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Aestas Top Amigurumi Pattern

Aestas Top Amigurumi Pattern
4.4★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.5K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Casual Chic

Relaxed style with a modern twist, perfect for everyday wear while maintaining that handcrafted uniqueness.

About This Aestas Top Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates the Aestas Top, a lightweight summer tank crocheted in worsted cotton with decorative openwork panels on the yoke and sides. It is worked seamlessly from the top down and uses closed rounds and short rows for shaping. The pattern includes full stitch counts and photos to help with the more complex rounds and underarm sections.

Aestas Top Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Available in sizes XS (S, M, L, XL) with precise yardage and gauge information. Ideal for making a few to match your wardrobe and easily customizable in length and color.

Why You'll Love This Aestas Top Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it transforms simple stitches into a beautifully textured summer top with an elegant openwork yoke. I enjoy the top-down construction which makes fitting and customization effortless as you work. The short row technique used at the back adds subtle shaping that really flatters the shoulders and neckline. I also love that it works up quickly in worsted cotton and benefits hugely from blocking to get that professional finish.

Aestas Top Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Aestas Top Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Aestas Top Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Aestas Top Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this top — change yarn colors to create stripes or a color block yoke for a fresh look.

You can make the top longer by repeating bodice rounds until you reach your desired hip length, or shorten it to make a cropped version perfect for summer shorts.

I often swap the recommended worsted cotton for a lighter sport-weight cotton and a smaller hook to create a drapier, more delicate top that still follows the same construction.

Want a chunkier version? Use a bulkier cotton blend and a larger hook to get a warmer, more textured top great for cooler evenings.

Try adding optional edging: a row of sc or a picot border around the armholes and neckline to make the finish look more polished and to stabilize edges.

I sometimes add a narrow crocheted tie at the back neckline for a subtle fastening or decorative detail — this is especially cute when made in a contrast color.

For adjustable straps, work longer shoulder chains and add button loops so the straps can be shortened or lengthened for the perfect fit.

If you prefer a more fitted waist, use the optional waist shaping and measure as you go; decrease or increase rounds earlier or later depending on your silhouette.

Make a matching set by crocheting a small skirt or shorts in the same yarn and stitch pattern for a coordinated summer outfit.

I like to experiment with embroidered details or small crocheted appliques sewn on the front panel to personalize each top.

Finally, try substituting a linen blend yarn for a light summer drape — just be sure to check gauge and adjust hook size as needed.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Twisting the foundation chain when joining to work in the round; lay the chain flat and check it is not twisted before joining with a slip stitch to form a circle. ✗ Skipping the note to work into the back bump of chains in Round 1 of the yoke; always work into the back bump as instructed to achieve the correct gauge and neat edge. ✗ Forgetting to leave the working loop at the end of the back short rows; instead of fastening off, pull up the working loop and leave the skein so you can pick up where you left off without unraveling. ✗ Inconsistent tension during bodice rounds causes uneven stitch height and fit; maintain a steady tension and measure against the gauge swatch regularly to ensure correct size. ✗ Not blocking the finished cotton garment results in a less polished look; wash and block the top as instructed to open the lace and set the shape.

Aestas Top Amigurumi Pattern

Make a breezy Aestas crochet top designed for warm days — a seamless, top-down tank with a decorative openwork yoke and easy-to-follow rounds. Youll work short rows for shaping and closed rounds for the bodice to create a flattering fit. The pattern includes full stitch counts, sizing for XS to XL, and blocking advice so your cotton top looks and fits beautifully.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Aestas Top Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted cotton yarn, approximately 350 (375, 425, 475, 550) m [sizes XS (S, M, L, XL)]
  • 02
    Approx. 385 (410, 465, 520, 600) yards of worsted cotton yarn (equivalent yardage shown)
  • 03
    Use breathable worsted weight cotton for best drape and stitch definition

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 5.0 mm (or hook needed to meet gauge)
  • 02
    Darning needle for weaving in ends
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Stitch markers (recommended)
  • 05
    Measuring tape or ruler for gauge and length checks
  • 06
    Pins for blocking (optional)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Yoke :

Info :

The yoke is a circle of 5 rows openwork crochet. It is worked in closed rounds without turning.

