Make a retro-inspired Ada top using a colorful lantern motif — a fun project that combines small motifs into a wearable vest. This pattern is written for advanced beginners who know the basics and uses US terminology. You9ll learn how to make different lantern motif variations, join them row-by-row, and add ribbing and a cute collar to finish.
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— Information :
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yarn type: I used Katia Capri which is yarn weight 2 (Fine/4ply), but it is also possible to use weight 3 yarn (8ply/DK/Light Worsted), just make sure your gauge is right.
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yarn amount: I used 3 different colours; here I give the approximate amount of balls that you'll need for each size (1 ball = 50 g/125 m/137 yds). If you're making the longest version of the top, you might need an extra ball of each colour: size 1A*/1A: 3 balls of each colour; size 1B/1C: 4 balls of each colour; size 1C: 5 balls of each colour; size 2A: 6 balls of each colour; size 2B: 7 balls of each colour.
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other materials needed: crochet hooks (I used 3.5 mm, 4 mm, and 5 mm, but this depends on your gauge), tapestry needle to seam in the ends, scissors, tape measure, 1 small button (with a diameter of approx. 1 cm/0.4 inch).
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stitches, abbreviations and symbols used: blo (back loop only). ch (chain). ch sp (chain space). hdc (half double crochet). dc (double crochet). sc (single crochet). slst (slip stitch). st (stitch). tc (triple crochet). yo (yarn over). * and ** (repeat from/until here).
— Determining the size :
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To choose your size determine your chest size (measure the fullest part of your chest) and refer to the size chart in the pattern; if you are between sizes choose smaller for tighter fit or size up for a more relaxed fit.
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If your chest measurement is between 65-75 cm (25.6-29.5 in), follow the instructions for size 1A but size down on your crochet hook (see notes in chart).
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Next, choose how long you want the top to be: length S (short), M (medium) and L (long). The chart shows the actual length of the top in each size excluding the waistline ribbing because you can customize the length of the ribbing.
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Example: the sample top was made in size 1A, length S. Waistline ribbing was 5 cm long; total top length from shoulder to waist = 40 cm (35 + 5 = 40).
— Choosing the colours :
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You'll need 3 different colours; the pattern refers to these as colour A, B, and C. In the photos used in this pattern, colour A = white, colour B = yellow, colour C = green.
— Making the lanterns :
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Read the pattern horizontally (by row, not by column). You want your Ada top to have a nice stretch, so don't make your stitches too tight. To be sure your gauge is right start with the crochet hook that corresponds with your size in the size chart (3.5 mm for size 1A*, 4 mm for other sizes) and measure the first lantern you finish from peak to peak (length) and the width from side to side.
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Size guidance for lantern dimensions: size 1A*: lanterns should be 13 x 8 cm / 5.1 x 3.1 in. Size 1A/2A: lanterns should be 14 x 9 cm / 5.5 x 3.5 in. Size 1B/2B: add 1 extra row so lanterns are 15 x 10 cm / 5.9 x 3.9 in. Size 1C: add 2 extra rows so lanterns are 16 x 11 cm / 6.3 x 4.3 in.
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If your lantern is too small start over using a bigger hook; if too large start over with a smaller hook. Weave in ends after you finish each lantern to avoid many loose ends later.
— Motif: normal lantern :
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Check the chart below to see how many of these you need and in what colour order. Note: colour order A - B - C means the 1st colour you use for the lantern is A, the 2nd is B and the 3rd is C. Row 0 and 1 are in colour A, row 2 is colour B, rows 3-6 are colour C.
Round 0 :
start with the 1st colour, ch4, join with a slst in the 1st chain to make a loop (I don't recommend using a magic ring in this pattern)
Round 1 :
ch3, 2 dc in the loop. *ch2, 3 dc in the loop*; repeat * 4 more times. ch2, join with a slst to the top ch of the ch3, fasten off.
Round 2 :
attach 2nd colour in a ch sp, ch3, 2 dc in the same ch sp. *in the next ch sp: 3 dc, ch2, 3 dc*; repeat * 4 more times, join with a slst to the top ch of the ch3, fasten off.
Round 3 :
attach 3rd colour in the space between 2 ch sp (see photo), ch3, 2 dc in the same space. In the next ch sp, we make one of the 'peaks' of the granny lantern: start with 3 dc, ch6 (or ch9 for longer variation), dc in the 4th ch from the hook, dc in the next 2 ch, 3 dc in the same chain space.
