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Delilah Boho Bag Pattern

Delilah Boho Bag Pattern
4.1★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.9K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Stylish Touch

An elegant detail to elevate any look, combining traditional techniques with contemporary design sensibilities.

About This Delilah Boho Bag Pattern

This pattern creates the Delilah Boho Bag — a decorative, textured shoulder bag with a floral mandala-style front panel and long fringe. The design uses Sport/Baby/4ply cotton yarn and a 2mm hook to achieve crisp stitch definition. You will make two identical panels, join them, add a top edge and strap, sew a lining and attach a button loop and fringe for a finished look.

Delilah Boho Bag Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern includes clear round-by-round instructions, special stitch explanations (CSdc and Popcorn) and sewing guidance for the lining. Perfect for crafters who enjoy a project with shaping, texture and finishing details.

Why You'll Love This Delilah Boho Bag Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines a beautiful, textured mandala motif with practical bag construction for a piece that looks handmade but polished. I enjoy how the popcorns and front/back post stitches create such lovely depth and shadow. The fringe and lining options let me personalise every bag with colour and fabric choices. Making the two panels and joining them is relaxing but rewarding — you get a real sense of achievement when it all comes together.

Delilah Boho Bag Pattern step 1 - construction progress Delilah Boho Bag Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Delilah Boho Bag Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Delilah Boho Bag Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customise this bag by changing yarn colours — try tonal neutrals for a textured classic or bold contrasting colours for a statement piece.

If you want a smaller or larger bag I often change yarn weight and hook size: bulky yarn with a bigger hook gives a chunky bag, while thinner yarn creates a delicate mini version.

I sometimes replace the cotton with a cotton/acrylic blend for extra durability and slightly softer drape, but I avoid pure acrylic if I want the bag to hold shape.

Make the strap longer or shorter by adding or reducing the number of rows; you can also use a thicker strap by working more stitch width for greater comfort.

Try adding pockets to the lining pattern for extra organisation — a simple patch pocket sewn into the lining is a quick upgrade.

I often change the fringe style: use more strands for a fuller fringe, or shorter lengths for a subtler finish that suits daily use better.

For a boho-chic twist, embroider a few stitches on the panel before joining, or add small beads to the tassels for sparkle.

If you prefer a crossbody style, attach leather strap ends or metal rings to each side and use a detachable strap for versatility and ease of washing.

Experiment with the button: a wooden button gives rustic charm, while a bright resin button adds a pop of colour — adjust the ch20 loop size if your button differs.

I also sometimes make a pair of matching coin pouches using the centre motif and a folded seam — it's a great way to use leftover yarn and create a coordinated set.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the chainless starting double crochet (CSdc) at the start of rounds that begin with a double crochet; follow the CSdc instructions to keep the edge neat and consistent. ✗ Not blocking both panels to the same size before assembly; block each panel to the same measurements to ensure the bag sits and joins evenly. ✗ Crocheting the top edge too tightly which reduces the opening width; use relaxed tension on the top edge to match the width of the bag before stitching the strap. ✗ Attaching the fringe too sparsely or unevenly which disrupts the curve; count and mark stitches around the curve and attach tassels every third stitch for even coverage.

Delilah Boho Bag Pattern

Make a stylish Delilah Boho Bag with this detailed crochet pattern designed for makers who love texture and a relaxed boho vibe. You will create two beautiful crocheted panels, join them, add a sturdy strap, liner and fringe for a finished bag. The pattern includes step-by-step instructions, special stitch tutorials and sewing guidance to help you finish a professional-looking bag.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Delilah Boho Bag Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Sport/Baby/4ply yarn (recommended) - Bendigo Woollen Mills 4ply 100% cotton, 200g ball - use approximately 180g/660yds (1 Ball)
  • 02
    Alternative: DK/Light Worsted/8ply yarn for a larger bag — adjust hook and quantities accordingly
  • 03
    Lining fabric: de-lustered satin recommended, or cotton fabric — amount depends on final bag measurements (see Lining section)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook 2.0mm
  • 02
    Scissors
  • 03
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 04
    Stitch markers
  • 05
    Measuring tape or ruler
  • 06
    Pins for blocking and sewing the lining
  • 07
    2cm diameter button (for closure)
  • 08
    Sewing machine (recommended for lining)
  • 09
    Iron (for pressing fringe and lining)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Front Panel :

Round 1 :