Info :

ch 102 (108, 114, 120, 126), close with a slst to form a circle (be careful not to twist the chain)

Round 1 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), hdc in each ch around, working into the back bump of the ch's, close with slst in first hdc (102 (108, 114, 120, 126) sts)

Round 2 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in first st, [ch5, sk 2 sts, sc in next st] repeat around, except for the last repeat: instead of ch5: ch2 and dc in first sc to close the round. (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp's)

Round 3 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in the ch-sp you just made (that actually consists of 2ch + dc), [ch 6, sc in next ch-sp] repeat around, except for the last repeat: instead of ch6: ch3 and tr in first sc to close the round. (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp's)

Round 4 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in the ch-sp you just made (that actually consists of 3ch + tr), [ch 3, sc in next ch-sp] repeat around, close with slst in first sc (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp's)

Round 5 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), hdc in first sc, [3 hdc in next ch-sp, hdc in next sc] repeat around, close with a slst in first hdc (136 (144, 152, 160, 168 hdc's)

— Back Short Rows :

Info :

First, we are going to crochet 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) rows back and forth at the back.

Back Short Row 1 :

(RSF) ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the back loop of the next 36 (41, 44, 50, 54) sts, work one more dc into both loops of next st, turn. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Back Short Row 2 :

(WSF) ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across, turn. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Back Short Row 3-8 :

as row 2. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Info :

Sizes M, L, XL only: Back Short Row 9-10: as row 2. (x (x, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Info :

At the end of the last back short row, don't fasten off but just pull up the working loop so your work doesn't start to unravel and leave that skein to rest for a bit - we'll continue where we left off later.

— Front Short Rows :

Info :

We are going to work a few short rows at the front of the top as well. Grab a new skein of yarn and lay the yoke flat, as a circle in front of you, right side up. Now, look for the last dc of the first back short row (circled in the photo) and count 33 (32, 33, 31, 31) yoke hdc's from there. Skip these sts and join the yarn to the 34th (33rd, 34th, 32nd, 32nd) hdc of the yoke. (In other words, there should be 33 (32, 33, 31, 31) skipped hdc's between the end of the first back short row and the beginning of the first front short row.)

Front Short Row 1 :

Ch3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in the same st (increase made), dc in the back loop of each of the next 30 (35, 38, 44, 48) hdc's, 2 dc in next st (increase made), turn. (34 (39, 42, 48, 52) dc's)

Front Short Row 2 :

Ch3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in same st, dc in each dc up to the last st: 2 dc in the last st (i.e. the beginning ch3 of last row), turn. (36 (41, 44, 50, 54) dc's)

Front Short Row 3 :

as previous row. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc's)

Info :

Fasten off and put your hook back into the 'resting' loop where you left off after the back short rows.

— Bodice :

Info :

Now we'll be working in closed rounds again, without turning. Rounds 3 and 5 are a little more complex, so photos are included to help, below.

Bodice Round 1 :

(creating armholes and joining with the front) RSF. Now you should be at the end of the last back short row. Turn (the last time you turn in this pattern!), ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each of the dc's across the back, ch 13 (13, 16, 16, 19) for right underarm, dc in next 38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc's across the front, ch 13 (13, 16, 16, 19) for left underarm, slst in first dc to close round. Do not turn. (102 (112, 124, 136, 150) sts)

Bodice Round 2 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc and sc in each ch around, slst in first dc to close round. Do not turn. (102 (112, 124, 136, 150) sts)

Bodice Round 3 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across the back, until the first sc of the underarm section: [ch2, 2trtog into the 1st and 4th sc, ch2, 2trtog into the 4th and 7th sc, and so on (7th and 10th, 10th and 13th etc.) until you have made 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) 2trtog's; the last 2trtog should have its second 'leg' in the final sc of the underarm section, ch 2], dc in each dc across the front, repeat from [ to ] at the left underarm section, slst in first dc to close round. (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 8 (8, 10, 10, 12) 2trtog's)

