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Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern

Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern
4.4★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
2.3K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a charming anglerfish named SAM with a luminous lamp detail and decorative fins. The design uses multicolor and solid yarns, beads, and optional wire reinforcement to shape the fins and tail. Clear step-by-step rounds, diagrams, and assembly photos help you build the body, muzzle, jaws, fins, tail and teeth.

Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The finished toy measures approximately 18 x 35 cm depending on yarn and tension. Techniques include working in rounds, joining rays for fins, inserting wire frames, and assembling the mouth and teeth.

Why You'll Love This Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines playful design with technical detail that makes the toy truly unique. The angler lamp and fin rays give so much personality and let you experiment with beads and wire for structure. I enjoy how the pattern teaches methods to join rays and reinforce parts, which are techniques I use often. Making SAM feels like creating a tiny sculptural creature, and I always smile when I see the lamp glowing on my shelf.

Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how many ways you can customize this pattern to make it your own — try different colorways, metallic threads, or variegated yarn for a unique skin effect.

If you want a smaller keychain version, switch to thinner yarn and a smaller hook and skip wire reinforcement for portability.

To make a lamp that actually lights, use a small LED keychain bulb and route the wires through the body following the pattern's reinforcement notes; secure with tape and test before final assembly.

You can change the eye materials: toy eyes, bead eyes, embroidered eyes, or tiny polymer clay eyes create very different expressions.

Add outfits or accessories like a tiny crocheted hat, a scarf, or a removable lamp shade to add personality and gift appeal.

Try different bead placements and sizes for the body decoration; larger beads give a more dramatic look while seed beads add subtle shimmer.

I sometimes add a wire armature to the lamp stalk so it can be posed — wrap the wire carefully and cover it with yarn or tape to protect the yarn.

For a softer look, use a bulky yarn and a larger hook to create a plush, cuddly version that is more toy than lamp.

Experiment with stitch textures: work some rounds in BLO or FLO to create ridges or stripes across the body and fins.

If you like, embroider small details like scars, gills, or eyebrows to give SAM expressive personality and story.

You can also group several of these in different sizes and colors to make a whimsical family of anglerfish for display.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers during rounds can easily shift the center of the back; place and move a marker regularly to ensure the marker stays aligned with the center of the back. ✗ Overstuffing the finger-rays will distort the final shape of the fin; stuff finger-rays lightly with polyester and only stuff the wider sections as instructed. ✗ Forgetting to change yarns or to leave yarn tails when making rays can cause gaps during joining; when instructed not to cut yarn, continue working from the marker of the second ray. ✗ Not reinforcing the fin or tail with wire when recommended may cause them to flop; insert and wrap wire ends with insulation tape or plaster as instructed to keep shape and protect from sharp edges. ✗ Crocheting too loosely when making decreases creates holes in the fabric; use the shift stitch method and the illustrated decrease technique to keep fabric even and dense.

Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern

Make a whimsical Anglerfish named SAM with this detailed intermediate crochet pattern. You will create a stuffed fish with a working lamp effect, articulated fins, and decorative beads — perfect as a quirky toy or night lamp. The pattern includes step-by-step rounds, diagrams for joining rays, and reinforcement tips for wire frames so your fish keeps its shape.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Vita Brilliant Print and Vita Brilliant (45% wool, 55% acrylic, 380 m/100 g) - multicolor (2604) main color, approximately 1.5 skeins
  • 02
    Vita Brilliant solid color - green (4981) and other solid shades - approximately 0.5 skein
  • 03
    Vita Pelican (100% mercerized cotton; 330 m/50 g) - white (3951) for eyes and teeth - small leftovers
  • 04
    Vita Pelican cotton - yellow (3998), silver gray (3965), black (3952) - small leftovers for lamp details
  • 05
    Beads for decoration: 10/0 beads Flame Dark Topaz (Preciosa) and 6/0 beads Flame Turquoise (Preciosa) - quantities as desired

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 1.0 mm - 1.5 mm (pattern uses 1.5 mm for main parts; use smaller hooks for teeth)
  • 02
    Stuffing polyester
  • 03
    1.0-1.5 mm copper wire - approx. 6 m for fins (or more depending on reinforcement needs)
  • 04
    White fabric plaster or insulation tape to wrap wire ends
  • 05
    Toy eyes or beads (approx. 12 mm) - 2 pieces (or make eyes from yarn or polymer clay)
  • 06
    Transparent glue (optional, to glue eyes)
  • 07
    Beads for decoration and nylon thread and needle to sew them on
  • 08
    Wire cutter
  • 09
    Scissors
  • 10
    Sewing needle and yarn needle for finishing and assembly
  • 11
    Stitch markers
  • 12
    Pins for assembly

