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Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Amigurumi Pattern

Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Amigurumi Pattern
4.3★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.3K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🐥

Charming Critter

Delightful animal designs with sweet details that capture the essence of your favorite woodland and farmyard friends.

About This Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern makes a weighted frog door-stopper with a removable-feeling head and a sewn-on neck, arms, legs and eyes. It uses worsted weight yarn and a bit of stuffing beads to add the necessary weight for a functional door-stopper. The design includes separate top and bottom head pieces that are joined to form a mouth, plus a curly tongue for character.

Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You will learn to work in rounds, change colors, use back loop only rows and add weighted stuffing for stability. The pattern is photo-supported and ideal for crafters who enjoy assembly and finishing details.

Why You'll Love This Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it brings together playful character design and practical function into one finished piece. I enjoy the way the separate head halves form a mouth when sewn together — it adds real personality to the frog. The use of a bean bag or stuffing beads inside makes it satisfyingly heavy for a door-stopper, which I find very rewarding. I also appreciate how adaptable the pattern is; small changes like eye size or yarn weight can produce a wide variety of final sizes and expressions.

Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this frog with different yarn colors and eye sizes — switch to a variegated green or bright neon for a playful look.

You can make the frog larger by using bulky yarn and a larger hook, which also gives you more surface for fun facial details and a chunkier weight.

To make a tiny keychain version, use fingering or sport weight yarn and a much smaller hook, then skip the bead bag and use only stuffing.

I often change out the eye style — buttons, safety eyes, or embroidered eyes all give different personalities to the frog.

Try adding tiny embellishments like a little crocheted bow tie, a mini hat, or embroidered spots to personalize each frog you make.

If you want a sturdier door-stopper, add more poly pellets in a separate nylon pouch and place it at the base of the body for extra heft.

Change the tongue style by making it straight, curly, or doubled-over for different expressions — a looped or crocheted spiral looks especially fun.

Experiment with textured stitches for the body (like bobbles or front post stitches) to create a more tactile, decorative finish.

I sometimes make a set using matching yarn for a coordinated gift set — one large and one mini frog make a charming pair.

Don't be afraid to mix materials: a bit of felt for inner mouth details or a small piece of cardboard for mouth reinforcement can make assembly easier and results neater.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers during rounds can lead to losing your place and miscounting stitches; place a visible marker at the start of every round to stay on track. ✗ Waiting until the final decreases to stuff the piece can create lumps and uneven shapes; stuff gradually as you decrease to keep the shape smooth and consistent. ✗ Forgetting to insert the bead bag before closing the opening will make it difficult to add weight later; insert the bead bag when the opening is still large enough to work through and then finish stuffing. ✗ Using too large a hook with worsted weight yarn will make your stitching loose and the bead bag visible; use the recommended hook size G and maintain a reasonably tight tension so stuffing does not show. ✗ Not securing the button or cardboard piece in the mouth can cause it to shift; sew the button or cardboard with several passes and hide the final knot inside for a neat finish.

Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Amigurumi Pattern

Make a playful crochet frog door-stopper that doubles as a fun amigurumi and a practical home accessory. This pattern walks you through each part — head, eyes, tongue, body, legs, arms and neck — with clear round-by-round instructions so you can follow along easily. Perfect as a handmade gift or a whimsical addition to your home, the finished frog is weighted for stability and full of personality. Enjoy stitching a charming, useful project you can finish and display proudly.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), green - one skein is plenty for main body
  • 02
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), black - very little amount for mouth
  • 03
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), white - small amount for eyes
  • 04
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), red - small amount for tongue and details
  • 05
    Stuffing - polyester fiberfill for shaping
  • 06
    Stuffing beads / poly pellets - for weight (use inside a nylon stocking or mesh bag)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size G (4.0 mm) or G hook
  • 02
    Safety eyes 10 mm (2 pieces)
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Darning / yarn needle for sewing
  • 05
    Stitch markers
  • 06
    Measuring tape
  • 07
    Nylon stocking or mesh bag (to contain beads)
  • 08
    2 round buttons size 2 1/4" OR thick cardboard cut to that size (used in mouth to keep flat)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Top of Head :