Magic ring. Ch1, 16sc into ring, slst in sc (16 sc)

Round 2 :

Ch1, *sc, ch2, skip 1 sc* x 8, slst in sc, slst in ch2 sp (8 sc, 8 ch2 sps)

Round 3 :

See Special Stitches for PC stitch. (PC, ch2) in each ch2 sp, slst in PC, slst in ch2 sp (8 PC, 8 ch2 sps)

Round 4 :

(PC, ch3, PC) in each ch2 sp, slst in PC, slst in ch2 sp (16 PC, 8 ch2 sps)

Round 5 :

*(PC, ch5, PC) in ch3 sp, dc between next 2 PC* x 8, slst in PC, slst in ch5 sp (16 PC, 8 dc, 8 ch5 sps)

Round 6 :

*9dc in ch5 sp, FPtr around dc* x 8, slst in dc (72 dc, 8 FPtr)

Round 7 :

Ch1, *BPsc x 9, (FPtr, ch3, FPtr) around FPtr* x 8, slst in BPsc (Stitch counts are per side for rounds 7-17: 9 BLsc, 2 FPtr, 1 ch3 sp)

Round 8 :

Ch1, *sc x 9, FPdc around FPtr, 5dc in ch3 sp, FPdc around FPtr* x 8, slst in sc, slst in next sc (9 sc, 2 FPdc, 5 dc)

Round 9 :

Ch1, *sc x 7, skip 1 sc, FPdc, 2BLdc x 5, FPdc, skip 1 sc* x 8, slst in sc, slst in next sc (7 sc, 2 FPdc, 10 BLdc)

Round 10 :

Ch1, *sc x 5, skip 1 sc, FPdc, [2dc, dc] x 5, FPdc, skip 1 sc* x 8, slst in sc, slst in next sc (5 sc, 2 FPdc, 15 dc)

Round 11 :

Ch1, *sc x 3, skip 1 sc, FPdc, [dc x 2, 2dc] x 5, FPdc, skip 1 sc* x 8, slst in sc, slst in next sc (3 sc, 2 FPdc, 20 dc)

Round 12 :

Ch1, *sc, skip 1 sc, FPdc, BPsc x 20, FPdc, skip 1 sc* x 8, slst in sc, slst in FPdc, slst in BPsc (1 sc, 2 FPdc, 20 BPsc)

Round 13 :

*dc x 20, FPdc2tog using next 2 FPdc (skipping sc)* x 8, slst in dc, slst in next 3 dc (20 dc, 1 FPdc2tog)

Round 14 :

Replace the first BPdc of the round with (BPsc, ch2). Ch1, *[BPdc, ch1] x 14, BPdc6tog using next 6 dc (skipping dc2tog), ch1* x 8, slst in top ch2, slst in ch1 space (14 BPdc, 1 BPdc6tog, 15 ch1 sps)

Round 15 :

Mark the 3rd sc in each set. Ch1, *sc in ch1 sp, 2sc in next 11 ch1 sps, sc in ch1 sp, skip BPdc, skip ch1 sp, skip BPdc6tog, skip ch1 sp, skip BPdc* x 8, slst in sc, slst in next (24 sc)

Round 16 :

*[dc, ch2, skip 1 sc] x 9, dc2tog using next sc and next marked stitch, ch2* x 8, replace last ch2 with dc in first dc (9 dc, 10 ch2 sps, 1 dc2tog)

Round 17 :

First PC goes into the sp created by the joining dc. Note that there is no chain space between the 2 PC either side of the dc2tog. *[PC in ch2 sp, ch3] x 9, PC in ch2 sp, skip dc2tog* x 8, slst in PC. Fasten off. (10 PC, 9 ch3 spaces)

Round 18 :

Attach yarn to the 5th space of any 'petal'. There is no ch3 space between the 2 PC either side of the dc2tog. Skip all PC. I have broken this round down into steps to make it easier to understand. 3dc in next 6 ch3 sps (photo 18a), *3hdc in next ch3 sp, 3sc in next 5 ch3 sps, 3hdc in next ch3 sp, 3dc in next 2 ch3 sps* x 5 (photo 18b), 3dc in next 3 ch3 sps, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in next ch3 space (photo 18c), 3dc in next 5 ch3 sps, 3hdc in next ch3 sp, 3sc in next 5 ch3 sps (photo 18d), 3hdc in next ch3 sp, 3dc in next 5 ch3 sps, 3dc in first ch3 sp, ch1, sc in first dc (counts as ch2 sp) (photo 18e).