Bodice Round 4 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across the back, at underarm section: [2 sc in first ch-sp, 3 sc in each of the next 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) ch-sp's, 2 sc in the final ch-sp of underarm section (do not work into the 2trtog's)], dc in each dc across the front, repeat from [ to ] at the left underarm section, slst in first dc to close round. (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 26 (26, 32, 32, 38) sc's)

Bodice Round 5 :

as round 3, except underarm sections: [skip 2 sc's, tr in the 3rd sc, ch 2, 2trtog into the 3rd and 6th sc, ch 2, 2trtog into the 6th and 9th sc, ch 2, and so on until only 1 sc remains of the underarm section: tr into the 2nd to last sc, skip the last sc] (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) 2trtog's + 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) tr)

Bodice Round 6 :

as round 4, except underarm sections: [3 sc in each ch-sp, 4 sc in the last ch-sp, skip the 2trtog's] (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 26 (26, 32, 32, 38) sc's)

Info :

Repeat rounds 3-6 until the top measures approx. 28 (30, 30, 32, 35) cm or 11 (12, 12, 13, 14) inches from underarm, ending with a round 4 or 6. Or work to your desired length.

— Optional Waist Shaping :

Info :

You may add waist shaping if you prefer the top slightly fitted at the waist. This is done by decreasing 2 sts per round, at approximately rounds 10-15 of the bodice – or just below the bust – (total 12 sts decreased) and then increasing 2 sts per round, at approximately rounds 22-25 – at the hips – (total 8 sts increased). Of course, everybody is different; this may not match your shape. My advice is to try on as you go to check where to begin and end the shaping rounds.

Bodice Rounds 10, 12, 14 :

work one decrease (dc2tog) at the beginning of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 11, 13, 15 :

work one decrease (dc2tog) at the end of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 22, 24 :

work one increase (i.e. one extra dc) into the first st of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 23, 25 :

work one increase (i.e. one extra dc) into the last st of both back and front dc panels

Info :

Fasten off, wash and block – blocking really makes a difference to cotton garments!

— Finished :

Info :

Tah-Dahh! Finished. There's nothing quite like seeing a pattern come to life in the hands of other makers. Please share and tag @hooked_by_anna #AestasTop on Instagram or create a project page on Ravelry!

Assembly Instructions

  • At the end of the last back short row, do not fasten off; pull up the working loop and leave the skein to rest so you can continue later when joining the front short rows.
  • After completing front short rows, fasten off the working yarn and put your hook back into the 'resting' loop where you left off after the back short rows to begin the bodice rounds.
  • When you finish the bodice rounds, fasten off, then wash and block the top to open the lacework and even out the stitches for a professional finish.
  • Weave in all loose ends neatly with a darning needle and stitch any loose chain ends into the fabric to secure them.
  • Try the top on during construction to check length and placement of shaping rounds; adjust repeats if necessary for a custom fit.

Important Notes

  • 💡Be careful not to twist the foundation chain when joining to work in the round; lay it flat and check before slip stitching.
  • 💡Work into the back bump of the chains for Round 1 of the yoke to achieve the correct gauge and neat beginning edge.
  • 💡Do not fasten off at the end of the back short rows — pull up the working loop and leave the skein until you are ready to continue to the bodice.
  • 💡Wash and block the finished top to open the lace yoke and set the cotton fabric; blocking really makes a difference for cotton garments.

This Aestas Top pattern was written to celebrate easy summer crochet with beautiful openwork and comfortable fit. Try different colors and lengths to make a top that truly reflects your summer style. Share your makes and enjoy the process — this top is a quick, satisfying project for warm-weather wardrobes. 🧶✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The pattern is written for sizes XS (S, M, L, XL) and fits bust measurements 78 (86, 95, 105, 115) cm or 31 (34, 37, 41, 45) inches; final fit depends on your tension and blocking.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

You can use a different yarn weight, but the final size and drape will change; if you choose a different weight, make a gauge swatch and select an appropriate hook to match the stated gauge of 14 dc x 8 rows = 10x10 cm.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate — basic knowledge of dc, ch, tr, and short row techniques is recommended to follow the shaping and underarm sections comfortably.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this top in 5-7 hours depending on experience and whether you add optional waist shaping or additional length.