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Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern
4.8β˜… Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
3.7K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journeyβ€”perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern guides you through crocheting a Toothless-inspired dragon amigurumi with wired wings and jointed legs. It features clear, round-by-round instructions and step photos so you can assemble a poseable toy. Techniques include working with wire frames, making bobble stitch details and attaching plastic or cotter pin joints.

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Designed to make a roughly 30cm finished toy using the listed materials, this pattern includes full materials, abbreviations, and finishing tips. The project is great for crafters who enjoy detailed assembly and personalization.

Why You'll Love This Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it brings so much personality to a single amigurumi β€” the wired wings and jointed legs make it poseable and playful. I enjoy the balance of technique and creativity: the wiring and frame give structure, while the small sewn-on spines and eyelids let you personalize the expression. The step-by-step rounds are satisfying to work through and the final result is a sturdy, gift-ready toy. Sharing it with friends always brings smiles because of its cute face and expressive eyes.

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this dragon by changing yarn colors; try soft pastels for a whimsical version or a deep navy for a moody look.

I often substitute a bulkier yarn and larger hook to make a chunky, cuddly version β€” just swap to thicker wire and larger joints to match the scale.

If you want a tiny keychain, use fingering yarn and a smaller hook, and skip wire frames; the proportions remain adorable at any size.

I like adding embroidered scars, tiny felt wings accessories, or crocheted scarves to give each dragon its own personality.

For the eyes, you can paint pupils as shown, or use layered felt pieces for a softer, non-painted option that is safer for small children.

Try accent bead placements along the spines or glittery embroidery to give a fantasy shimmer to the dragon’s back.

I sometimes replace the plastic joints with sewn-in buttons or tightly wrapped thread joints for a different movement feel.

Experiment with wing shapes by altering the number of rows or wire lengths to create longer, broader or more bat-like wings.

To change poseability, add additional wire inside the tail or limbs β€” I like to add one extra strand to the tail for stronger curve-holding ability.

When gifting, consider making a small outfit or detachable accessories (tiny hat, cape, or collar) to increase charm and play possibilities.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers at the start of rounds causes misplacement of features; place a marker at the start of every round and shift using the extra (shift) stitch when needed. βœ— Not stuffing gradually creates lumps or uneven shaping; stuff little by little and shape the piece as you go, especially when adding the wire frame into the tail and body. βœ— Forgetting to mark holes for joints and wings leads to incorrect placement; mark spaces for ch2 holes with a contrasting thread as instructed before continuing rounds. βœ— Pulling wire ends too short makes framing awkward; leave wire lengths as specified and bend ends as shown, then secure and wrap with insulating tape inside the body for safety. βœ— Not hiding or weaving ends properly results in visible tails; hide yarn ends inside pieces after fastening off and before final assembly for a clean finish.

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

Make your own adorable Toothless-inspired dragon amigurumi with this detailed crochet pattern. You will learn how to build a wired wing frame, create jointed legs, and assemble all the small decorative parts for a poseable finished toy. The pattern includes step-by-step rounds, materials, abbreviations and tips so you can follow along confidently and make a charming 30cm dragon.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - Color 454 (dark gray) - quantity as needed
  • 02
    Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - Color 460 (black) - small amount for details
  • 03
    Lace weight/1ply yarn Alpina Lena 50g/280m (100% mercerized cotton) - Color 10 (yellow) - small amount for eyes
  • 04
    Polyester stuffing (fiberfill) - quantity to stuff body, tail and limbs
  • 05
    Seed beads - small quantity for decoration

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.0 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 1.25 mm
  • 03
    Wire diameter 0.9mm (23cm - 2pcs, 19cm - 4pcs, 13cm - 2pcs) for wings frames
  • 04
    Wire diameter 1.6mm - 45cm for tail/body frame
  • 05
    Plastic joints size 25mm for hind legs (2pcs) and size 15mm for forelegs (2pcs) - optional
  • 06
    Cotter pins and disks for joints (disks size 25mm - 4pcs, disks size 15mm - 4pcs, T-shaped cotter pins 20*2 - 4pcs) - optional
  • 07
    Hot glue gun
  • 08
    Textile paint black and white
  • 09
    Beading needle and blunt-end needle
  • 10
    Fishing line or nylon thread for sewing seed beads
  • 11
    Scissors
  • 12
    Sewing pins
  • 13
    Round nose pliers
  • 14
    Yarn needle for sewing pieces
  • 15
    Insulating tape for wrapping wire joints

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Head :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round passes exactly in the middle of the back. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. Stuff as you go.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

1sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*5, 1sc (24)