Row 1 :

With black yarn, use the magic circle method if you choose OR chain 2 and single crochet 6 in first chain space (6)

Row 2 :

(increase row) sc 2x in each stitch from row one *inc x 6* around (12)

Row 3 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then (once) 1sc in next stitch, *inc then 1sc* around (18)

Row 4 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 2 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc* around (24)

Row 5 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 3 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (30)

Info :

CHANGE TO GREEN YARN

Row 6 :

BACK LOOP for this row only sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Row 7 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Row 8 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Row 9 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Row 10 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Row 11 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Info :

insert button here or cutout cardboard piece to keep flat – secure it if you choose, I secured my button by sewing it on with the final knot inside so you can't see it from the outside

Row 12 :

(decrease row) 1sc in next 2 stitches then decrease *1sc, 1sc, dec * x 7 sc in last 2 stitches (23)

Row 13 :

(decrease row) 1sc in next 2 stitches then decrease *1sc, 1sc, dec * x 5 dec and 1sc in last 3 stitches (17)

Row 14 :

sc around each stitch (no dec / inc) (17)

Info :

insert bead bag here for weight before it gets too small of an opening **you will be putting regular stuffing to finish off the “stuffing of the head” after the bean bag. Keep stuffing as we decrease. If your stitching is loose and you see the white stuffing or bean bag, you can also use the same colour green yarn to stuff it. We are not using too much yarn so it's not a big expense to use yarn to stuff the head**

Row 15 :

(decrease row) decrease then 1sc *dec and 1sc * x 5 then one more decrease (11)

Row 16 :

(decrease row) decrease x 5 then sc in last stitch *dec x5 * then 1sc (6)

Row 17 :

cinch last 6 stitches together tightly and finish off

— Bottom of Head :

Row 1 :

With black yarn, use the magic circle method if you choose OR chain 2 and single crochet 6 in first chain space (6)

Row 2 :

(increase row) sc 2x in each stitch from row one *inc x 6* around (12)

Row 3 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then (once) 1sc in next stitch, *inc then 1sc* around (18)

Row 4 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 2 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc* around (24)

Row 5 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 3 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (30)

Info :

CHANGE TO GREEN YARN

Row 6 :

BACK LOOP for this row only sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Row 7 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Row 8 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Row 9 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Info :

insert button / cardboard piece **I recommend using green yarn to stuff the remainder of the bottom of the head**

Row 10 :

(decrease row) *dec, 1sc * x 10 (20)

Row 11 :

(decrease row) *dec, 1sc * x 10 (10)

Row 12 :

cinch the remainder 10 stitches tightly, finish off

— Tongue :

Tongue :

using RED yarn Chain 25, turn, 3sc in first chain from hook, sc in next chain, repeat until there is 5 chains remaining. SC in last 5 chains. Finish off

— Eyes :

Info :

EYES – using WHITE yarn, make 2

Row 1 :

using the magic circle OR chain 2 and sc x5 in first chain space

Row 2 :

(increase row) 2sc in each stitch (10)

Row 3 :

sc around (10)

Row 4 :

sc around (10)

Info :

finish off

Info :

INSERT safety eyes in the top of the eyes made. When using the chain 2 method you end up with a tiny “hole” in the top of the eyes perfect for inserting the safety eyes. No they are not too big for the safety eyes to fall out if secured properly

— Body of Frog :

Row 1 :

Using the magic circle method if you choose OR chain 2 and single crochet 6 in first chain space (6)

Row 2 :

(increase row) sc 2x in each stitch from row one *inc x 6* around (12)

Row 3 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then (once) 1sc in next stitch, *inc then 1sc* around (18)

Row 4 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 2 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc* around (24)

Row 5 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 3 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (30)

Row 6 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 4 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (36)

Row 7 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 5 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (42)

Row 8 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 6 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (48)

Row 9 :

sc around (48)

Row 10 :

sc around (48)

Row 11 :

sc around (48)

Row 12 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 6 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (42)

