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GRETTA the DRAGON Amigurumi Pattern

GRETTA the DRAGON Amigurumi Pattern
4.6★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
1.5K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This GRETTA the DRAGON Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates Gretta the Dragon — a sweet, standing amigurumi with a textured crest, wings and tiny accessories. It includes stitch-by-stitch rounds, shaping details and photo guidance to help you follow along. You will make separate pieces (head, arms, legs, crest, tail, wings) and assemble them for a professional finish.

GRETTA the DRAGON Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Detailed photos and tips are included for placements like eyes, cheeks and crest. The pattern uses YarnArt Jeans and a 2 mm hook for a firm fabric and adorable scale definition.

Why You'll Love This GRETTA the DRAGON Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines simple amigurumi construction with charming details like the folded crest and embroidered freckles. I designed Gretta to feel playful and huggable while still offering opportunities to practice shaping and finishing techniques. The step-by-step photos make assembly and facial placement reliable, which I find so satisfying. Every time I stitch the little wings or embroider the freckles I enjoy bringing personality to the toy.

GRETTA the DRAGON Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress GRETTA the DRAGON Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress GRETTA the DRAGON Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories GRETTA the DRAGON Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love customizing this pattern by changing the color palette — try pastel greens and creams for a softer, nursery-friendly Gretta.

I often swap the recommended YarnArt Jeans for a slightly thicker sport yarn and a larger hook to create a chunkier, cuddlier version.

To make mini keychain versions, use fingering yarn and a 1.5 mm hook; reduce rounds by following head/leg proportions and stop earlier to get a tiny size.

I sometimes embroider different expressions by moving the eye placement or altering eyebrow length — small shifts make big personality changes.

Make outfits or accessories like a tiny scarf or hat using contrasting yarn — they’re great for gifting or seasonal themes.

For posable wings, insert a slightly thicker wire in the wing frame and wrap it with yarn before covering; this allows shaping while keeping it safe for display.

Try different eye types: sewn felt discs for a soft look, or safety eyes for a glossy, shop-bought style; always secure and pad with felt.

I recommend using dental floss for attaching small high-stress parts like front paws if you want extra durability — it hides well between rounds.

Want a more realistic scale texture? Add extra small embroidered rows along the forehead and body using shiny thread for a subtle shimmer effect.

If you’re adventurous, make a whole family of dragons by changing color combinations and crest sizes — it’s a fun way to practice the pattern and build a collection.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers during shaping can result in lost count and asymmetrical pieces; place a marker at the start of each round and after increases/decreases to stay accurate. ✗ Not stuffing gradually causes lumps and distorted shaping; add small amounts of stuffing as you work and shape the piece as you go for smooth curves. ✗ Forgetting to mark rounds when working turning rows or floating loops causes misalignment; use a contrasting thread or stitch marker to identify the first loop of each row precisely. ✗ Pulling yarn too tight when making increases or folding elements compresses shape and reduces flexibility; maintain even, moderate tension and check counts frequently. ✗ Cutting threads too early before joining pieces can make assembly messy; leave long tails for sewing and weave ends in after pieces are secured.