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc)*6 (30)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*5, 2sc (36)

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc)*6 (42)

Round 8 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

Round 9 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 10 :

4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*5, 4sc (60)

Round 11 :

(9sc, inc)*6 (66)

Round 12 :

66sc (66)

Round 13 :

5sc, inc, (10sc, inc)*5, 5sc (72)

Round 14-21 :

72sc (8 rounds)

Round 22 :

18sc, (BLO 36sc), 18sc (72)

Round 23 :

5sc, dec, (10sc, dec)*5, 5sc (66)

Round 24 :

(9sc, dec)*6 (60)

Round 25 :

4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*5, 4sc (54)

Round 26 :

(7sc, dec)*6 (48)

Round 27 :

2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*7, ch3

Round 28 :

skip 2 stitches before marker and 2 stitches after marker, next crochet 1sc, dec, (3sc, dec)*6, 3sc, 1sc on the chain (32)

Round 29 :

2sc on the chain, dec, (2sc, dec)*7 (24)

Round 30 :

(2sc, dec)*6 (18)

Round 31 :

(1sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 32 :

6dec (6)

Infos :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, tighten the hole. We will use the hole in round 27-28 to bring the wire frame from the body into the head.

Info :

Attach the dark gray yarn to the first unused front loop of round 21 (keep the hole away from you) and crochet: 17sc, 2hdcinc, 17sc. Cut the yarn, fasten off, hide the ends inside.

β€” Eyes (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with 1ply yarn Alpina Lena of yellow color, hook size 1.25mm.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

(inc, 2sc)*6 (24)

Round 5 :

3sc, 2hdcinc, 2sc (short round)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, weave in the ends (bring all the ends to the front side). We will attach the eyes to the head with the wrong side out, as it is less relief than the front.

Info :

On the wrong side of the eye, draw a pupil with black textile paint and a glare with white paint (see photo). HDC increases in round 5 are located in the upper inner corner of the eyes (marked in the photo ●). PS. If desired, eyes, pupils and glare can be cut out of felt and glued together.

Info :

Leave the eyes on the head fixed with sewing pins. We will sew and glue all the pieces at the very end, when we assemble all the other pieces and place them in the places we like.

β€” Eyelids (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch9, start in the second chain from the hook: sl st, 6sc, sl st. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. The mood of the dragon depends on the location of the eyelids. You can make him angry or a little sad. Try several options for the location of the eyelids and choose what you like best.

β€” Ears (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round passes on the side in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. Do not stuff.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

(1sc, inc)*3 (9)

Round 3 :

4sc, inc, 4sc (10)

Round 4 :

4sc, inc, 5sc (11)

Round 5 :

5sc, inc, 5sc (12)

Round 6 :

(inc, 5sc)*2 (14)

Round 7-8 :

14sc (2 rounds)

Round 9 :

6sc, dec, 6sc (13)

Round 10 :

5sc, dec, 6sc (12)

Info :

Fold in half and crochet through both sides 6sc. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces.

β€” Spines :

Spines 1 (make 2) :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. 1. 6sc in a MR (6) 2. 6sc (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).

Spines 2 (make 2) :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Do not stuff. 1. 6sc in a MR (6) 2. (2sc, inc)*2 (8) 3. 8sc (8)

Info :

Fold in half and crochet through both sides 4sc. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).

Spines 3 (make 2) :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Do not stuff. 1. 6sc in a MR (6) 2. 6sc (6) 3. (1sc, dec)*2 (4)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).

β€” Hind Legs :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch8, start on the second chain from the hook:

Round 1 :

6sc, 4sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 5sc, inc (17)

Round 2 :

inc, 5sc, 4inc, 5sc, 2inc (24)

Round 3 :

1sc, inc, 5sc, (1hdc, hdcinc)*4, 5sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (31)

Round 4 :

9sc, (3-dc Bobble st in black, 2sc in dark gray)*4, 9sc - short round (you may have a different number of stitches)

Info :

Move the marker. It should pass at the back, in the center of the heel. Guideline - a straight line of the foundation chain. Align it in the process by crocheting extra stitches.

Round 5 :

31sc (31)

Round 6 :

(4sc, dec)*2, 7sc, (dec, 4sc)*2 (27)

Round 7 :

6sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 6sc (24)

Round 8 :

6sc, 6dec, 6sc (18)

Round 9-13 :

18sc (5 rounds)

Info :

Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. While stuffing tightly only the lower part (foot).