Round 19 :

3dc into space created by joining sc, dc x 18, hdc x 3, *sc x 15, hdc x 3, dc x 6, hdc x 3* x 4, sc x 15, hdc x 3, dc x 18, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2 space, dc x 15, hdc x 6, sc x 15, hdc x 6, dc x 15, 3dc in first space, ch1, sc in first dc. (102 dc, 42 hdc, 90 sc, 2 ch2 sps)

Round 20 :

3dc into space created by joining sc, dc x 21, hdc x 3, sc x 15, hdc x 3, dc x 87, hdc x 3, sc x 15, hdc x 3, dc x 21, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2 space, dc x 18, hdc x 3, sc x 21, hdc x 3, dc x 18, 3dc into first space, ch1, sc in first dc. (177 dc, 18 hdc, 51 sc, 2 sps)

Round 21 :

3dc in sp created by joining sc (mark first dc), dc x 177, 5dc in ch2 sp (mark 3rd dc), dc x 69, 2dc in first sp, slst in dc. Fasten off. (256 dc)

Info :

Repeat the pattern for the second panel then block both panels to the same size.

— Blocking :

Info :

Blocking will give a neat, flat, even look to your project while making it easier to keep the correct shape. You can either dip your project in cold water, or spray it with clean water. Squeeze it gently to remove any excess water, but do not wring or twist it. Pin your project out to the desired shape and size on blocking boards or foam mats. Allow it to dry completely before unpinning. I blocked my panels to 32cm x 32cm (12.6in x 12.6in). The size you block your panels to doesn't have to be the same as mine, just make sure both panels are blocked to the same size.

— Joining the panels together :

Info :

With the wrong sides of the panels facing each other, and the corners aligned, attach the yarn to the left-hand marked stitches of both panels. Ch1, sc in corresponding stitches of both panels of the bag all the way around the curved edge, stopping at the right-hand corner marked stitch. 183 sc. Do not fasten off, continue on to top edge.

— Top Edge :

Round 1 :

Mark the first st of each round. Ch1, sc x 73 starting with the next dc, sc in the first sc of the joining row, sc x 37, ch20 (button loop), sc x 36, sc in the last sc of the joining row (148 sc, 1 ch20)

Round 2 :

Sc x 148 (moving the button loop to the outside of the bag) (148 sc)

Round 3 :

Sc x 143 (finishing with 5 stitches left). Do not fasten off, continue on to the strap. (143 sc)

— Strap :

Row 1 :

Ch2 at the start of the row does not count as a stitch. Ch2, dc in same stitch as last sc, dc x 11, turn (12 dc)

Row 2-61 :

Ch2, dc in first dc, dc x 11, skip ch2, turn. Approximately 60cm (24in) long. (12 dc)

Info :

With no twists in the strap, place the right side of the strap against the right side of the bag. Ch1, slst the strap to the bag with 6 slst either side of the seam. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

— Fringe :

Info :

Cut 135 strands of yarn at 30cm (12in) each. (27 tassels with 5 strands in each = 135 strands). Attach the first tassel to the 53rd sc of the joining row by following these instructions: Fold 5 strands in half. Place a hook through the indicated stitch from the back to the front. Place the folded end of the strands over the hook and pull them through the stitch. Yarn over with the strands. Pull through the stitch and tighten the strands as necessary. Repeat for the remaining strands in every 3rd stitch around the bottom curve of the bag. There should be 27 tassels. Iron the fringe and trim the ends with sharp scissors as needed.

— Lining :

Infos :

Basic sewing knowledge and skills assumed. Supplies: crochet bag, paper bigger than the bag, pencil, ruler, scissors, pins, lining fabric, thread to match the bag, sewing machine. Choose a fabric you are happy with if the wrong side shows through the crochet. The width of the fabric needs to be twice the width of your bag, plus 10cm. The length of the fabric needs to be the height of your bag, plus 5cm. Pattern: 1) Fold the strap to the back of the bag, place bag in centre of paper and press flat. Mark top edge where strap joins bag and draw around curve. 2) Remove bag and draw a straight line joining marks. 3) Add 2cm above the red line and 1cm around the curved edge. 4) Fold the pattern in half sideways and cut through both layers along the green line to get the largest pattern. 5) Pin the pattern onto your fabric with the selvedge parallel to the grainline. Cut two pieces if needed. 6) With right sides together, sew around the curved edge with 1cm (0.4in) seam allowance. Top stitch the seam. 7) Fold the top edge over to the wrong side by 1cm then again by another 1cm and pin. Sew close to the first fold. 8) Fold the button loop down and secure out of the way. 9) Place the lining inside the bag with the right side facing inwards, side seams aligned. Pin the lining to the bag just below the top edge adjusting crochet as necessary to get a neat fit. Sew close to the fold of the lining being careful not to sew the button loop or straps. Fasten off and weave in ends.