GRETTA the DRAGON Amigurumi Pattern

Make Gretta the Dragon — a charming, photo-filled amigurumi pattern that guides you step-by-step through shaping the head, body, arms, legs, crest and wings. This pattern uses clear instructions, helpful photos and finishing tips so you can create a cuddly, detailed dragon you will be proud of. Perfect as a handmade gift or a unique addition to your toy collection.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for GRETTA the DRAGON Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    YarnArt Jeans №11 - main color (approx. 2 skeins)
  • 02
    YarnArt Jeans №69 - accent (approx. half a skein)
  • 03
    YarnArt Jeans №88 - accent (approx. 1 skein)
  • 04
    YarnArt Jeans №42 - small amount (approx. half a skein)
  • 05
    YarnArt Jeans №70 - small amount for flower (a little)
  • 06
    YarnArt Jeans №01 - small amount (approx. half a skein)
  • 07
    Any similar sport/fingering weight cotton-blend yarn if substituting (adjust hook size accordingly)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2 mm
  • 02
    Scissors
  • 03
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 04
    Stitch markers or contrast thread to mark rounds
  • 05
    Sewn black eyes size 13 mm (1.1 in) or safety eyes of similar size
  • 06
    Toy filler / polyester stuffing
  • 07
    Any decorative button 1 piece (example bow)
  • 08
    Any shiny thread (golden floss recommended)
  • 09
    Long needle for embroidery
  • 10
    Two white felt discs, diameter 1-1.5 cm (0.39-0.59 in)
  • 11
    Glue (for felt discs and eyes)
  • 12
    Chenille wire or ordinary thin wire (for wing frame and flower stem)
  • 13
    Weighting for flower (small sea stone or similar)
  • 14
    Dental floss for attaching front paws (optional for strength)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Round 1 :

7 sc in a MR

Round 2 :

7 inc (14)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc)*7 (21)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc)*7 (28)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc)*7 (35)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc)*7 (42)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc)*7 (49)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc)*7 (56)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, inc)*7 (63)

Round 10 :

(8 sc, inc)*7 (70)

Round 11 :

(9 sc, inc)*7 (77)

Round 12-21 :

77 sc

Round 22 :

(5 sc, dec)*6, 35 sc (71)

Round 23 :

(4 sc, dec)*6, 35 sc (65)

Round 24 :

(3 sc, dec)*6, 35 sc (59)

Round 25-31 :

59 sc

Round 32 :

(17 sc, dec)*2, 19 sc, dec (56)

Round 33-34 :

56 sc

Round 35 :

(6 sc, dec)*7 (49)

Round 36 :

(5 sc, dec)*7 (42)

Round 37 :

(4 sc, dec)*7 (35)

Round 38 :

(3 sc, dec)*7 (28)

Round 39 :

(2 sc, dec)*7 (21)

Round 40 :

(1 sc, dec)*7 (14)

Round 41 :

7 dec

Info :

Tighten the opening, cut and secure the thread.

— Ears :

Info :

Make 2 details. Crochet with light green yarn, do not stuff with filler. Do not forget to mark rounds.

Round 1 :

7 sc in a MR

Round 2 :

7 inc (14)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc)*7 (21)

Round 4-6 :

21 sc

Round 7 :

19 sc, dec (20)

Info :

Fold in half and single crochet through both halves. Fold in half again and sew the ear from the bottom (see photo). Leave thread end for sewing.

— Cheeks :

Info :

Make 2 details. Crochet with pink yarn.

Round 1 :

13 HDC in MR

Info :

Leave thread end for sewing.

— Tongue :

Round 1 :

Make a chain of 4 ch, from 2nd ch from hook 3 sc in one ch, then on chain 1 sc, 3 sc in last ch, on second side of chain 1 sc, slst.

Info :

Leave thread end for sewing.

— Crest for Head (5 details) :

Info :

Crochet with dark green yarn, do not forget to mark rounds. Do not stuff with filler. Cut the thread on 4 triangles, do not cut the thread on 5th triangle and connect into one crest with slip stitches.

Round 1 :

6 sc in a MR

Round 2 :

inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc (8)

Round 3 :

inc, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc (10)

Round 4 :

inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc (12)

Round 5 :

inc, 5 sc, inc, 5 sc (14)

Round 6 :

inc, 6 sc, inc, 6 sc (16)

Info :

Fold the triangle in half and single crochet through both halves. Connect into one crest with slip stitches (see photo). Cut and secure threads, weave in the ends.

— Head Decoration :

Item 1 (P1) :

Sew on the ears between 7th and 8th rounds symmetrical to each other (count from the top of the head, see photo). You may place the ears on other rounds as you like best.