Round 14 :

(5sc, inc)*3 (21)

Round 15-16 :

21sc (2 rounds)

Left hind leg - For plastic joints legs fastening :

Round 17. 13sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 6sc (21)

Round 18 :

13sc, 2sc on the chain, 6sc (21)

Round 19 :

21sc (21)

Left hind leg - For cotter pins legs fastening :

Rounds 17-19. 21sc (3 rounds)

Right hind leg - For plastic joints legs fastening :

Round 17. 6sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 13sc (21)

Round 18 :

6sc, 2sc on the chain, 13sc (21)

Round 19 :

21sc (21)

Right hind leg - For cotter pins legs fastening :

Rounds 17-19. 21sc (3 rounds)

Info :

Select the diameter of the fastening: fold the leg in half and select a disk/joint that occupies the entire internal space of the leg (the disk/joint D25mm is suitable for me). When using a cotter pin, move 2 rounds down and away from the marker. 7sc to the left (for the right hind leg). 7sc to the right (for the left hind leg) and insert the disc with the cotter pin. Continue to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the upper part slightly.

Info :

Further, the right and left hind legs are crocheted in the same way.

Round 20 :

(5sc, dec)*3 (18)

Round 21 :

(1sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 22 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn. Tighten the hole and hide the ends inside. Pay attention to the photo below. As an example, I showed you two ways of fastening: cotter pin - on the right foot and plastic joint - on the left. Choose the option you like and use it for the hind and forelegs.

β€” Forelegs :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round should pass at the back, in the center. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

5sc, (3-dc Bobble st in black, 2sc in dark gray)*3, 4sc

Round 5-7 :

18sc (3 rounds)

Round 8 :

8sc, dec, 8sc (17)

Round 9 :

17sc (17)

Round 10 :

5sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 5sc (15)

Round 11 :

15sc (15)

Round 12 :

6sc, dec, 7sc (14)

Round 13 :

6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Round 14 :

dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Round 15 :

6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Round 16 :

dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Info :

Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. While stuffing tightly only the lower part.

Left foreleg - For plastic joints legs fastening :

Round 17. 6sc, 2inc, 1sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 3sc (16)

Round 18 :

dec, 9sc, 2sc on the chain, 1sc, dec (14)

Left foreleg - For cotter pins legs fastening :

Round 17. 6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Round 18 :

dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Right foreleg - For plastic joints legs fastening :

Round 17. 3sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 1sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Round 18 :

dec, 1sc, 2sc on the chain, 9sc, dec (14)

Right foreleg - For cotter pins legs fastening :

Round 17. 6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16) 18. dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Info :

Further, the right and left forelegs are crocheted in the same way.

Round 19 :

(5sc, dec)*2 (12)

Round 20 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn. Tighten the hole and hide the ends inside.

β€” Wings (make 2) :

Info :

Take dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm, wire with a diameter of 0.9mm (23cm-2pcs., 19cm-4pcs., 13cm-2pcs). Better take it with a margin). Bend the end of each wire as shown in the photo. In the process be careful, work in rows. There will be rows where we will make t-ch and turn and rows where we will skip 1 stitch.

Info :

Ch28, start from the second chain on the hook, working around the wire 23cm long (start from the bend end).

Row 1 :

27sc (27), turn. After that do not work with the wire.

Row 2 :

from the 2nd stitch: 8sc, dec, 12sc, dec (22), turn.

Row 3 :

from the 2nd stitch: 11sc, dec, 6sc (18), turn.

Row 4 :

from the 2nd stitch: 16sc (16), turn.

Row 5 :

from the 2nd stitch: 13sc (13), turn.

Row 6 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), turn.

Row 7 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Row 8 :

from the 2nd stitch: 8sc (8), turn.

Row 9 :

from the 2nd stitch: 4sc (4), turn.

Row 10 :

from the 2nd stitch: 3sc (3), ch3, turn.

Info :

Next, crochet with a wire 19cm long (start from the bend end).

Row 11 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 3sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row (18), turn.

Row 12 :

from the 2nd stitch: 15sc, dec (16), turn.

Row 13 :

from the 2nd stitch: 7sc (7), turn.

Row 14 :

from the 2nd stitch: 6sc (6), turn.

Row 15 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc, +1sc into the corner, 4sc along stitches of the previous row (10), turn.

Row 16 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), t-ch, turn.

Row 17 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row (13), turn (1 stitch of the previous row remains unused!)

Row 18 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), t-ch, turn.

Row 19 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Row 20 :

from the 2nd stitch: 8sc (8), t-ch, turn.

Row 21 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5), turn.

Row 22 :

from the 2nd stitch: 3sc, inc (5), 3ch, turn.