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Fins :

Side fin - Finger-rays A - 2 rays (A) :

1) Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring (6)

Round 2 :

2) 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3 :

3) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (15)

Round 4-5 :

4-5) sc in each st around (15)

Round 6 :

6) (3 sc, 2 sc tog) * 3 (12)

Round 7 :

7) (sc, 2 sc tog) * 4 (8)

Round 8-10 :

8-10) sc in each st around (8)

Info :

After having made one ray, cut off the yarn, but do not cut the yarn after having made the second ray. Continue working from the marker of the second ray.

Side fin - Finger-rays B - 2 rays (B) :

11) 2 sc in next st, 2 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st (12). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Info :

Join the rays together according to the diagram provided. When joining rays together you DO NOT have to make increases or decreases; follow the diagram and match increases to increases when needed. To avoid holes, draw up one more loop through the same place where you just made a sc, then draw a loop through the previous ray stitch to join three loops and sc through all three.

Side fin - Join rays :

Join the rays together according to the diagram: 4 sc around finger 'A' (make the 4th sc as described above to avoid holes), 6 sc around finger 'B', 6 sc around finger 'B', 8 sc around finger 'A'; turn work and continue in the opposite direction: 6 sc around finger 'B', 6 sc around finger 'B', 4 sc around finger 'A' (40).

Side fin - Continue shaping :

2) 2 sc tog, 16 sc, (2 sc tog) * 2, 16 sc, 2 sc tog (36) + shift st

Round 3 :

(16 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (34)

Round 4 :

(15 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (32) + shift st

Round 5 :

(14 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (30)

Round 6 :

(13 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (28) + shift st

Round 7 :

(12 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (26)

Round 8 :

(11 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (24) + shift st

Round 9 :

(10 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (22). Change the yarn into the multicolor yarn.

Round 10 :

(9 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (20) + shift st

Round 11-13 :

11-13) sc in each st around (20) + shift st

Round 14 :

(9 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2 (22)

Round 15 :

(10 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2 (24). Fasten off and weave in the end. Stuff the finger-rays with polyester (do not stuff too tightly!). Do not stuff the fin itself.

Info :

Reinforce the fin with at least 120 cm of wire for one fin. Insert the even parts of the wire into each finger so the ends coming out of the fin are even. One end of the wire will make the frame of the fishing line and the other end will form the spine of the fish.

Lower fin - Finger-rays A - 2 rays :

1) Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring (6)

Round 2 :

2) 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3 :

3) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (15)

Round 4-5 :

4-5) sc in each st around (15)

Round 6 :

6) (3 sc, 2 sc tog) * 3 (12)

Round 7 :

7) (sc, 2 sc tog) * 4 (8)

Round 8-9 :

8-9) sc in each st around (8)

Info :

After having made one ray, cut off the yarn and weave in the end, but do not cut the yarn after having made the second ray. Continue working from the marker of the second ray.

Lower fin - Finger-rays B - 1 ray :

10) 2 sc in next at, 2 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st (12). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Join lower fin rays :

Join the rays together according to the diagram: Join rays B to finger A as shown. When joining rays together you DO NOT have to make increases. Follow the diagram and join using the technique to avoid holes.

Dorsal fin - Finger-rays A - 1 ray, B - 1 ray, C - 2 rays, D - 3 rays, E - 1 ray :

1) Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring (6)

Round 2 :

2) 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3 :

3) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (15)

Round 4-5 :

4-5) sc in each st around (15)

Round 6 :

6) (3 sc, 2 sc tog) * 3 (12)

Round 7 :

7) (sc, 2 sc tog) * 4 (8)

Rounds 8-12 (A) :

8-12) sc in each st around (8)

Rounds 8-16 (B) :

8-16) sc in each st around (8)

Rounds 8-15 (C) :

8-15) sc in each st around (8)

Rounds 8-13 (D) :

8-13) sc in each st around (8)

Rounds 8-12 (E) :

8-12) sc in each st around (8). Fasten off and weave in the end where indicated.

Info :

Do not cut the yarn for some rays where instructed; continue working from the marker of that ray and follow the table to finish and fasten off as described.

