different yarn weight.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; you should be comfortable with single crochet, slip stitch, working in back loops only, and following row counts and seaming instructions.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters will spend about 12-15 hours on this cardigan depending on size, stitch speed, and whether you create a custom fit.

How do I achieve a custom fit?

Measure your bust and neck to calculate Back Panel and Front Panel widths, then adjust foundation chain length and repeat rows 2 and 3 until panels reach your measurements; the pattern includes calculation examples.