Item 2 (P1) :

Eyes and mouth tightening: place two pins for mouth (at a distance of 1 sc between them) between 10th and 11th rounds from the beginning of crocheting the head (see photo). Place two pins for each eye (at a distance of 1 sc between the pins) between 26th and 27th rounds from the beginning of crocheting the head at a distance of 10-11 sc between eyes (see photo). You may place eyes and mouth in other rounds as you like best. Insert needle at point A, bring it out at point B, again insert needle at point C, bring out at point D, insert at point E, bring out at point F. Repeat this stage one more time tightening the thread.

Item 3 (P1) :

Sew eyes into eye deepening and glue them with felt for strength. Make a little hole in the felt disc, backing a little from the center to the edge, insert eyes in felt discs (see photo).

Item 4 (P1) :

Sew tongue into mouth deepening. Place the cheeks symmetrically to each other on the sides of the head (see photo).

Item 5 (P1) :

Embroider eyelids and eyebrows with brown yarn (I split the thread into two parts to make it thinner).

Item 6 (P1) :

Embroider freckles with shiny thread.

Item 7 (P1) :

Embroider the nostrils under the eyes with brown thread (see photo).

Item 8 (P1) :

Sew on the crest in the middle of the head (I sew on both sides to keep it steady) (see photo).

Item 9 (P1) :

Embroider the scales on the forehead with shiny thread (see photo).

— Arms (2 details) :

Info :

Start crocheting with green yarn. Do not forget to mark rounds, stuff as you go.

Info :

Make fingers. 6 fingers: cut the thread on 4 fingers, do not cut thread on 2 fingers.

Round 1 :

8 sc in a MR

Round 2-3 :

8 sc

Item - Connect fingers into arm :

1 r: 4 sc on one finger (on which the thread was not cut)+4 sc on second finger + 4 sc on third finger, crochet the second semicircle the same (4 sc +4 sc +4 sc) (24)

Round 2 :

24 sc

Round 3 :

crochet the thumb: on first arm: 20 sc, crochet finger from the inside 4 sc (24) (see photo)

Info :

on second arm: crochet finger from the inside 4 sc, 20 sc (24) (see photo)

Round 4 :

on first arm: 20 sc, crochet on the outside of the finger 4 sc (24). on second arm: crochet on the outside of the finger 4 sc, 20 sc (24)

Round 5 :

24 sc

Round 6 :

(2 sc, dec)*6 (18)

Round 7-8 :

18 sc

Round 9-22 :

work in back loops only 18 sc

Round 23 :

in back loops only (1 sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 24 :

in back loops only 12 sc

Round 25 :

in back loops only 6 dec (6)

Info :

Tighten the hole, secure and cut the thread. Attach yellow yarn to 9th round and crochet around the arm from 9th to 25th rounds with slst (see photo).

— Legs (2 details) :

Info :

Start crocheting with pink yarn. Stuff as you go. Do not forget to mark rounds. Make a chain of 7 ch.

Round 1 :

from 2nd ch from hook crochet 3 sc in one ch, then on chain 4 sc, 3 sc in last ch, on second side of chain 4 sc (14)

Round 2 :

(inc.)*3, 4 sc, (inc.)*3, 4 sc (20)

Round 3 :

(inc., 1 sc)*3, 4 sc, (inc., 1 sc)*3, 4 sc (26)

Round 4 :

(inc., 2 sc)*3, 4 sc, (inc., 2 sc)*3, 4 sc (32)

Round 5 :

(inc., 3 sc)*3, 4 sc, (inc., 3 sc)*3, 4 sc (38)

Round 6 :

in back loops only 38 sc

Round 7-8 :

38 sc

Info :

Attach pink yarn to 6th round and crochet around 38 slst.