Join rays of dorsal fin :

Join the rays together according to the diagram: 4 sc around finger 'A', 6 sc around finger 'B', 6 sc around finger 'C', 6 sc around finger 'C', 5 sc around finger 'D' (with increases where shown); then turn and work back: 6 sc around finger 'C', 6 sc around finger 'C', 6 sc around finger 'B', 4 sc around finger 'A' (58). Then continue joining as the following instructions show for larger joins to reach counts shown in diagrams.

Tail - Finger-rays B - 4 rays, C - 1 ray, A - 2 rays (make A after B and C) :

1) Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring (6)

Round 2 :

2) 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3 :

3) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (15)

Round 4-5 :

4-5) sc in each st around (15)

Round 6 :

6) (3 sc, 2 sc tog) * 3 (12)

Round 7 :

7) (sc, 2 sc tog) * 4 (8)

Rounds 8-11 :

8-11) sc in each st around (8)

Round 13 (C) :

13) 2 sc in next st, 2 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st (12). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Join rays of tail :

Join the rays according to the diagram: 4 sc around finger 'A', 6 sc around finger 'C', 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc around finger 'B', turn and continue in opposite direction: 6 sc around finger 'C', 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc around finger 'A' (30). Continue with increases and rounds: (2 sc in next st, 13 sc) * 2 (30), (2 sc in next st, 14 sc) * 2 (32), (2 sc in next st, 15 sc) * 2 (34). Fasten off and weave in end. Do not insert wire at this step. Stuff finger-rays lightly.

— Body :

Lower jaw :

Make one with multicolor yarn and 1.5 mm crochet hook following the instructions. The marker goes along the side edge of the jaw. You do not have to change its position.

Round 1 :

1) Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring (6)

Round 2 :

2) 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3 :

3) (sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (18)

Round 4 :

4) sc, 2 sc in next st, (2 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, sc (24)

Round 5 :

5) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (30)

Round 6 :

6) 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, (4 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 2 sc (36)

Round 7 :

7) (5 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (42)

Round 8 :

8) 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, (6 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 3 sc (48)

Round 9 :

9) (7 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (54)

Round 10 :

10) 4 sc, 2 sc in next st, (8 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 4 sc (60)

Round 11 :

11) (9 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (66)

Round 12 :

12) 5 sc, 2 sc in next st, (10 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 5 sc (72)

Round 13 :

13) (11 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (78)

Round 14 :

14) 6 sc, 2 sc in next st, (12 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 6 sc (84)

Round 15 :

15) (13 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (90)

Round 16 :

16) sc in each st around (90)

Round 17 :

17) 7 sc, 2 sc in next st, (14 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 7 sc (96)

Round 18 :

18) sc in each st around (96)

Round 19 :

19) (15 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (102)

Round 20 :

20) sc in each st around (102)

Round 21 :

21) 8 sc, 2 sc in next st, (16 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 8 sc (108)

Round 22 :

22) sc in each st around (108)

Round 23 :

23) (35 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (111)

Round 24 :

24) sc in each st around (111)

Round 25 :

25) 18 sc, 2 sc in next st, (36 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2, 18 sc (114)

Round 26 :

26) sc in each st around (114)

Round 27 :

27) (37 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (117)

Round 28 :

28) sc in each st around (117)

Round 29 :

29) 19 sc, 2 sc in next st, (38 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2, 19 sc (120)

Round 30 :

30) sc in each st around (120)

Round 31 :

31) (39 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (123)

Round 32 :

32) sc in each st around (123)

Round 33 :

33) 20 sc, 2 sc in next st, (40 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2, 20 sc (126)

Round 34-35 :

34-35) sc in each st around (126)

Round 36 :

36) (41 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (129)

Round 37 :

37) sc in each st around (129)

Round 38 :

38) 21 sc, 2 sc in next st, (42 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2, 21 sc (132)

Round 39 :

39) ((2 sc in next st) * 2, 64 sc) * 2 (136)

Round 40 :

40) sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 66 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 65 sc (140)

Round 41 :

41) 2 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 68 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 66 sc (144)

Round 42 :

42) 3 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 70 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 67 sc (148), ss. Fasten off and weave in the end.

Muzzle :

Make one with multicolor yarn and 1.5 mm crochet hook following the instructions. The marker goes along the back. You do not need to change the position of the marker before you start joining the muzzle and the jaw.