Info :

Next, crochet with a wire 13cm long (start from the bend end).

Row 23 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 5sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 1sc along stitch of the previous row, +2sc into the corners of the previous rows (19), turn.

Row 24 :

from the 2nd stitch: 18sc (18), turn.

Row 25 :

from the 2nd stitch: 17sc (17), turn.

Row 26 :

from the 2nd stitch: 16sc (16), turn.

Row 27 :

from the 2nd stitch: 14sc (14), turn.

Row 28 :

from the 2nd stitch: 13sc (13), t-ch, turn.

Row 29 :

from the 2nd stitch: 11sc (11), turn.

Row 30 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc, inc (11), t-ch, turn.

Row 31 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Row 32 :

from the 2nd stitch: 7sc, inc (9), 3ch, turn.

Row 33 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 8sc (8), turn.

Row 34 :

from the 2nd stitch: 4sc (4), turn.

Row 35 :

from the 2nd stitch: 3sc (3), turn.

Row 36 :

from the 2nd stitch: 2sc, +1sc into the corner, 4sc along stitches of the previous row (7), turn.

Row 37 :

from the 2nd stitch: 4sc, dec (5), t-ch, turn.

Row 38 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5), t-ch, turn.

Row 39 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5)

Infos :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Bend the wire frame along the upper side of the wing. Make an edging along the frame. Attach the dark gray yarn to the marked points in the photo (the exit point of the first wire) and crochet sc along the upper side of the wing (see photo). The green arrow shows the direction of crocheting.

β€” Tail :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round should pass at the back, in the center. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.

Round 1 :

4sc in a MR (6)

Round 2-4 :

4sc (3 rounds)

Round 5 :

(1sc, inc)*2 (6)

Round 6-8 :

6sc (3 rounds)

Round 9 :

(2sc, inc)*2 (8)

Round 10-11 :

8sc (2 rounds)

Round 12 :

(3sc, inc)*2 (10)

Round 13 :

10sc (10)

Round 14 :

2sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 2sc (12)

Round 15 :

12sc (12)

Round 16 :

(5sc, inc)*2 (14)

Round 17 :

14sc (14)

Round 18 :

3sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 3sc (16)

Round 19 :

16sc (16)

Round 20 :

(7sc, inc)*2 (18)

Round 21-22 :

18sc (2 rounds)

Round 23 :

4sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 4sc (20)

Round 24-26 :

20sc (3 rounds)

Round 27 :

(9sc, inc)*2 (22)

Round 28-30 :

22sc (3 rounds)

Round 31 :

5sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 5sc (24)

Round 32-33 :

24sc (2 rounds)

Round 34 :

(11sc, inc)*2 (26)

Round 35-36 :

26sc (2 rounds)

Round 37 :

6sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 6sc (28)

Round 38 :

28sc

Round 39 :

(13sc, inc)*2 (30)

Infos :

Do not cut the yarn. We will crochet the body. Prepare a wire frame. We need a wire with a diameter of 1.6mm and 45cm long. Bend one end, as shown in the photo. Insert the frame into the tail and stuff it.

β€” Body :

Info :

Continue crocheting from the tail. The marker of the beginning of the round passes in the back in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. Start counting rounds from the beginning for convenience. Focus on 4 inc in round 1.

Round 1 :

11sc, inc, 1sc, 4inc, 1sc, inc, 11sc (36)

Round 2 :

6sc, inc, 22sc, inc, 6sc (38)

Round 3 :

14sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 14sc (40)

Round 4 :

10sc, inc, 18sc, inc, 10sc (42)

Round 5 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

Round 6 :

48sc (48)

Round 7 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 8-9 :

54sc (2 rounds)

Info :

In round 10 crochet the holes for the hind legs joints fastening and mark the place for the cotter pins fastening.

For plastic joints legs fastening - Round 10 :

13sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 24sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 13sc (54)

Round 11 :

13sc, 2sc on the chain, 24sc, 2sc on the chain, 13sc (54)

For cotter pins legs fastening - Round 10 :

54sc (mark space between stitches 14 and 15 and stitches 40 and 41 with a thread in a contrasting color for convenience) (54)

Round 11 :

54sc (54)

Round 12-16 :

54sc (5 rounds)

Round 17 :

8sc, dec, (16sc, dec)*2, 8sc (51)

Round 18 :

20sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 20sc (49)

Info :

Insert the cotter pins / joints of the hind legs into the marked points / holes of ch2 in the body and twist / secure.