Round 9 :

work 9 sc (shift the beginning of the round to the middle of the heel, place marker), then 11 sc, 8 dec., 11 sc (30)

Round 9 (alt) :

9 sc, 6 dec., 9 sc (24)

Info :

Attach light green yarn

Round 10 :

in back loops only 24 sc

Round 11 :

7 sc, 5 dec., 7 sc (19)

Round 12 :

17 sc, dec (18)

Info :

Attach pink yarn to 10th round and crochet around 24 slst.

Round 13-15 :

18 sc

Round 16 :

(2 sc, inc.)*6 (24)

Round 17 :

24 sc

Round 18 :

(3 sc, inc.)*6 (30)

Round 19 :

30 sc

Round 20 :

(4 sc, inc.)*6 (36)

Round 21 :

36 sc

Info :

On first leg, crochet 12 sc to the middle of the leg, secure and cut the thread. On second leg, crochet 31 sc, make 1 ch, do not cut the thread.

Round 22 :

Attach second leg to the first leg into the next stitch (i.e. in 13th stitch) and place marker. 36 sc on first leg, 1 sc on ch, 36 sc on second leg, 1 sc on ch (74)

Round 23 :

74 sc

Round 24 :

(36 sc, inc)*2 (76)

Round 25 :

(37 sc, inc)*2 (78)

Round 26 :

(12 sc, inc)*6 (84)

Round 27-31 :

84 sc

Round 32 :

(12 sc, dec)*6 (78)

Round 33 :

78 sc

Round 34 :

(11 sc, dec)*6 (72)

Round 35 :

72 sc

Round 36 :

(10 sc, dec)*6 (66)

Round 37 :

66 sc

Round 38 :

(9 sc, dec)*6 (60)

Round 39 :

60 sc

Round 40 :

(8 sc, dec)*6 (54)

Info :

Shift the beginning of round as desired and stuff the toy with filler, pay attention to hips to get rounded shape.

Round 41-52 :

in back loops only 54 sc

Round 53 :

in back loops only (7 sc, dec)*6 (48)

Round 54-56 :

in back loops only 48 sc

Round 57 :

in back loops only (6 sc, dec)*6 (42)

Round 58 :

(5 sc, dec)*6 (36)

Round 59 :

36 sc

Round 60 :

(4 sc, dec)*6 (30)

Round 61 :

(3 sc, dec)*6 (24)

Round 62 :

(2 sc, dec)*6 (18)

Round 63 :

(1 sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 64 :

6 dec

Info :

Tighten the hole, cut and secure thread. Weave in the ends. Sew up the holes between the legs (if you have them formed when crocheting).

Info :

Attach yellow yarn to the back of the toy and crochet with sl.st around to the 57th round inclusive (see photo). Cut and secure thread.

— Shells :

Info :

Attach yellow yarn to 41st round and make shells: ch, skip 1 st, 5 DC, skip 1 st, sc, skip 1 st, 5 DC, skip 1 st, sc and so on to the end of round (see photo). Cut and secure the thread.

— Tail :

Info :

Start crocheting with dark green yarn, stuff as you go, do not forget to mark rounds.

Round 1 :

6 sc in a MR

Round 2 :

6 sc

Round 3 :

3 inc, 3 sc (9)

Round 4 :

(1 sc, inc)*3, 3 sc (12)

Round 5 :

(2 sc, inc)*3, 3 sc (15)

Round 6 :

15 sc

Round 7 :

(3 sc, inc)*3, 3 sc (18)

Round 8 :

(2 sc, inc)*6 (24)

Round 9 :

3 sc, (inc, 1 sc)*9, 3 sc (33)

Round 10-12 :

33 sc

Round 13 :

(10 sc, inc)*3 (36)

Round 14 :

(5 sc, inc)*6 (42)

Round 15 :

make a fold: in front loops 7 sc, then work in both loops 28 sc, again in front loops 7 sc (42)

Round 16-17 :

42 sc

Round 18 :

make a fold: grab one stitch in current 18th round and one back loop in 15th round, work 7 sc in this way, then crochet 28 sc in both loops of current round, again grab one stitch in current 18th round and one back loop in 15th round, crochet 7 sc in this way in total (42)

Round 19-20 :

42 sc

Info :

Leave thread end for sewing.