Muzzle Round 1 :

1) Make a MR, 7 sc into the ring (7)

Round 2 :

2) 2 sc in each st around (14)

Round 3 :

3) (sc, 2 sc in next st) * 7 (21)

Round 4 :

4) sc, 2 sc in next st, (2 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6, sc (28)

Round 5 :

5) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 7 (35)

Round 6 :

6) 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, (4 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6, 2 sc (42)

Round 7 :

7) 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, (6 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 3 sc (48)

Round 8 :

8) (7 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (54)

Round 9 :

9) 4 sc, 2 sc in next st, (8 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 4 sc (60)

Round 10 :

10) (9 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (66)

Round 11 :

11) 5 sc, 2 sc in next st, (10 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 5 sc (72)

Round 12 :

12) (11 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (78)

Round 13 :

13) 6 sc, 2 sc in next st, (12 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 6 sc (84)

Round 14 :

14) sc in each st around (84)

Round 15 :

15) (13 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (90)

Round 16 :

16) sc in each st around (90)

Round 17 :

17) 7 sc, 2 sc in next st, (14 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 7 sc (96)

How to assemble muzzle and lower jaw :

Fold the lower jaw to place the increases in opposite corners. There are 72 sts on the inner side of the jaw and 76 sts on the outer side of the jaw (total 148 sts). Turn the muzzle so that the marker is in the center of the future back; the back comprises 57 sts, the inner part of the muzzle hiding under the lower jaw comprises 72 sts. Start working from this marker and change the position of the marker from time to time by making shift sts.

Join muzzle and lower jaw - Step 1 :

1) 28 sc around the muzzle, then insert the hook into 29th st of the muzzle and between 1st and 2nd sts of the lower jaw (near the first increase), join the inner part of the lower jaw and the muzzle, make 72 sc inserting the hook through the sts of the muzzle and the jaw at the same time, 29 sc around the muzzle till the marker (129).

Join muzzle and lower jaw - Step 2 :

2) 28 sc from the marker around the muzzle, insert the hook between 1st and 2nd sts near the increase of the lower jaw, 76 sc around the outer part of the lower jaw, 29 sc around the muzzle till the marker (133).

Continue joining and outer contour :

Continue working around the outer contour only (muzzle and the outer side of the lower jaw). Change the marker position as you go to keep the center of the back aligned. Follow the rounds and decreases listed in the pattern to shape the head and jaw.

Assembly Instructions

  • Join the muzzle and lower jaw by crocheting around both pieces together as shown: 28 sc around the muzzle, insert the hook into the 29th stitch and join with the inner lower jaw, make 72 sc inserting the hook through sts of muzzle and jaw at the same time, then 29 sc around the muzzle (129).
  • Reinforce fins and tail by inserting copper wire into the rays; fold rays and insert wire ends so they come out evenly, then wrap wire ends with insulation tape to avoid sharp edges.
  • Attach side fins and dorsal fin to the body by aligning with the center marker on the back; pin in place and sew securely with yarn needle, matching stitches and decorative beads as reference.
  • Make two sets of teeth and position them inside the jaw; secure the teeth frame with wire if desired and sew teeth in place so the mouth forms a toothy smile.
  • Sew eyes or beads into the eye sockets, using cotton embroidery floss for details; if gluing eyes, use transparent glue and allow to dry before final assembly.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of rounds and the central back marker, adjusting the marker position with shift stitches to keep the center aligned.
  • 💡Stuff finger-rays lightly and do not stuff the fin itself; overstuffing will distort the fin shape.
  • 💡Wrap all wire ends with insulation tape or white fabric plaster to prevent injuries and to protect the yarn from cutting.
  • 💡Weave in ends as you go and fasten off where instructed to keep pieces tidy and easy to join.
  • 💡When joining rays and parts, follow the diagrams precisely and do not improvise increases unless you are confident with shaping.

This anglerfish SAM is a delightful and slightly spooky companion with a luminous lamp detail and whimsical fins. Make it as a unique night-lamp ornament or a playful decorative toy for your shelf. The pattern is full of clever joins, wire reinforcement tips, and assembly photos to guide you through every step. 🧶✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 18 x 35 cm when using the recommended yarn and hook size; size may vary with different yarns and tension.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size and the amount of wire reinforcement needed; choose an appropriate hook for your yarn and adjust wire thickness accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and assumes familiarity with working in rounds, increases, decreases, working in BLO or FLO, and basic assembly techniques.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 12-15 hours over several sessions, though time may vary based on experience, customization, and assembly complexity.