Round 19 :

49sc (49)

Round 20 :

20sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 20sc (47)

Round 21 :

47sc (47)

Round 22 :

21sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 21sc (45)

Round 23 :

(13sc, dec)*3 (42)

Round 24 :

42sc (42)

Round 25 :

6sc, dec, (12sc, dec)*2, 6sc (39)

Round 26 :

39sc (39)

Round 27 :

(11sc, dec)*3 (36)

Info :

In round 28 crochet the holes for the wings frames, forelegs joints fastening and mark the place for the cotter pins fastening.

For plastic joints legs fastening - Round 28 :

3sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 4sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 16sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 4sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 3sc (36) - don't confuse! Ch1 - for the wings frames, ch2 - for the plastic joints.

Round 29 :

3sc, 1sc on the chain, 4sc, 2sc on the chain, 16sc, 2sc on the chain, 4sc, 1sc on the chain, 3sc (36)

Round 30 :

8sc, dec, 16sc, dec, 8sc (34)

Round 31 :

34sc (34)

Round 32 :

(15sc, dec)*2 (32)

Round 33 :

32sc (32)

Info :

Insert the cotter pins / joints of the forelegs into the marked points / holes of ch2 in the body and twist / secure (in the same way as for the hind legs).

Round 34 :

7sc, dec, 14sc, dec, 7sc (30)

Info :

Insert the wire frame of the wings into the holes in round 28, connect it with the body frame, wrap it with insulating tape. Sew the wings to the back. Continue to gradually stuff the body with fiberfill.

Round 35 :

4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*2, 4sc (27)

Round 36 :

(7sc, dec)*3 (24)

Round 37 :

24sc (24)

Info :

It is not necessary to stuff the neck tightly.

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Pass the wire frame into the hole on the head in rounds 27-28, and sew the head to the body, as shown in the photo.

β€” Tail Fin (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch13, start from the second chain on the hook, work in rows in back loops:

Row 1 :

12sc (12), ch3, turn

Row 2 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13), turn.

Row 3 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), ch3, turn

Row 4 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13), turn.

Row 5 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), ch3, turn

Row 6 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix the tail fins to the tip of the tail (see photo) and sew.

β€” Spines (make 16) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm - 4sc in a MR. Pull the ring. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Attach the spines to the tail, body and head (see photo) and sew.

Info :

Sew on seed beads if desired. Tint the wings and tail fins with black dry pastel.

Assembly Instructions

  • Pass the wire frame from the body into the tail and head through the hole in rounds 27-28, align and sew the head to the body securely using the long yarn tail and whipstitch, then hide ends inside.
  • Position eyes and eyelids on the head with sewing pins (use the photos for guidance), draw pupils with textile paint on the wrong side of the eye pieces, then sew and glue the eyes in place at final assembly.
  • Fix ears, spines, and small decorative pieces with sewing pins in the locations shown in the photos, then sew them firmly using the long tail left from each piece.
  • Insert plastic joints or cotter pins into the marked ch2 holes in rounds 10 and 28 of the body for hind and forelegs, secure them (twist/tighten) and check positioning before final stuffing.
  • Insert and connect the wire wing frames into the holes in round 28, wrap the connection with insulating tape, align the wings, then sew the edged wing upper sides to the back of the body.
  • Attach tail fins to the tip of the tail and sew; add spines along tail, body and head and optionally sew on seed beads for extra detail.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers to keep track of the beginning of each round and to mark special holes (ch1/ch2) for frames and joints before you change stitches.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff pieces gradually, filling the lower parts (feet) more firmly and the neck less tightly to preserve the intended shape and mobility.
  • πŸ’‘When working with wire frames, bend and secure ends as shown, leave recommended wire lengths and wrap connection points with insulating tape to prevent slippage or poking.
  • πŸ’‘Mark spaces for cotter pins with a contrasting thread as suggested so you can reliably insert joints in the correct locations during assembly.

This Toothless-inspired dragon pattern lets you create a poseable, detailed amigurumi with wired wings and jointed legs. Perfect for gifting or displaying, the finished toy measures about 30cm using the recommended materials. Add painted pupils, seed bead accents, and tidy finishings to make it uniquely yours. 🧢✨🧡

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The size of the finished toy when using the indicated materials is about 30cm.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size and wire/frame fit. If using thicker yarn, choose appropriately thicker wire and larger joints.

Do I need special tools for the wired wings and joints?

You will need wire of the specified diameters, round nose pliers to shape wire ends, insulating tape to wrap frames, and either plastic joints or cotter pins for leg fastening.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crafters complete this project in 12-15 hours over several sessions, depending on experience and complexity of assembling wired frames and joints.