— Special Stitches :

Info :

Chainless Starting Double Crochet (CSdc) - CSdc counts as a double crochet. CSdc replaces the traditional ch3 at the start of a round and produces a consistent look to all double crochet stitches as well as disguising the start of the round better. This stitch is used at the start of every round when the round starts with a double crochet. This includes the first double crochet of every popcorn stitch at the start of the round. If you find it difficult to master then I recommend you start the round with ch2 then crochet a regular double crochet into the stitch. At the end of the round, skip the ch2 and stitch into the double crochet to join the round. Steps: 1. Lengthen the active loop to the height of a double crochet. 2. Place your finger on top of the loop to hold it in place. 3. Wrap the hook counter clockwise around the lengthened loop. (The hook will come towards you then continue around the back of the active loop.) 4. Hook into the stitch. 5. Yarn over, pull through the stitch. 6. Yarn over, pull through 3 loops on the hook. 7. Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on the hook. 8. The CSdc is complete. Mark the CSdc stitch loops to make it easier to find at the end of the round. Popcorn (PC) - 4 double crochet in the same stitch, drop the loop from the hook, insert hook into the first double crochet, grab the dropped loop and pull it through the stitch on the hook, ch1 to close. Ch1 is not counted as a stitch. Use a CSdc for the first double crochet of all PC at the start of a round.

Assembly Instructions

  • Join the two blocked panels with wrong sides together: attach yarn to the left-hand marked stitches, ch1 and sc through corresponding stitches of both panels around the curved edge until the right-hand marked stitch (183 sc). Do not fasten off; continue to the top edge.
  • Crochet the top edge in place: work rounds of sc around the top edge, create the button loop (ch20) in round 1, then work a finishing round moving the button loop to the outside. Do not fasten off before starting the strap.
  • Make the strap by working a 12-dc wide strip for approximately 60cm (rows 2-61), align the right sides and slst the strap to the bag with 6 slst on either side of the seam. Fasten off and weave in ends.
  • Sew the lining following the pattern template: cut fabric to twice the bag width plus 10cm and height plus 5cm, sew curved seams with 1cm allowance, turn and topstitch, then pin and sew the lining into the bag just below the top edge, avoiding button loop and straps.
  • Attach the fringe: fold 5 strands to make each tassel, attach beginning at the 53rd sc of the joining row and then in every 3rd stitch around the bottom curve to make 27 tassels; trim and press as needed.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to mark key points such as the joined stitches and the first stitch of each round to maintain alignment when joining and shaping.
  • 💡Block both panels to the same final dimensions (recommended 32cm x 32cm) before joining to ensure the bag sits evenly and the top edge matches.
  • 💡When creating the top edge and button loop, maintain consistent tension to ensure the opening width matches the blocked panel measurements.
  • 💡Take care when sewing the lining to avoid catching the button loop or strap stitches and to achieve a neat finish along the top edge.

This Delilah Boho Bag pattern brings a touch of bohemian charm to your crochet projects and makes a thoughtful handmade gift. The textured mandala panels, crisp cotton stitch definition and fringe create a striking, versatile accessory you can dress up or down. Enjoy the process of stitching, blocking and sewing it together — the finished bag is worth every step. 🧶✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished bag measures approximately 32cm x 32cm (12.6in x 12.6in) for each blocked panel, excluding the strap and fringe; overall dimensions will vary slightly with yarn and tension.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but the finished size and stitch counts will change; the pattern recommends Sport/Baby/4ply for a 32cm panel or DK/Light Worsted (8ply) for a larger bag.

Do I need a sewing machine for the lining?

A sewing machine makes the lining steps quicker and neater, but you can hand-sew the lining using a neat backstitch if you prefer or do not have a machine.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crafters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time will vary with experience level, yarn choice and whether you sew the lining by hand or machine.