Round 3b :
In the next 5 spaces: 3 dc, 6 dc, 3 dc, 6 dc, 3 dc (follow photos for placement). In the next ch sp make the other peak. In the next 4 spaces: 3 dc, 6 dc, 3 dc, 6 dc. Join with a slst in the top ch of the ch3, do NOT fasten off (you will continue to round 4).
Round 4 :
ch1, sc in each st all around; also sc in the stitches on the right side of the peaks (both loops); in the top of the peaks you make 3 sc in the ch sp. At the end skip the last tiny st and join with a slst in the ch1.
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size 1A*/1A/2A: fasten off, then skip to section 4.2 (motif variations). size 1B/2B: add 1 extra row of sc, increasing at the top of the peaks (see next photo). size 1C: add 2 more rows of sc, increasing at the top of the peaks (see next photo).
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to increase: in the middle stitch of the peaks, make 3 sc. When you're done, join with a slst and fasten off.
— Motif variation: longer lantern :
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row 0-2: like normal. row 3: finish row 3 like normal until you reach the ch sp for the 2nd peak. ch9 (instead of ch6) then dc in the 4th ch from the hook, dc in the remaining 5 ch, 3 dc in the same ch sp. finish the rest of row 3 like normal. row 4-6: like normal (make the same amount of rows as you did for the normal lanterns).
— Motif variation: shorter lantern :
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row 0-2: like normal. row 3: finish row 3 like normal until you reach the space for the 2nd peak; in that chain space work: 3 dc, ch2, 3 dc. finish the rest of row 3 like normal. row 4: like normal; on the short side make 2 sc in the ch sp. row 5-6: like normal but don't increase on the short side (make the same amount of rows as you did for the normal lanterns).
— Motif variation: horizontal half lantern :
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row 0: start with 1st colour, ch4, join with a slst in the 1st chain to make a loop. In the loop: ch3, dc, ch2, 3 dc, ch2, 3 dc, ch2, 2 dc, fasten off.
Round 2 :
attach 2nd colour to the top ch of the ch3, ch4 (picture shows ch3 but make sure to ch4), *3 dc in the next ch sp, ch2, 3 dc in the same ch sp*; repeat as indicated, ch1, dc in the last st, fasten off.
Round 3 :
attach 3rd colour in the first ch sp, ch3. continue building the half lantern so that final row 4 attaches 3rd colour to the 1st stitch, ch1, sc in each stitch across, fasten off. size adjustments: size 1B/2B add 1 more row of sc (don't forget to increase in the peak). size 1C add 2 more rows of sc (increase in the peak).
— Motif variation: vertical half lanterns :
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row 0: starting with 1st colour, ch5, join with a slst in the 1st ch to make a loop. row 1: ch4, 2 dc in the loop, *ch2, 2 dc in the loop* repeat. row 2: attach 2nd colour in the first ch sp, ch3, 2 dc in the same ch sp. continue as shown in photos. row 3: attach 2nd colour to first stitch, ch1, sc in each st across, fasten off. size notes: size 1B/2B add 1 more row of sc (no increase); size 1C add 2 more rows of sc (no increase).
— Joining the lanterns :
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In the drawings the colour orange points out the 'joining rows' between the lanterns (these rows are made with colour A). Start by taking out the lanterns for the first two rows and place them in the right order with the right sides up. When joining the lanterns you will sometimes be referred to 'top stitch' or 'centre stitch'.
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each peak has 3 top stitches. It might look as if there are 4 top stitches but the actual top stitches are the ones to the right (in the photo the hook is in the 3rd top stitch). For size 1B/1C/2B the top stitches are the 3 sc of the increase. When joining the lanterns you will never work in the top stitches — the peaks of the lanterns are not joined.
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the centre stitch is the stitch halfway the lantern. It may look as if there are 2 stitches in the centre: the actual centre stitch is the one to the right (in the photo the hook is in the centre stitch). When joining the lanterns you will make an extra sc in the centre stitch, so 2 in total: 1 to join to the 1st lantern and 1 to join the 2nd lantern.
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Joining method (joining row of sc, colour A): start on the right side (except when left handed), insert hook in the 1st stitch of the half lantern and the 1st stitch after the top stitches of the other lantern (so you have 4 loops on your hook). Attach yarn here, pull up a loop and ch1.
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sc in the next stitch of both lanterns (both loops, so again 4 loops on your hook) and the next stitches. Make the last sc in the centre stitch + the last stitch before the top stitches (if these don't end up opposite each other even it out by skipping or adding a stitch somewhere).
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make another sc in the centre stitch + the 1st stitch after the top stitches of the next lantern. Continue until you reach the next centre stitch + last stitch before the top stitch. Join the next lantern here in the same way as before (make another sc in that centre stitch + the first stitch after the top stitch of the next lantern). Continue until you reach the end of this row, fasten off.