— Crest for Tail (4 details) :

Info :

Start crocheting with dark green yarn, do not forget to mark rounds. Do not stuff with filler. Cut the thread on 3 triangles, leave the thread on 4th triangle.

1 piece :

1 r: 6 sc in a MR. 2 r: inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc (8). 3 r: inc, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc (10). 4 r: inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc (12). 5 r: inc, 5 sc, inc, 5 sc (14).

2 pcs :

1 r: 6 sc in a MR. 2 r: inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc (8). 3 r: inc, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc (10). 4 r: inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc (12).

1 piece (small) :

1 r: 6 sc in a MR. 2 r: inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc (8). 3 r: inc, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc (10).

Info :

Fold triangle in half and single crochet through both halves. Connect into one crest with slip stitches (see photo). Connect from smaller triangle to larger. Cut and secure thread, weave in the ends.

— Frame for Wings :

Info :

Start crocheting with dark green yarn, do not forget to mark rows.

Round 1 :

Make a chain of 6 ch, from 2nd ch from hook crochet 5 sc, 1 turning chain, turn. Further crochet in turning rows and make 1 t.ch in the end of each row.

Round 2-44 :

5 sc, 1 t.ch, turn. (43 rows)

Info :

Leave thread end for sewing. Bend the ends of the chenille wire (you can use a thin ordinary wire) and place it inside the part, sew it by the edges (see photo). Give a "checkmark" shape. Cut and secure the thread.

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew on the ears between 7th and 8th rounds of the head symmetrically, using pins to check placement before sewing.
  • Place pins for the mouth between 10th and 11th rounds and for the eyes between 26th and 27th rounds; tighten facial features by passing the needle through points A–F as shown and secure tightly.
  • Sew eyes into the eye deepening and glue them onto felt discs for strength; make a small hole in the felt for the eye shaft and secure with glue and felt backing.
  • Attach the two legs together as instructed (round 22) by crocheting across the first leg, chain, then continuing on the second leg to join; place marker at the join and continue rounds as written.
  • Sew the crest to the middle of the head, embroider freckles, eyebrows and nostrils as described, then attach the tail and wings securely with wire frame enclosed in the wing seams.
  • Attach arms to the body between indicated rounds, angle them slightly forward and secure with a strong whipstitch; add the yellow slip-stitch border around the arms as instructed.

Important Notes

  • 💡Work in spiral; do not join with a slip stitch at the end of the row and do not turn, unless otherwise stated.
  • 💡There are floating loops and turning rows in this pattern — mark the first loop of each new row with a contrast thread or marker.
  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of rounds and increases/decreases for precise shaping.
  • 💡Stuff the toy firmly but evenly; overstuffing can distort shape while under-stuffing produces flat areas.
  • 💡Leave long thread ends for sewing and weave in ends after all pieces are securely attached.

This Gretta the Dragon pattern is a delightful project full of personality and thoughtful shaping. With detailed rounds, photo examples, and finishing tips you can make a beautiful keepsake or a heartfelt gift. Follow the step-by-step instructions and enjoy every stitch as Gretta comes to life. 🧶✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 27-28 cm (10.63 – 11.02 in) tall including the crest when using the recommended yarn and hook size.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use a different yarn weight, but this will affect the final size and stitch counts. Adjust your hook size accordingly and check gauge; smaller hooks for tighter fabric or larger for a softer, larger toy.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and uses shaping, folding, floating loops and turning rows. Basic knowledge of single crochet, increases, decreases and working in spirals is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters finish this project in about 12-15 hours depending on experience, assembly time, and how much time you take for embroidery and finishing details.