Row 13 :

sc around (42)

Row 14 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 5 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (36)

Row 15 :

sc around (36)

Row 16 :

sc around (36)

Row 17 :

sc around (36)

Row 18 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 4 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (30)

Row 19 :

sc around (30)

Row 20 :

sc around (30)

Info :

** start stuffing body as we'll be decreasing more and more. You can also insert another bean bag here for weight as well. My stitching is on the tighter side so I didn't need to use yarn to stuff the body here. You can – it's ok **

Row 21 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 3 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (24)

Row 22 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 2 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (18)

Row 23 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc *dec, 1sc * 6x (12)

Row 24 :

decrease around x 6 (6)

Row 25 :

cinch around last 6 stitches and finish off

— Arms and Legs :

Arms and Legs (P1) :

make 2 of each – green yarn Chain 21, turn. sc in chain closest to hook (20). Once at the end – do not finish off – chain 6 and slip stitch to the first chain, repeat that 3 more times to end up with 4 "finger / toes". finish off after the 4th slip stitch. Sometimes there will be a small hole where you did you slip stitches, sew up with the yarn tails once you have finished off.

— Neck :

Neck :

green yarn (works out to approx 6" before folding) Chain 27, turn. HDC starting in 2nd chain from hook (25). HDC 4 more rows.

Info :

Since the neck is constantly on the floor, I have made it this long so that I can fold over to make it thicker – sew up the sides; sewing up the bottom not so important as we will be attaching this to the body.

— Assembly :

First :

Sew the tongue to the back of the bottom of head. Sew it up to the centre of the black circle so it doesn't move that much.

Second :

you will now be sewing the top and bottom parts of the head together. You will only sew it over 10 stitches as you want to make sure the, now mouth, works.

Third step :

Attach eyes to top of head.

Forth step :

Lets sew the legs onto the frog body. Place them on the bottom of the larger part of the body. As well, lets sew the neck onto the top of the body.

Fifth step :

Sew the arms onto the neck. Place them about a half inch from the top of the neck as we still have to sew the neck and head together.

Sixth step :

We're here – lets sew the neck onto the bottom of the head – in the middle.

Info :

WE ARE DONE !! (final photo shows full assembled frog door-stopper)

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew the tongue to the back of the bottom of the head and secure it to the center of the black mouth circle so it doesn't move.
  • Sew the top and bottom head halves together over about 10 stitches to form the mouth, leaving the mouth opening functional and centered.
  • Attach the safety eyes to the top of the eyes made and sew the eyes securely onto the top of the head.
  • Sew the neck to the top of the body, fold and sew the neck sides for thickness, then sew the neck to the bottom of the head in the center.
  • Place legs on the bottom of the larger body part and sew them on evenly; position arms on the neck about a half inch from the top and sew securely.
  • Insert bead bag for weight into head/body openings before final stuffing and finish stuffing; cinch and close openings tightly and weave in ends.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to mark the start of each round and keep track of increases and decreases.
  • 💡Insert bead bags or poly pellets for weight before closing the openings so you can position them correctly.
  • 💡Stuff gradually as you decrease to maintain a smooth shape and avoid lumps.
  • 💡Sew parts together with hidden knots and weave ends inside the piece for a tidy finish.
  • 💡If your stitch tension is loose and stuffing shows, use the same color yarn to fill small gaps before final assembly.

This cheerful Crochet Frog Door-Stopper is a fun mix of personality and purpose, designed to brighten any room while holding your door steady. With separate head pieces, a squishy weighted body and floppy limbs, it makes a great handmade gift and a playful home accent. Follow the complete round-by-round instructions and enjoy sewing the charming details together. 🐸🧶

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished frog measures roughly 10-12 inches long from head to tail when using worsted weight yarn and a G hook, though size will vary with yarn and tension.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will change the final size and the weight. If using bulkier yarn, use a larger hook and adjust stuffing and bead amounts accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; you should be comfortable working in rounds, doing increases and decreases, and basic assembly techniques.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crafters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary depending on experience, assembly time, and finishing details.