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When you've joined all your lanterns fold the front panel over the back panel (wrong sides together) and join the blue lines (see the drawings), just like you did with the other rows. Repeat on the other side of the top.
— Adding the ribbing :
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In the last section we add the ribbing on the waist and the armholes, and the collar. Note: the photos in this section are of the top in size 1A, so if you're making a different size the photos will not always correspond with the written instructions.
Round 1 :
we'll start by making a 'base row' of sc: turn your top so the waistline is facing up, attach yarn to the middle stitch of the lantern on the right side, ch1. Make a row of sc all around the waistline; also make a sc in the 1st stitch of each 'joining row'. Join with a slst to the ch1; do NOT fasten off.
Round 2 :
change to a hook that is 0.5 mm smaller (I use 3.5 mm), ch11 (this is to create a rib of 5 cm/2 in; add 2 ch for 1 cm/0.4 in extra or skip 2 ch for 1 cm/0.4 in less). dc in 3rd ch from the hook. dc in each remaining ch (if you chained 11, the total is 10 dc; the first 2 ch from the hook that you skip counts as the 1st dc!).
Round 3 :
dc in the first dc from the hook (both loops). *skip 1 st (not the stitch where the rib starts but the next one), slst in the next 3 stitches* (follow photos for exact placement). Continue all the way around, make sure your stitch count stays the same. Join with a row of slst on the inside (blo). Do NOT fasten off if you will continue with more rib rows.
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make this dc quite loose so the rib retains stretch. ch2 counts as the 1st dc for the next row of the rib. Note: make these quite loose to not lose the stretch of the rib.
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you'll end up either at the top or the bottom of your rib; join with a row of slst on the inside (blo) and fasten off when finished.
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For size 2A and 2B we first have to round the armholes before adding the ribbing (for other sizes the armholes already have a round shape). See armhole corner photo for how the corner was rounded.
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I rounded this corner by making: 2 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 1 tc, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc in colour C (but you can also use colour A or B if you prefer). Make sure you make the tc in the centre of the corner. Do this for all corners so 4 in total.
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armhole ribbing for all sizes: switch to the bigger hook again, start with one armhole and attach your yarn to a stitch in the middle of the armpit, ch1. Start with a 'base row' of sc all the way around, also in the 1st stitches of the 'joining rows'. At the end join with a slst to the ch1, switch to the smaller hook again, ch5 (this is for a rib of 2 cm/0.8 in; add 2 ch for 1 cm/0.4 in extra).
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make the rib in the same way as the waist (but because you ch5 instead of 11, each row will have 4 dc instead of 10) and continue all the way around. Repeat for the other armhole and fasten off when done.
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making the collar: switch to the bigger hook again, attach yarn to the 1st stitch of the 'joining row' right from the centre of the neckline on the back, ch1. sc in the stitch which is joined by that 1st stitch of the 'joining row' (for the waist and arm ribs we skipped these stitches, but we need them now for more stretch!).
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sc in each stitch across (don't forget to sc in the 1st stitch of the joining rows and the 2 stitches that are joined by this stitch), join with a slst in the ch1. Turn your work so the neckline is facing you, slst to the next corner of the lantern on the left, change to the smaller hook again, ch12 (for a collar of 5 cm/2 in). Continue the rib as before but instead of skip 1 st, slst in the next 3 st, just slst in the next 2 st (so no skipping). Continue until you reach the middle lantern on the front; if you end at the top of the rib, slst down to the base row.
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slst to the other side of the middle lantern, ch12, continue the ribbing until you reach the middle lantern on the back (if you end at the top of the rib, slst down to the base row). ch6, slst in the same stitch to make a loop (you can ch more if your button is bigger), slst to the place where you started with the collar, fasten off. Sew a button on the other side of the collar so you can close the collar.
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Note: instead of a button you can choose to make a bow: chain the length you want the straps to be (make sure you have enough length to tie a bow), then make a row of slip stitches back to the base of the rib, slst to the other side of the collar, make the other strap there.
— Finishing :
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When you've finished assembling and adding the ribbing and collar, weave in all remaining ends, block gently if desired, and sew on the button to finish the collar loop closure. Congrats, your Ada top is finished!
This Ada top pattern brings playful, vintage-inspired lantern motifs into a wearable and cozy vest you9ll reach for season after season. The modular approach makes it easy to experiment with colours and motif variations to create a truly unique piece. Whether you make it in bright contrasts or soft neutrals, the finished top is sure to turn heads and become a favorite in your handmade wardrobe. 🧶✨
